tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-83156847094865672012024-03-06T06:05:37.981+01:00atelier polonaiseatelierpolonaisehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12221915032674869681noreply@blogger.comBlogger231125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8315684709486567201.post-335445036830954032022-07-28T10:24:00.004+02:002022-07-28T10:44:20.434+02:00Suknia haftowana 1798-1805. Embroidery empire dress 1798-1805<p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;"> </span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: times;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8kyf1i-wT0ombwyRB8KjOBWq9x2JyC095U7TGk4eUg-eSm_UosgIixGO8pgeVlHAOOT-Mn96ej_kn4myJP8NBGjWbLR6rthGNKY5bPpTJdLDdOQCciTwqsovrjHX_fVO5v2Z_6fYkAQF2MUDFybvRTlC_8WiR81MyUcHPta613ALcIAgCMcF9S_gA/s5312/20220618_094507.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2988" data-original-width="5312" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8kyf1i-wT0ombwyRB8KjOBWq9x2JyC095U7TGk4eUg-eSm_UosgIixGO8pgeVlHAOOT-Mn96ej_kn4myJP8NBGjWbLR6rthGNKY5bPpTJdLDdOQCciTwqsovrjHX_fVO5v2Z_6fYkAQF2MUDFybvRTlC_8WiR81MyUcHPta613ALcIAgCMcF9S_gA/s320/20220618_094507.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></div><p></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;"><b>Pierwszy post po bardzo długiej przerwie, </b></span><span style="font-family: times;"><b>zauważyłam, że przybyło mi trochę czytelników/obserwujących, pojawiły się też nowe komentarze, przepraszam, że pozostały bez odpowiedzi, postaram się nadrobić zaległości, mam nadzieję, że kolejne posty będą pojawiać się częściej i że będą także interesujące. Jestem także obecna na instagramie "chiaranzana". </b></span></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;"><b><br /></b></span></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;"><b>Pozdrawiam serdecznie</b></span></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;"><b>dr. Aleksandra Kajdańska </b></span></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;">W 2013 roku przy okazji pisania doktoratu miałam przyjemność zbadania kilka zachowanych obiektów kostiumologicznych z Muzeum Narodowego w Warszawie. </span></p>
<p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;">Tam też w oko wpadła mi piękna suknia z charakterystycznym haftem z końca XVIII wieku i dopiero teraz udało mi się ją odtworzyć, rozłożyć na części konstrukcję sukni i wykonać pełnych haft na materiale. Nie było moim zamiarem robić wiernej kopii w wyglądzie, praca nad danym obiektem jest dla mnie pracą detektywistyczną i polega na lepszym poznaniu zasad ówczesnego krawiectwa, poznania nowocześniejszych metod szycia tamtego okresu jak i próby określenia dokładniejszego datowania danego obiektu. </span></p><div><br /></div><div><div>I<span style="font-family: times;">n 2013, while writing my PhD, I had the pleasure of examining several surviving costume objects from the National Museum in Warsaw. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: times;">It was there that a beautiful gown with distinctive embroidery from the late 18th century caught my eye, and it was only now that I was able to reproduce it, dissecting the construction of the gown and making full embroidery on the fabric. It was not my intention to make a faithful copy in appearance, working on an object is detective work for me and involves learning more about the principles of tailoring at the time, learning more modern sewing methods of the period as well as trying to determine a more accurate dating of the object in question. </span></div><div><br /></div></div><div> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTFVM-1PFFlaoKTfSb9AMX_6yP7nSlH8_1El5FGnhXvUtiugGhhluS6Rup7cJK6enkbwSHHW_rKEwPK1bigWfSVZTi0rzI413cZ3U5ip1Z6071SXE3gx0HBA5_wJrXBiL5U9hw_d1fnzR9Yd0x90uO6R8ecPDAJzFV5Apfx25h1iomU6veJEdh-itP/s5312/20210424_133518.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5312" data-original-width="2988" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTFVM-1PFFlaoKTfSb9AMX_6yP7nSlH8_1El5FGnhXvUtiugGhhluS6Rup7cJK6enkbwSHHW_rKEwPK1bigWfSVZTi0rzI413cZ3U5ip1Z6071SXE3gx0HBA5_wJrXBiL5U9hw_d1fnzR9Yd0x90uO6R8ecPDAJzFV5Apfx25h1iomU6veJEdh-itP/w180-h320/20210424_133518.jpg" title="Zdjęcie/picture from MNW catalog." width="180" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Zdjęcie//Photo from the MNW catalog</td></tr></tbody></table><br /></div><div>
<p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 15px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></p>
<p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;">W katalogu muzealnym suknia jest następująco opisana: </span></p>
<p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 15px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></p>
<p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;">Suknia, koniec 1800 - 1810</span></p>
<p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;">Noszona w Polsce, fason europejski</span></p>
<p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 15px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></p>
<p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;">Wymiary: dł. Sukni z przodu 135 </span></p>
<p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;">Dł. Sukni z tyłu 152</span></p>
<p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;">Obwód dołu 320</span></p>
<p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;">Wys.stanika 22</span></p>
<p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;">Dł. Rękawów 36.5 cm</span></p>
<p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 15px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></p>
<p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;">Bawełna, muślin, haft przędza wełnianą czarną, czerwoną, brązową, oliwkową, ściegiem atłasowym. </span></p>
<p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;">Szycie ręczne</span></p>
<p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;">Nr inw. SZT 2638 (192546 MNW)</span></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;">Opis: </span></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 15px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;">Suknia z białego muślinu, długa, haftowana w ukośne pasy, złożone z siatki rombowej i z rozrzuconych ulistnionych gałązek. Stanik odcinany, podwyższony, ściągany pod biustem, zebrany w drobne fałdy. Dekolt głęboko wycięty, ściągany sznureczkiem z przodu. Rękawy krótkie, wąskie, z tyłu wszyte głęboko.Spódnica doszyta do stanika, z niewielkim trenem. Tren u góry z tyłu zaznaczony przez dwie kokardki. Stanik z tyłu wykrojony w ośli grzbiet, na całości podszyty białym płótnem, z przodu przechodzącym w sznurowany gorsecik. </span></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 15px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;">Stan zachowania: nie przerabiana.</span></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;">Historia: przyjęta do MNW w 1946 roku (nr rew. 1479) ze składnicy w Henrykowie. </span></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;">Sadząc po numerze 12:98, pochodzi ze zbiorów Kunstgewerbemuseum we Wrocławiu. </span></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 15px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;">Wystawy: nie wystawiana.</span></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;">Bibliografia: nie publikowana. </span></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;">Museum catalogue description (dimensions giving in centimeters): </span></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;">Dress, 1800-1810</span></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;">Made and worn in Silesia</span></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;">Length:front 135, back 152, width all round hem 320, bodice length 22, sleeve length 36, 5</span></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;">Cotton muslin. Embroidered with coloured wool (black, red, brown, olive), worked in satin stitch. </span></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;">Hand- sewn.