czwartek, 30 sierpnia 2012

Petitcoat for Round Gown

I never see any extant petitcoat for the chemise dress or round gown dated  late 18th century. Maybe it was sewn directly to the top of the dress? I find the high waist petticoat with shoulder straps and  has decided to sew these fashion after reading interesting post  from blog Two Nerdy History Girls. But I don't know it is extant petticoat or not and which musem is located or maybe is in private collection. 

Petticoat © Oregon Regency Society

Another petticoat from a Warsaw National Museum from the fashion catalog. This petticoat has a bodice and  was made ​​of Indian cotton gauze beautifully embroidered with white work. The petticoat dating from late 18th century or early 19th century. Now is very distroyed but still retained the shape, and it is possible to restore. 


In catalogue we can read about: 
The high - waisted chemise made of white Indian cotton gauze. The bodice is cut in four gored pieces [ I can see 4 gore, for me it is 3 gore two for the sides and one is triangular in the middle front bodice?]; it has a low - cut square neckline and narrow shoulders straps. The gored skir is trimmed at the hem with a pinked ruche of white silk satin. The gores of the bodice and skirt are emphaised with embroiderd floral spays. The front bodice and the skirt along the hem are embroidered with large floral motifs. 
© Fashionable World of the 18th century, Ewa Orlinska - Mianowska, MNW
 Chemise with no alterations and never exhibited.
I decided to sew two petticoats one with the bodice and one without. The bodice of round gown has a lining and I do not need a bodice petticoat but only with the straps.

piątek, 24 sierpnia 2012

1790 corset from Jill Salen's book


Yesterday I finished one of the two corset. Here is transitional corset from Jill Salen's book. It is my interpretation of this type of corset from late 18th century and the beginning of the 19th century. Corset was sewn entirely by hand. I have made a few changes here.
The top layer is white linen and next two layers is white cotton and cotton canvas (inside) and the linnins is beige cotton. I wanted to used some scraps. It was completely hand stitched with silk and cotton white thread. For lacing holes I used twisted thread. Bonnig
has always been a problem - I used bamboo stick. My alterations is I changed the type of schoulder straples - It was sewing by hand without two lacing holes in front and I wanted corset with binding. I cannot understand how working non bias cutting tape binding on the edge of corset, so I must used bias cut tape. Jill Salen and Linda Baumgarten in her book Costume close -up both mentioned that in 18th century not exsiting yet bias cut. Corset will be wearing with the round gown and I wanted to sewing round gown from Tidens Tøj collection with a petticoat.




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