</span></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;">Inv. No. SZT 2638(192546 MNW)</span></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;">Description: </span></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;">Made from white muslin, embroidered in oblique stripes composed of diaper pattern and floral sprays. The waistline is high, the bodice gathered under the bust. The low-cut round neckline gathered with a drawstring tied at the front. The short narrow sleeves are set in armholes that are cut very deep at the back. The back bodice is cut a diamond - shaped centre panel. The skirt is attached to the bodice, with a short train headed by two bows. The bodice is lined in white canvas; at the front the lining extends into an under-bodice. </span></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;">State of preservation: no alterations.</span></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;">History: in 1946 transferred (receipt No. 14679) from the museum storage facility at Henryków. The former inventory number (12:98) suggests that it comes from the collection of the former Kunstgewerbemuseum in Wroclaw (Breslau).</span></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;">Exhibitions: not exhibited.</span></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;">Bibliography: not published. </span></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;">Suknia 1798 - 1800 /Gown 1798 - 1800</span></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcl2oVDXqmDoRoixOSX3K1OBuhW7-Np-UZOS2MVqgDKsREfwKdu5o-ToY3_HsoTGhxajebw5FILLFdypBZgdbynf3G8Cj_F-voFFz1dHfqscD3wA6HzBtYAtsnbUWqhDPKoTf8ELdO1Xr3JK0R6ZGhIZtI-yZyCwchuHltoss7Rlcd8169C18egkc3/s5312/20220618_182407.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2988" data-original-width="5312" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcl2oVDXqmDoRoixOSX3K1OBuhW7-Np-UZOS2MVqgDKsREfwKdu5o-ToY3_HsoTGhxajebw5FILLFdypBZgdbynf3G8Cj_F-voFFz1dHfqscD3wA6HzBtYAtsnbUWqhDPKoTf8ELdO1Xr3JK0R6ZGhIZtI-yZyCwchuHltoss7Rlcd8169C18egkc3/s320/20220618_182407.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tył/back with the characteristic construction</td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span><p></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 15px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;">Podczas badania sukni mogłam zrobić notatki i zdjęcia, niestety zdjęć nie mogę rozpowszechniać co zawsze zastrzega sobie muzeum. Także do zobrazowania umieszczę tylko zdjęcia zamieszczone w katalogu oraz wykonane podczas pracy nad ubiorem. </span></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;">Jedną z pierwszych były notatki i zrobienie wykroju oraz ustalenie w jaki sposób ubiór został uszyty. Najważniejszym elementem jednak był materiał, który musiałam sobie sama „stworzyć”. Suknia została uszyta z haftowanego muślinu. Sam materiał był w całości haftowany (kupon) i następnie wycięto z niego poszczególne elementy sukni. </span><span style="font-family: times;"> </span></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 15px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;">During the examination of the dress I was able to take notes and photos, unfortunately I cannot distribute the photos which the museum always stipulates. So to illustrate, I will only include the photos included in the catalogue and those taken while working on the dress. </span></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;">One of the first things was to take notes and make the pattern and work out how the garment was sewn. The most important element, however, was the fabric, which I had to 'create' myself. The dress was sewn from embroidered muslin. The fabric itself was embroidered in its entirety (coupon) and then the individual elements of the dress were cut out of it. </span></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;"> </span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: times;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW72SFo7IM4vJFKpsm3anc0_S5LJlUWXYQGE0jl8cJTkOcO6loJ7uhKX4z72xxmQOD8y6FPiPLoewlmiyuZy1ISvJO82l9vzbRgh1Ci7V7HHVg_jnfi5WOYehDqyTni4Iyn0xVt-LoFEnTe-xfPcin-sR0kQ-iDWr7WSvVU3X8ecxE1TmHxifCqkiS/s5312/20211010_112923.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5312" data-original-width="2988" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW72SFo7IM4vJFKpsm3anc0_S5LJlUWXYQGE0jl8cJTkOcO6loJ7uhKX4z72xxmQOD8y6FPiPLoewlmiyuZy1ISvJO82l9vzbRgh1Ci7V7HHVg_jnfi5WOYehDqyTni4Iyn0xVt-LoFEnTe-xfPcin-sR0kQ-iDWr7WSvVU3X8ecxE1TmHxifCqkiS/s320/20211010_112923.jpg" width="180" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span><p></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg32WA2F25aWV_FZA2_nENPChaKF8A4VSph4Z7ZkdA7ivCQ-6siYG8JvGpp4AkzL1PhJ-1DEBNwJTpIZc-oXtMIVLauoaVCtzrZ0JRga-_5TA4ffSwIVKhsHfQmtdqZFT00CDS2nao14V4supPJRUqlAf5WVm9eVU4iBHJz-NgzeN_l2kSlyz98t3mz/s1167/629ba06d5ef4069082d0e5a9b61bd55b--fashion-plates-anonymous.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1167" data-original-width="736" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg32WA2F25aWV_FZA2_nENPChaKF8A4VSph4Z7ZkdA7ivCQ-6siYG8JvGpp4AkzL1PhJ-1DEBNwJTpIZc-oXtMIVLauoaVCtzrZ0JRga-_5TA4ffSwIVKhsHfQmtdqZFT00CDS2nao14V4supPJRUqlAf5WVm9eVU4iBHJz-NgzeN_l2kSlyz98t3mz/s320/629ba06d5ef4069082d0e5a9b61bd55b--fashion-plates-anonymous.jpg" width="202" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fashion illustration from "Costume Parisien" l'an 6</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span><p></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;">Podobne wzory geometryzujące, abstrakcyjne wzory pojawiają się na sukniach od mniej więcej 1798 roku co można prześledzić na ówczesnych ilustracjach zamieszczanych w żurnalach mody i życia codziennego. Po skopiowaniu wzoru geometrycznego, który przedstawia ukośną kratę, trzeba było ustalić kolory nici do haftu. Tutaj wykonałam kilka prób na różnych materiałach batyst i muślin oraz nici wełniane i mulinę. Po kilku próbach wybrałam batyst, który dla mnie jest wygodniejszy i szybszy dla haftu łańcuszkowego oraz zrezygnowałam z nici wełnianych niedostępnych w Polsce a te które są nie nadają się do tego haftu. Kolejnym ornamentem jest roślinność - gałązki liści dębu oraz listki wydaje się, że lipy. </span></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 15px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;">Similar geometric, abstract patterns have been appearing on dresses since around 1798, which can be traced in the illustrations featured in the fashion and daily life journals of the time. After copying the geometric pattern, which depicts a diagonal check, it was necessary to determine the colours of the embroidery threads. Here I made several attempts on different materials batiste and muslin, as well as wool thread and moulin. After several attempts, I chose batiste, which I find more comfortable and faster for chain embroidery, and I gave up woollen threads that are not available in Poland and those that are, are not suitable for this embroidery. Another ornament is vegetation - oak leaf twigs and lime tree leaves it seems. </span></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi321_L1b9gCPy36HkAzwJVEs0TLeymk5SrOmJx0JTNRrfe9n2cTrBDkNvsOhJsZ9MIdi7_1fYPBQvZnNUIbLOwisy9ZU8K5lHYpMQHT_cZstGAH31es1XeMm86NtX25w69Lw0zuBPlX14YMj1Dt7oKi6WzDY6L29sE-LK1gXxea8NDjbRq3bvDO12d/s5312/20210317_164845.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5312" data-original-width="2988" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi321_L1b9gCPy36HkAzwJVEs0TLeymk5SrOmJx0JTNRrfe9n2cTrBDkNvsOhJsZ9MIdi7_1fYPBQvZnNUIbLOwisy9ZU8K5lHYpMQHT_cZstGAH31es1XeMm86NtX25w69Lw0zuBPlX14YMj1Dt7oKi6WzDY6L29sE-LK1gXxea8NDjbRq3bvDO12d/s320/20210317_164845.jpg" width="180" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tył/back construction</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span><p></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiYTaI4AyjfefOmzN_As57PglXaFdOMz9NatGiVBioauAOFniyUH1tGul_EmC-Gz_Nhafb25HLTha8AlPCQVxUdFxAtwabOEvr2vnKzAZV1iQm1yu1EIe5v7a8FZBtVNVSUAIu8L7knIEM7HsWz-HCe-0yacdrH5Ieq5E637wylBGRR4BfD2sCHNxi/s5312/20220618_182413.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2988" data-original-width="5312" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiYTaI4AyjfefOmzN_As57PglXaFdOMz9NatGiVBioauAOFniyUH1tGul_EmC-Gz_Nhafb25HLTha8AlPCQVxUdFxAtwabOEvr2vnKzAZV1iQm1yu1EIe5v7a8FZBtVNVSUAIu8L7knIEM7HsWz-HCe-0yacdrH5Ieq5E637wylBGRR4BfD2sCHNxi/s320/20220618_182413.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Asymmetrical back bodice construction</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span><p></p><div><br /></div><div><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;">Kolejnym etapem była konstrukcja sukni. To na jej podstawie można mniej więcej określić datowanie obiektu. W tym przypadku wskazuje na to wykrój pleców stanika w katalogu określony jako „ ośli grzbiet” (termin zapożyczony z architektury). Charakterystyczny dla tego czasu jest bardzo mocna wyprofilowane plecy stanika, które tworzą półokrągłe linie na środku i łączą się pózniej z małymi wypustkami ( w katalogu kokardkami). Środkowe linie zrobione zostały wykonane jako zakładki jest ich w sumie 5. Stanik na plecach ma trzy hafty w formie liści dębu po środku oraz liści lipy po bokach. </span></p>
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<p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;">The next stage was the construction of the dress. It is from this that the dating of the object can be more or less determined. In this case, this is indicated by the cut of the back of the bodice in the catalogue referred to as a 'donkey's back' (a term borrowed from architecture). Characteristic of this </span><span style="font-family: times;">time is the very strongly shaped back of the bra, which forms semi-circular lines in the middle and is later joined by small tabs (in the catalogue bows). The back of the bra has three embroideries in the form of oak leaves in the centre and lime leaves on the sides. </span></p></div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjudCq558Heg27x2W-TlKftCeMcXycYhJODY-3pr_7uN8Ql0DEV6fa2VCdFvktWOFkgDCQBEed-bk-uzJ-tAAcwK-n0xzoULiVrjTDE25BvPZ2HvVHwxUuPyi-vnYpqL8HZUUGI1Z6f-3zMiz44ERclmuDrewCeV4EAbfuORZ39ALTOHWSIKyXIdVkE/s5312/20150101_185839.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5312" data-original-width="2988" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjudCq558Heg27x2W-TlKftCeMcXycYhJODY-3pr_7uN8Ql0DEV6fa2VCdFvktWOFkgDCQBEed-bk-uzJ-tAAcwK-n0xzoULiVrjTDE25BvPZ2HvVHwxUuPyi-vnYpqL8HZUUGI1Z6f-3zMiz44ERclmuDrewCeV4EAbfuORZ39ALTOHWSIKyXIdVkE/s320/20150101_185839.jpg" width="180" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rękawy/ sleeves construction</td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqerUnS6sJ_9WCe9-MN3J4ydLYabyJYjkbd25fIjR6uyv3lWDnd6CqVWYLCRZk1_0bUEYQs3Y_vI27rox9zAt4zNzjR6JQsgwIVKwe4K1qW_CErFWBIZjB73ADmOEi4HMzaevH-OZN-aMirrW8wJUdW--0TTWs5FCa7-KsiZRLBDIBqzjWS6bH2fKk/s5312/20220618_182558.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5312" data-original-width="2988" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqerUnS6sJ_9WCe9-MN3J4ydLYabyJYjkbd25fIjR6uyv3lWDnd6CqVWYLCRZk1_0bUEYQs3Y_vI27rox9zAt4zNzjR6JQsgwIVKwe4K1qW_CErFWBIZjB73ADmOEi4HMzaevH-OZN-aMirrW8wJUdW--0TTWs5FCa7-KsiZRLBDIBqzjWS6bH2fKk/s320/20220618_182558.jpg" width="180" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Skrzydełka" /Back "wings"</td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwDfCCBHWGG5n3-4lK4r4Qtk8GeLLp124jsH4syUbp1feybbBht4P8STZyrfmRBJWj9ND0sxuSO9Bnv3Y4H4wXL4vf2vmU9gP2MpDot4llK0-l5cDImHQar608YmlR52dYYvrqrEq_eeqtK7TTgX7BwPfo6nxyboaH0_F-HAc9FDF8vyZvzVgZtZ21/s5312/20220617_111854.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5312" data-original-width="2988" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwDfCCBHWGG5n3-4lK4r4Qtk8GeLLp124jsH4syUbp1feybbBht4P8STZyrfmRBJWj9ND0sxuSO9Bnv3Y4H4wXL4vf2vmU9gP2MpDot4llK0-l5cDImHQar608YmlR52dYYvrqrEq_eeqtK7TTgX7BwPfo6nxyboaH0_F-HAc9FDF8vyZvzVgZtZ21/s320/20220617_111854.jpg" width="180" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Przód/ Front construction</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div><br /></div><div><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;">Konstrukcja tyłu wymaga bardzo głębokiego wszycia rękawów. Główka rękawa musiała być modelowana na modelce aby dokładnie uformować gładki rękaw z tyłu. Z przodu stanik jest ściągany tasiemkami (przy dekolcie oraz pod biustem). </span><span style="font-family: times;">W podszyciu stanika jest ukryte wiązanie, które u mnie funkcjonuje przy pomocy szpilek, nie chciałam robić dziurek</span><span style="font-family: times;"> do sznurowania. Hafty na rękawach są asymetryczne co wskazuje, że materiał był już przed szyciem wyhaftowany i krawiec tylko układał poszczególne elementy. Asymetryczność rękawów jest interesująca bo zakłada się, że każdy rękaw musi tak samo wyglądać. Tutaj widać, ze zastosowanie tego daje dość ciekawy efekt. Rękawy sukni są krótkie chociaż marzą mi się aby dorobić jeszcze długie wtedy efekt asymetrii haftu jeszcze bardziej będzie efektowny. </span></p>
<p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;">Dół sukni haftowałam przez ok. pół roku, na powierzchni materiału 3.20 cm. Po raz pierwszy zrobiłam do niego tren, który jest dość mały. </span></p>
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<p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;">The construction of the back requires the sleeves to be sewn in very deeply. The head of the sleeve had to be modelled on the model to accurately form a smooth sleeve at the back. At the front, the bra is drawn together with ribbons (at the neckline and under the bust). There is a hidden binding in the lining of the bra, which in my case works with pins, I didn't want to make holes for lacing. The embroidery on the sleeves is asymmetrical, which indicates that the fabric was already embroidered before sewing and the tailor just arranged the individual pieces. The asymmetry of the sleeves is interesting because it is assumed that every sleeve must look the same. Here you can see that the application of this produces quite an interesting effect. The sleeves of the dress are short, although I dream of making them even longer so that the asymmetrical effect of the embroidery is even more impressive. </span></p>
<p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;">I embroidered the bottom of the dress for about six months, on a fabric area of 3.20 cm. For the first time I made a train for it, which is quite small. </span></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvWRufxOK_me-CVlKPb7YwcrCbPYNDllhmoC-qu6AqDZnexBcB9QPTTvJRbTKz5ETz4ONvaY7CDRKK4PyxV_iRCtkZT_lAZ1Ed2WARLRgriTeEL7bsZf-QkKVoGJd82zgNqK5RzkSa2TV93vaWNafnBdsGtmg5nHoyl5oUYvGAN8zjlLtDHkF43zNb/s5312/20220618_182215.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5312" data-original-width="2988" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvWRufxOK_me-CVlKPb7YwcrCbPYNDllhmoC-qu6AqDZnexBcB9QPTTvJRbTKz5ETz4ONvaY7CDRKK4PyxV_iRCtkZT_lAZ1Ed2WARLRgriTeEL7bsZf-QkKVoGJd82zgNqK5RzkSa2TV93vaWNafnBdsGtmg5nHoyl5oUYvGAN8zjlLtDHkF43zNb/s320/20220618_182215.jpg" width="180" /></a></div><br /><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWwZU6eooHU5hvidMve7Ni2LdwxqPrNGvTBWtb3nt1u7H39uCnd7AJfyxSvSlEZ7Txb1V_0e5yBh_uOeY3HwMeehG0MDbUCBq03ZjKWkRAV76jKG3MZBvP9FX8PfUozadpk1dwLLGcK_DpvQeLIoRdkWtaIwWQ7e6kSgIZJ3CgXnIb6OuozQKSP233/s5312/20220618_182459.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5312" data-original-width="2988" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWwZU6eooHU5hvidMve7Ni2LdwxqPrNGvTBWtb3nt1u7H39uCnd7AJfyxSvSlEZ7Txb1V_0e5yBh_uOeY3HwMeehG0MDbUCBq03ZjKWkRAV76jKG3MZBvP9FX8PfUozadpk1dwLLGcK_DpvQeLIoRdkWtaIwWQ7e6kSgIZJ3CgXnIb6OuozQKSP233/s320/20220618_182459.jpg" width="180" /></a></div><br /><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi597-DBW0Xa1CR8vJYVlQxnk9TN3cX2bHVOiDPPpgzkmaowR1y61qthbh0MLzUNPRn4doS_Xqjrhic6GDNIWA0jaC4jzPbg3msMu8Zx__bVq1u1PB_lfaedsQ9U6lmIRnqXZL5QLg3CS3y2l7Mw0r46kqy5QUrLSgSwm1AmWyTHY8e-z21srr4fmGj/s5312/20220618_182505.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5312" data-original-width="2988" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi597-DBW0Xa1CR8vJYVlQxnk9TN3cX2bHVOiDPPpgzkmaowR1y61qthbh0MLzUNPRn4doS_Xqjrhic6GDNIWA0jaC4jzPbg3msMu8Zx__bVq1u1PB_lfaedsQ9U6lmIRnqXZL5QLg3CS3y2l7Mw0r46kqy5QUrLSgSwm1AmWyTHY8e-z21srr4fmGj/s320/20220618_182505.jpg" width="180" /></a></div><br /><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><br /></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><br /></p></div><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;">
</span></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 15px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;">Podsumowanie:</span></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;">W wyniku moich badań mogę stwierdzić, że suknia mogła być uszyta pomiędzy 1798 -1805 rokiem. Po roku 1805 rękawy są płyciej wszywane, konstrukcja pleców stanika nie jest tak mocno już wtedy profilowana. Hafty po 1800 roku nadal były popularne zwłaszcza pojawiały się elementy geometryczne ale już jako element pojedynczy w pionie, który „biegł” przez całą długość spódnicy. Niestety nie spotkałam się też z suknią, która z tyłu miałaby małe wypustki, które były charakterystyczne dla spencerów i ubiorów typu caraco z tego okresu. Tym bardziej przeniesienie tego typu dekoracji jest interesujące. </span></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 15px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;">Conclusion:</span></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;">As a result of my research, I can conclude that the dress may have been sewn between 1798 -1805. After 1805 the sleeves are sewn in more shallowly, the construction of the back of the bodice is no longer so strongly profiled. Embroideries were still popular after 1800, especially geometric elements, but already as a single vertical element that "ran" through the entire length of the skirt. Unfortunately, I have also not come across a dress that had the small piping at the back that was characteristic of spencers and caraco type garments of the period. This makes the transfer of this type of decoration all the more interesting. </span></p><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Bibliografia: </div><div><br /></div><div>Ewa Orlińska Mianowska, Modny świat XVIII wieku, 2003, Warszawa; english version: Fashionable World of the 18th Century. </div><div><br /></div><div>Wykrój wykonałam sama na bazie własnych notatek i zdjęć z badań ale korzystałam także z katalogu: </div><div>I made my own pattern but also I used a catalog: </div><div><br /></div><div>Heidede Biegler-Sander, Die Kostumsammlung der Familie von Bassermann-Jordan, Speyer, Band 84</div><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></p></div><div><br /></div>atelierpolonaisehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12221915032674869681noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8315684709486567201.post-52478159189282769752018-07-14T13:35:00.001+02:002018-07-14T13:40:06.516+02:00Nowy gorset Bernhadta, New Benhardt stays (1790).<div style="text-align: center;">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GAIkfr1p_Ws/W0nUd1kRzKI/AAAAAAAAGSE/h2fhf_GMuK0PWMkGU57umlkXXsGK4ijVQCLcBGAs/s1600/20180712_120133.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GAIkfr1p_Ws/W0nUd1kRzKI/AAAAAAAAGSE/h2fhf_GMuK0PWMkGU57umlkXXsGK4ijVQCLcBGAs/s320/20180712_120133.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The pattern of Bernhardt stays , fig. D from his book, Leipzig, 1810</td></tr>
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To już mój kolejny gorset z tego okresu i nareszcie jestem z niego zadowolona bo uzyskałam sylwetkę taką jaką chciałam. Wykrój oraz instrukcje pochodzą z blogu "Kleidung um 1800" gdzie wszystko dokładnie zostało opisane. </div>
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Here is my next stays from transitional era. Bernhardt stays are very comfortable and give 1790 silhuette as I wanted. Pattern and instruction you can see from excellent blog "Kleidung um 1800".<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eTtAAZsQjLE/W0nU4MWbqYI/AAAAAAAAGSM/YHgDKrEq_pcVSOWmqjEOHtRpi0KKNY_YQCLcBGAs/s1600/20180712_120404.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eTtAAZsQjLE/W0nU4MWbqYI/AAAAAAAAGSM/YHgDKrEq_pcVSOWmqjEOHtRpi0KKNY_YQCLcBGAs/s320/20180712_120404.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OstWId6TVBA/W0nVBbwqIuI/AAAAAAAAGSQ/9CScZX2QORcEB--ihS0Sr2QIE3eVkZaiACLcBGAs/s1600/20180712_120340.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OstWId6TVBA/W0nVBbwqIuI/AAAAAAAAGSQ/9CScZX2QORcEB--ihS0Sr2QIE3eVkZaiACLcBGAs/s320/20180712_120340.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pattern and insctructions from " Kleidung um 1800" </td></tr>
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Gorset uszyty został najpierw jako szablon, ale ponieważ wyjatkowo mi się udał zdecydowałam, że narazie będę go używać a z czasem uszyję kolejny. Jeśli chodzi o konstrukcję wybitnie została wzięta z osiemnastowiecznych gorsetów a szyjąc go moża zobaczyć w jaki sposób krawcy z nowym poczuciem estetyki chcieli zmienić kobiecą sylwetkę. Uprościli ją przede wszystkim tym, że zlikwidowali większą ilość fiszbin zostawiając je tam, gdzie podczas ruchu należało delikatnie usztywnić sylwetkę.<br />
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The corset was sewn first as mock - up, but I decided that it was a good and decided used it. As far as the construction remainded me 18th century corset and, while sewing it you can see how tailors these time ( with a new sense of aesthetitcs wanted to change a woman's figure's.<br />
They simplified it primarly by eliminating mor whalebone, leaving them, where during the movement it was necessary to slighty stiffen the figure.<br />
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W tym gorsecie Bernhardt zastosował tylko 6 fiszbin. Z przodu znajdują się dwie i z tyłu 4. Ja użyłam bambusa z przodu, aby nadał mi sylwetkę lekko wygięta w łuk, niestety z tyłem miałam spory problem obecnie już wiem co należy zmienić i dostosować do mojej sylwetki.<br />
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In these corset Bernhardt used only six whalebones, two in fron and 4 in back. I used in front bamboo cane for slightly stiffen and 4 plastic for back.<br />
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Oczywiście musiałam dokonać modyfikacji. Zmieniłam z tyłu sposób wiązania. Wiązanie " na okrętkę" (<i>spiral lacing</i>) jest dla mnie szczególnie nie wygodne. Cały gorset szyłam według instrukcji: sciegiem za igłą oraz nie mającym nazwy w polskim nazewnictwie - <i>point rabbate a la main,</i> <i>English stitch</i>. Z przodu tunele dla fiszbin wykonałam błękitną nicią, reszta nicią białą.<br />
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Of course I wanted to make some modifications. I changed lace in back from spiral for cross lacing for my comfort. The whole corset was made according with Sabine's instructions: I used back stitch and if I guest <i>point rabatte a la main </i>(known as <i>English stitch</i>). In front I used blue thread for the bone tunnels.<br />
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Gorset jest jak najbardziej wygodny i pięknie formułuje sylwetkę pomimo małych ilości fiszbin.<br />
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The corset is comfortable and beautifully shapes the figure. Thank you Sabine for her wonderful <a href="http://kleidungum1800.blogspot.com/2018/02/js-bernhardt-1790er-schnurleib-studien.html">work</a>!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Modelling gusset.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stitch for center front, point rabatte a la main or English stitch.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9ov1BY3VVGI/W0nbAYnlU2I/AAAAAAAAGS4/jQpMXV9egewyU2hTWuuNuKNRWzEENVeBACLcBGAs/s1600/20180702_124319.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9ov1BY3VVGI/W0nbAYnlU2I/AAAAAAAAGS4/jQpMXV9egewyU2hTWuuNuKNRWzEENVeBACLcBGAs/s320/20180702_124319.jpg" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Front.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Back. </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Back needs some modifications.</td></tr>
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atelierpolonaisehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12221915032674869681noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8315684709486567201.post-68244352638567754852017-09-10T13:06:00.004+02:002017-09-10T13:13:11.254+02:00Suknia w stylu rosyjskim, 1820, cz 1; Dress in Russian style, 1820, part 1<div style="text-align: center;">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="https://commons.m.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Varvara_Gagarina_Riesener.jpg#mw-jump-to-license"><img border="0" data-original-height="826" data-original-width="640" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wrccKQ9bEFA/WZlxSn8IyHI/AAAAAAAAGH8/9bKhsklDdYMMxD0Dvom5ClwuyJMtdYcOgCLcBGAs/s320/Varvara_Gagarina_Riesener.jpg" width="247" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://commons.m.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Varvara_Gagarina_Riesener.jpg#mw-jump-to-license">H.F. Riesener, Barbara Gagarina Dołorukowa, 1820, Muzeum Puszkina, Moskwa </a></td></tr>
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Od ponad dwóch lat w głowie miałam projekt, który chciałam zrealizowac, ale okazja podjęcia wyzwania pojawiła się dopiero niedawno. Portret, który mnie nurtował przedstawia Barbarę Gagarinę Dołgorukową (1793 - 1833) pędzla Henri - Francois Riesenera, z ok. 1820 roku, w skromnej czerwonej sukni dekorowanej czarną wstążką. Pod suknią nosi ona halkę oraz koszulkę (<i>chemisette</i>) z długimi, przezroczystymi rękawami z organdyny. Przez jakiś moment przecleciała mi myśl, że już gdzieś widziałam estetykę tej sukni. I wreszcie podczas jakiejś kwerendy wszystko się wyjaśniło.<br />
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For more than two years in my head I had a project that I wanted to make, but the opportunity to take up the challenge has only recently appeared. The portrait that bothered me is the portratit od Barbara Gagrina Dołogurkowa by Henri Francois Riesener (1793 - 1833), painted in a modest red crimson dress decorated with a black ribbon. Under the dress she wears a underdress and a chemisette with long, transparent sleeves from organdy. For a moment it was thought that I had seen the aesthetics of this dress somewhere. And finally, during a query, everything was clear.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.museum.ru/N37639">R. Lefevre, Księżna Bariatińska z córką Olgą w stroju narodowym, 1817</a></td></tr>
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Pod koniec XVIII wieku i na początku XIX wieku modne stały się suknie stylistycznie nawiązujące do ubiorów ludowych i chyba najbardziej widoczne było to w przypadku sukien w stylu rosyjskim. Dlaczego stały się one takie popularne? Z pewnością estetyką i krojem nawiązywały do popularnnej wtedy linii epirowej w sukniach europejskich. Istotną rolę odgrywały bogate broszowane materiały, oraz złote taśmy naszywane na suknie, nie bez znaczenia były też wydarzenia polityczne w tym okresie.<br />
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At the end of the eighteenth century and early nineteenth century, dresses that were stylistically related to folk costumes became fashionable and probably the most visible of the dresses in the Russian style. Why have they become so popular? Certainly aesthetics and cut were connected to the popular empire style in European dresses. The rich luxury textiles and the gold ribbons sewn on the dresses, were important, as was the political events of that period.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/157135">Silk Sarafan with gold pasamenterie with kokoshnik,<br /> front and characteristic back, 19th century, <br />from Shabelsky collection now in Met Museum. </a></td></tr>
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W Rosji tego typu bogate suknie czy spódnice nazywane były sarafanami (<i>Сарафан</i>). Zazwyczaj były one długie i bez rękawów, stanik był mały konstruowany z szelek, z tyłu miał miał formę trójkąta. Suknia z przodu miała zapięcie na całej swej długości lub tylko w połowie. Zapięcia stanowiły pętelki wykonane ze złotego sznurka a guziki były bardzo podobne do guzów noszonych do polskich kontuszy. Obok zapięcia brzegi sukni dekorowano szerokimi galonami złotymi lub srebrnymi. Galony te były wokół dekoltu oraz naszyte na ramiączkach - szelkach z tyłu naszyte były w formie trójkąta. Do tego typu sukni obowiązkowa była szeroka, biała, czasami </div>
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haftowana koszula (<i>Рубаха</i>). Komplet takiego stroju stanowił kokosznik (<i>Кокошник</i>), który był bogatym nakryciem głowy w formie dużej tiary.<br />
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In Russia such rich dresses or skirts were called <i>sarafans</i> (<i>Сарафан</i>). Usually they were long and sleeveless, the bodice was in empire style, the back was in the form of a triangle. The gown at the front was opened in its entire length or only in half. Clasps were made of golden string and the buttons were very similar to Polish for contusches. Next to the clasp, the edges of the dress were decorated with wide gold or silver <i>pasamenterie</i>. These gallons were around the neckline and sewn on shoulder straps - the back straps were sewn in the form of a triangle. For this type of dress was obligatory wide, white, sometimes<br />
embroidered shirt (Рубаха) and headdress known as (Кокошник), which was a rich headdress in the form of a large tiara.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Katharina_II.,_die_Gro%C3%9Fe.jpg#mw-jump-to-license">S. Torelli, Catharina the Great in mascarade russian costume, 1780, Moscov Museum</a></td></tr>
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Najstarszy wizerunek przedstawiający portretowane arystokratki w tego typu strojach to portret Katarzyny II datowany na 1780 autorstwa Stefana Torellego i Nieznana dama w stroju rosyjskim pędzla Iwana Argunowa z 1784 roku.<br />
Cesarzowa Katarzyna II ubrana <i>sarafan</i> dekorowany złotymi galonami, dekoracyjną <i>rubachę i kokosznik </i>w dłoni trzyma maskę co może oznaczac, iż jej ubiór jest kostiumem maskaradowym.<br />
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The oldest portrait of portraits of aristocrats in this type of costume is a portrait of Catherine II dating back to 1780 by Stefan Torelli and unknown lady in Russian costume Ivan Ivanov's 1784.<br />
Empress Catherine II dressed in sarafan decorated with gold gallons, decorative ruby and cocktail in her hand holds a mask which can mean that her dress is a masquerade costume.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HBdQMDQkeGU/Wa1I-hWE7aI/AAAAAAAAGKw/cV_MM6_7K_g1GDhaRbXy3Pid2Kp7uAxfQCLcBGAs/s1600/1536px-Ivan_Argunov_-_%25D0%259F%25D0%25BE%25D1%2580%25D1%2582%25D1%2580%25D0%25B5%25D1%2582_%25D0%25BD%25D0%25B5%25D0%25B8%25D0%25B7%25D0%25B2%25D0%25B5%25D1%2581%25D1%2582%25D0%25BD%25D0%25BE%25D0%25B9_%25D0%25B2_%25D1%2580%25D1%2583%25D1%2581%25D1%2581%25D0%25BA%25D0%25BE%25D0%25BC_%25D0%25BA%25D0%25BE%25D1%2581%25D1%2582%25D1%258E%25D0%25BC%25D0%25B5_-_Google_Art_Project.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1280" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HBdQMDQkeGU/Wa1I-hWE7aI/AAAAAAAAGKw/cV_MM6_7K_g1GDhaRbXy3Pid2Kp7uAxfQCLcBGAs/s320/1536px-Ivan_Argunov_-_%25D0%259F%25D0%25BE%25D1%2580%25D1%2582%25D1%2580%25D0%25B5%25D1%2582_%25D0%25BD%25D0%25B5%25D0%25B8%25D0%25B7%25D0%25B2%25D0%25B5%25D1%2581%25D1%2582%25D0%25BD%25D0%25BE%25D0%25B9_%25D0%25B2_%25D1%2580%25D1%2583%25D1%2581%25D1%2581%25D0%25BA%25D0%25BE%25D0%25BC_%25D0%25BA%25D0%25BE%25D1%2581%25D1%2582%25D1%258E%25D0%25BC%25D0%25B5_-_Google_Art_Project.jpg" width="256" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://commons.m.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Ivan_Argunov_-_%D0%9F%D0%BE%D1%80%D1%82%D1%80%D0%B5%D1%82_%D0%BD%D0%B5%D0%B8%D0%B7%D0%B2%D0%B5%D1%81%D1%82%D0%BD%D0%BE%D0%B9_%D0%B2_%D1%80%D1%83%D1%81%D1%81%D0%BA%D0%BE%D0%BC_%D0%BA%D0%BE%D1%81%D1%82%D1%8E%D0%BC%D0%B5_-_Google_Art_Project.jpg#mw-jump-to-license">I.Argunow, Portrait of unknown Lady in Russian attire, 1784, Treyakov Gallery, Moscow</a></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eKCSwjOn4F4/WZmM959RRlI/AAAAAAAAGJM/jnPTcvxrgQ0kP6rYEQRGMU8bh1bdo3s0QCEwYBhgL/s1600/534px-Wife_Charlotta_in_Russian_dress_by_A.C.Ritt.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="599" data-original-width="534" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eKCSwjOn4F4/WZmM959RRlI/AAAAAAAAGJM/jnPTcvxrgQ0kP6rYEQRGMU8bh1bdo3s0QCEwYBhgL/s320/534px-Wife_Charlotta_in_Russian_dress_by_A.C.Ritt.jpg" width="285" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Wife_Charlotta_in_Russian_dress_by_A.C.Ritt.jpg#mw-jump-to-license">A.Ch.Ritt, Portratit of artist's wife Charlotte Juliane in Russian dress, 1798, <br />Hermitage Museum. St. Peretsburg.</a></td></tr>
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Na miniaturawym portrecie żony artysty działającego na dworze w Petersburgu Augusta Christiana Ritta, widzimy damę ubraną w czerwony sarafan z guzikami w formie guzów, noszącą białą <i>rubachę</i> z szerokimi rękawami oraz efektownym <i>kokoszniku. </i>I to ten styl rosyjskiej sukni przyjmie się na jakiś czas w Europie.<br />
Uproszczony strój, dopasowany do wymogów linii empirowej stał sie popularny wśród młodych dziewcząt w Paryżu oraz przede wszytskim w Niemczech.<br />
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On the miniature portrait of the wife of the artist at the court of Petersburg Augustus Christian Ritt, we see a lady dressed in red sarafan with buttons in the characteristic form, wearing white sleeves with wide sleeves and effective cocktail. And this style of Russian dress will be accepted for some time in Europe.<br />
Simplified attire, tailored to the needs of the empire line, has become popular among young girls in Paris and most of all in Germany.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVhrWN1VbIgXKqC5bc0yVsRuF1Ug6eSWRC0kapon8NIVhsO3XyMXCvIpprM7ctsCDAa4RPp95CPffzMSTrHlEz5OTXmS3NPoTsc7iprAXfEE3Dhi_kCaJCVVAS3Q7CDpyEZmJBo0PhPlXm/s1600/IMG_4006.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="392" data-original-width="282" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVhrWN1VbIgXKqC5bc0yVsRuF1Ug6eSWRC0kapon8NIVhsO3XyMXCvIpprM7ctsCDAa4RPp95CPffzMSTrHlEz5OTXmS3NPoTsc7iprAXfEE3Dhi_kCaJCVVAS3Q7CDpyEZmJBo0PhPlXm/s320/IMG_4006.JPG" width="230" /></a></td></tr>
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Pięknym przedstawieniem tego typu ubioru jest portret siostry i brata, ale niestety nie pamiętam nazwisk ani autora ani modeli, jeśli ktoś orientuje się, kto jest na tym portrecie, jakie jest nazwisko autora oraz data powstania obrazu, proszę o podpowiedź.<br />
Portret na pewno powstał na samym początku XIX wieku. Sukienka jest prosta w kolorze jasnej zieleni, dekorowana pasmanterią z przodu.<br />
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The beautiful representation of this type of dress is the portrait of sister and brother, but unfortunately I do not remember the names nor the author or models, if anyone knows who is on this picture, what is the author's name and date of the image, please write about.<br />
The portrait was created at the very beginning of the 19th century. The dress is simple in light green color, decorated with haberdashery in front.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BSWHP9RBfHc/WZm6J9IFC1I/AAAAAAAAGJo/vvHw-1QhJSskuQufAJ8OmxhNsTIICqqUgCLcBGAs/s1600/Studio_20170820_183419.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="869" height="320" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BSWHP9RBfHc/WZm6J9IFC1I/AAAAAAAAGJo/vvHw-1QhJSskuQufAJ8OmxhNsTIICqqUgCLcBGAs/s320/Studio_20170820_183419.jpg" width="173" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://zs.thulb.uni-jena.de/receive/jportal_jpvolume_00055865">Eine Dame in polnische - russische Tracht,<br /> Journal des Luxus un der Moden, 1809, April</a></td></tr>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3abCNlBXbr4/WZm7PWfOCQI/AAAAAAAAGJ0/D497ujDcnNgV32c0eDAlRPUeLgWXsHpbQCLcBGAs/s1600/20170820_124035.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3abCNlBXbr4/WZm7PWfOCQI/AAAAAAAAGJ0/D497ujDcnNgV32c0eDAlRPUeLgWXsHpbQCLcBGAs/s320/20170820_124035.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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W 1809 roku w kwietniowym numerze <i>Journal des Luxus und der Moden,</i><br />
suknię w stylu rosyjskim opisał korespondent:<br />
<i>Na planszy nr 10 na załączonym rysunku przedstawiono nową modę, która w Paryżu i w Niemczech stała się popularna. Jedni nazywają ten ubiór polskim inni rosyjskim. Jest to suknia bez rękawów składająca się ze zwyczajnego stanika. Tył sukni trzyma się na ramiączkach a z przodu widoczna jest koszulka (Chemisen - Theil) (...) z białej krepy lub płótna, rękawy ma szerokie i może miec także kołnierz (Krause). Wzdłuż spódnicy z przodu widac dwa rzędy aksamitnej lub satynowej taśmy, inna znajduje się w dwóch rzędach naszyta wokół spódnicy, srebrne guziki w stylu husarskim widoczne są pomiędzy taśmami. </i><br />
<i>Zwykle nosi się fryzurę w stylu a la Titus lub rodzaj nakrycia głowy - czapki w kolorze sukni. Suknia ta przyjęła się jako ubiór na bal w mieście, szyte wtedy z jedwabiu jak Flor*. Jako ubiór typu neglige - szyty z tafty lub kaszmiru. Stanowi ona także popularny fason sukni noszonej w domu z czarnej tafty lub innych kolorowych tkanin. Ale koszulka jest zawsze biała. </i><br />
<i>Tego typu ubiory - szyte są z krepy (Crep) lub Filoche,** dekorowane drogim haftem lub szenilą (Chenille) i Jais*** i są noszone na dworach i wielkich asamblach ( balach). ****</i><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>*</i> Flor - cienka tkanina jedwabna, wełniana lub bawełniana</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">** Filoche - tkanina siatkowa ( podobna do tiulu) lub odmiana francuskiej serży</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">*** Jais - prawdopodobnie styl haftu łańcuszkowego wywodzący się z indyjskiej wioski Jais.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">**** tłumaczenie własne</span><br />
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In 1809, in the April issue of the <i>Journal des Luxus und der Mo</i>den,</div>
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correspondent wrote:</div>
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<i>On board no. 10 in the attached drawing shows a new fashion, which became popular in Paris and Germany. Some call this Polish dress or Russian dress. It is a sleeveless dress consisting of a normal bodice. The back of the dress is straps and the front of the shirt is visible (Chemisen - Theil) ... with white crepe or canvas, sleeves are wide and may also have a collar (Krause). Along the front skirt you can see two rows of velvet or satin ribbon, the other is in two rows sewn around the skirt, silver buttons in the hussar style are visible between the strips.</i></div>
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<i>Usually wears a hair style in the style "a la Titus" or a kind of hat or cap - in the color of the dress. This dress was used as a costume for a ball in the city, then sewed with silk like Flor *. As a neglige dress - sewn from taffeta or cashmere. It is also a popular fashion dress worn at home in black taffeta or other colored fabrics. But the shirt is always white.</i></div>
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<i>These dresses are made from Crep or Filoche, decorated with expensive embroidery or Chenille and Jais ***, and are worn in court and large asamblies. ****</i></div>
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<i><span style="font-size: x-small;">* Flor - thin silk, wool or cotton</span></i></div>
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<i><span style="font-size: x-small;">** Filoche - mesh fabric (similar to tulle) or variant of French cheese</span></i></div>
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<i><span style="font-size: x-small;">*** Jais - probably a style of chain embroidery originating from the Indian village of Jais.</span></i></div>
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<i><span style="font-size: x-small;">**** my translation</span></i></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JuEKjbSEUBM/WZm8Fy0C3fI/AAAAAAAAGJ4/_G2UN2m4in8p1atJNSAEvwnKJOrE_slFwCLcBGAs/s1600/1502px-Princess_Charlotte_of_Wales.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1252" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JuEKjbSEUBM/WZm8Fy0C3fI/AAAAAAAAGJ4/_G2UN2m4in8p1atJNSAEvwnKJOrE_slFwCLcBGAs/s320/1502px-Princess_Charlotte_of_Wales.jpg" width="250" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://janeaustensworld.wordpress.com/2012/04/22/princess-charlottes-blu-gown/">G. Daw, Princess Charlotte in russian blue dress, 1717, National Portrait Gallery</a></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4QVE933QMeQ/WZm8deUFoFI/AAAAAAAAGJ8/xTU8ba2mfPEkDaoThB3a4XxNkxfgCTpbQCEwYBhgL/s1600/princess-charlottes-gown.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="400" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4QVE933QMeQ/WZm8deUFoFI/AAAAAAAAGJ8/xTU8ba2mfPEkDaoThB3a4XxNkxfgCTpbQCEwYBhgL/s320/princess-charlottes-gown.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://janeaustensworld.wordpress.com/2012/04/22/princess-charlottes-blu-gown/">Extant blue dress in russian style belonged to princess Charlotte. <br />The Royal Collection. </a></td></tr>
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Najsłynniejszą suknią tego typu jest ubiór księżniczki Charlotty Augusty Hanoverskiej zmarłej w w 1817 roku. O historii tej sukni można przeczytac <a href="https://janeaustensworld.wordpress.com/2012/04/22/princess-charlottes-blu-gown/">tutaj</a>.<br />
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The most famous dress of this type is the costume of Princess Charlotte, who died in 1817. You can read about the history of this dress <a href="https://janeaustensworld.wordpress.com/2012/04/22/princess-charlottes-blu-gown/">here</a>.<br />
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Podobną suknię reprezentuje niedawno odkryty portret rosyjskiej arystokratki Madame Swetchine datowany na ok. 1816. Portret namalowany przez belgijskiego artystę Francois Kinsona, przedstawia modelkę w niebieskiej sukni w stylu rosyjskim, dekorowana złotymi szerokimi galonami, empirową linię modelka podkreśliła złoto- różową szarfą. Rękawy koszuli są haftowane biała nicią, ale nie zakrywają dekoltu. Sophia nosi także tradycyjne kolczyki rosyjskie oraz kokosznik - turban, mający nawiązywac do mody francuskiej. Na szyi nosi krzyż różokrzyżowców.<br />
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A similar dress represents the recently discovered portrait of the Russian aristocrat Madame Swetchine dating to 1816. Portrait painted by Belgian artist Francois Kinson, depicts a model in a Russian-style blue dress, decorated with gold wide gallons, the empire model line emphasized gold-pink sash. The sleeves of the shirt are embroidered with white thread but do not cover the neckline. Sophia also wears traditional Russian earrings and a turban In style in <i>Kokoshnik</i>, which is associated with French fashion. On his neck he carries the cross of the Rose cross.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uei-RlTzxMo/WaWYAV51B1I/AAAAAAAAGKQ/pS5omu5jjHIFwPDITx5-v0ZORD28aWX0wCLcBGAs/s1600/%25D0%25A1%25D0%25BE%25D1%2584%25D1%258C%25D1%258F_%25D0%25BF%25D0%25B5%25D1%2582%25D1%2580%25D0%25BE_%25D1%2581%25D0%25B2%25D0%25B5%25D1%2587%25D0%25B8%25D0%25BD%25D0%25B0_1816.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1059" data-original-width="739" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uei-RlTzxMo/WaWYAV51B1I/AAAAAAAAGKQ/pS5omu5jjHIFwPDITx5-v0ZORD28aWX0wCLcBGAs/s320/%25D0%25A1%25D0%25BE%25D1%2584%25D1%258C%25D1%258F_%25D0%25BF%25D0%25B5%25D1%2582%25D1%2580%25D0%25BE_%25D1%2581%25D0%25B2%25D0%25B5%25D1%2587%25D0%25B8%25D0%25BD%25D0%25B0_1816.jpg" width="223" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://commons.m.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:%D0%A1%D0%BE%D1%84%D1%8C%D1%8F_%D0%BF%D0%B5%D1%82%D1%80%D0%BE_%D1%81%D0%B2%D0%B5%D1%87%D0%B8%D0%BD%D0%B0_1816.jpg#mw-jump-to-license">F. Kinson, Portrait of Madame Swetchine, 1816,private collection</a></td></tr>
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Sophia Pietrowna Sajmołowna była rosyjską arystokratką, damą dworu cesarzowej Marii Fedorownej. W 1815 roku przeszła na katolicyzm i w związku z tym musiała wyjechac z Rosji z mężem (arystokracja wyznania katolickiego nie mogła mieszkac w Rosji) na miejsce swojej emigracji wybrała Paryż, tam też stworzyła znany literacki salon.<br />
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Sophia Petrovna Sajmolovna was a Russian aristocrat, the court lady of the Empress Maria Fedorovna. In 1815, she moved to Catholicism, and therefore she had to leave Russia with her husband (the aristocracy of the Catholic faith could not live in Russia) chose Paris as her emigration, where she also created a well-known literary salon.<br />
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Po Kongresie Wiedeńskim wielu Rosjan, z różnych powodów znaleźli się w Paryżu a ich kultura i styl bycia przyjął się przede wszystkim w Paryżu. Echem tych wpływów jest pojawienie się wtedy szybkich barów obsługi dziś znanych jako <i>bistro</i> wywodzące się z rosyjskiego słownictwa "<i>bystro</i>" czyli szybko. Większośc, Rosjan do Paryża przybywało przez Warszawę co byc może błędnie później uważano ten strój za polski. Klimat tamtego okresu przedstawiają grawiury Adriena Godefroy, na których widac rosyjskich oficerów na paryskich ulicach.<br />
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After the Vienna Congress, many Russians, for various reasons, were in Paris, and their culture and style of life was first and foremost in Paris. Echoes of these influences are the emergence of fast service bars known today as the <i>bistro</i>, derived from the Russian vocabulary "fast" or fast. Most Russians came to Paris through Warsaw, which may have been mistakenly later considered these dress to be as a Polish dress. The climate of that period depicts the engravings of Adrian Godefroy, where Russian officers are seen on the Parisian streets.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WEwTd70DGQM/WaWeyHubwWI/AAAAAAAAGKg/Xpm7Ljhm9N8ox2aVm96oRYXUcI_c5QFswCLcBGAs/s1600/Le_Premier_pas_d%2527un_jeune_%255B...%255DGodefroy_Adrien_btv1b6954362m.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1054" data-original-width="1417" height="238" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WEwTd70DGQM/WaWeyHubwWI/AAAAAAAAGKg/Xpm7Ljhm9N8ox2aVm96oRYXUcI_c5QFswCLcBGAs/s320/Le_Premier_pas_d%2527un_jeune_%255B...%255DGodefroy_Adrien_btv1b6954362m.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/btv1b6954362m/f1.item">A. Godefroy, Le premier pas ..., 1815, Gallica</a></td></tr>
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Kobiecy strój w stylu rosyjskim noszony był także i w późniejszych czasach chociaż wydaje mi się, że wtedy zaczął on zatracac swoje cechy charakterystyczne na rzecz mody francuskiej. Ogólnie w rosyjskich pracach kostiumologicznych pojawia się narodowego stroju dworskiego, mający nawiązywac do dawnego ubioru rosyjskiego. Strój dworu rosyjskiego konstrukcyjnie nie ma dla mnie żadnych związków z rosyjskim sarafanem lecz z modą francuską oraz z historyzmem,który wtedy także stał się modny.<br />
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Feminine Russian-style dress was also worn in later times, although it seems to me that at that time, he began to lose Russian style for more French fashion. Generally speaking, Russian national costume shows a national court dress, referring to the old Russian dress. The costume of the Russian court has no relation (for me) to the Russian sarafan but to French fashion and historicism, which also became fashionable at the time.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Qm4CSCavlzA/Wa1K9QqtedI/AAAAAAAAGK8/pK2Z8zcarqk-Jwm3e9Afh1V6wyZYr20agCLcBGAs/s1600/1440px-L%25C3%25A9ontine_de_Rivi%25C3%25A8re.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Qm4CSCavlzA/Wa1K9QqtedI/AAAAAAAAGK8/pK2Z8zcarqk-Jwm3e9Afh1V6wyZYr20agCLcBGAs/s320/1440px-L%25C3%25A9ontine_de_Rivi%25C3%25A8re.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://thegazeofaparisienne.com/2015/09/30/elisabeth-louise-vigee-lebrun-1755-1842/">E. Vigge - Lebrun, Young woman (Leontine de la Riviere), 1831, Hermitage</a></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ygeq4qO57J0/Wa1L0o6ks_I/AAAAAAAAGLE/N4gdkAURBYgWNuC0mliQD1H-4fZNPfuQgCLcBGAs/s1600/Jakov_Argunov_02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1508" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ygeq4qO57J0/Wa1L0o6ks_I/AAAAAAAAGLE/N4gdkAURBYgWNuC0mliQD1H-4fZNPfuQgCLcBGAs/s320/Jakov_Argunov_02.jpg" width="254" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://commons.m.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Jakov_Argunov_02.jpg#mw-jump-to-license">I. Argunov, Portrait of Elizabeth Iwanowny Bantysz - Kamienskoj, 1823</a></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GZy22XNrcOY/Wa1PGIc93qI/AAAAAAAAGLQ/UuzR8ozAQfo2GfKOUJrQbIognJAXTU-_QCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_4075.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="970" data-original-width="736" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GZy22XNrcOY/Wa1PGIc93qI/AAAAAAAAGLQ/UuzR8ozAQfo2GfKOUJrQbIognJAXTU-_QCLcBGAs/s320/IMG_4075.JPG" width="242" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Unkown painter I can't find about these portrait, 1810 - 1820 </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-eU1VLva9r6U/WbUcGeNK8mI/AAAAAAAAGLg/K7BSSeRpe0U8XJ5x-KtVijrD-SkBtKpkQCLcBGAs/s1600/1563px-Paul_Barbier_001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1303" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-eU1VLva9r6U/WbUcGeNK8mI/AAAAAAAAGLg/K7BSSeRpe0U8XJ5x-KtVijrD-SkBtKpkQCLcBGAs/s320/1563px-Paul_Barbier_001.jpg" width="260" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://commons.m.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Paul_Barbier_001.JPG#mw-jump-to-license">Paul Barbier, Young woman in Russian dress, 1817, The Russian State Museum, St. Petersburg</a></td></tr>
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atelierpolonaisehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12221915032674869681noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8315684709486567201.post-60028672824797399192017-04-08T23:08:00.002+02:002017-04-08T23:08:47.326+02:00My new book. Moja nowa książka<div style="text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5Z8-7nRs8oU/WOlPLvIuLSI/AAAAAAAAGGs/MI1yei3rCfshCfWQrIkwASGPU4PzfKPmwCLcB/s1600/20170407_135024.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5Z8-7nRs8oU/WOlPLvIuLSI/AAAAAAAAGGs/MI1yei3rCfshCfWQrIkwASGPU4PzfKPmwCLcB/s320/20170407_135024.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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W tym tygodniu dostałam pierwszy egzemplarz swojej książki napisanej razem z moim ojcem. </div>
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Książka <i>Jedwab.</i> <i>Szlakami dżonek i karawan </i>jest wznowieniem tej pozycji z 2007 roku. Poświęcona jest historii Jedwabnego Szlaku ze szczególnym uwzględnieniem przez ze mnie rozwoju tkanin, haftów i ubiorów, które stały się modne w Europie na przestrzeni wieków. Znalazły się tam także informacje o ubiorach noszonych w Polsce jak i w Gdańsku. Książka zawiera nowe ilustracje czarno - białe i kolorowe we wkładce. <br />
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This week I got the first copy of my book written with my father.<br />
<i>The Silk. Trail jitter and caravan</i> is resuming my first book from 2007. The book is about the history of the Silk Road is devoted to the development of fabrics, embroidery and clothing that have become fashionable in Europe over the centuries. There are also information about dresses worn in Poland and in Gdańsk. The book contains new black and white and color illustrations in the insert.<br />
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Aleksandra Kajdańska<br />
Edward Kajdański<br />
Jedwab. Szlakami Dżonek i karawan<br />
Książka i Wiedza, 2017<br />
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atelierpolonaisehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12221915032674869681noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8315684709486567201.post-57196247497073217982017-01-25T18:28:00.000+01:002017-01-25T18:28:22.931+01:00Monsieur Leonard - Coiffeur de la Reine<div style="text-align: center;">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">Leonard przy pracy/ Monsieur Leonard at work, "Galerie des modes francaises et angloise", 1778 - 1787, </span><a href="http://digital.bunka.ac.jp/kichosho_e/search_list2.php" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">Bunka Gakuen Library </a></td></tr>
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Leonard Autie był w swoim czasie tym kim w latach 20 XX wieku był Antoine. Postać dziś mało już znana a w drugiej połowie XVIII wieku była wyrocznią fryzjerskiej mody. Leonard - Alexis Autie urodził się na południu Francji w Pamiers z rodziców będących służącymi. Nie jest wiadome kiedy i w jaki sposób zaczął kształcić się na fryzjera. Dopiero ok. 1769 roku Autie przybywa do Paryża i od razu rozpoczyna się jego kariera. Zaczynał od pracy z aktorkami, zresztą teatr w życiu Leonarda też odegrał bardzo ważną rolę. Jego kariera rozpoczęła się od pracy z Julie Niebert, aktorki z Theatre de Nicolet. Niezwykłe fryzury i kreatywna inwencja przysporzyły mu popularność zwłaszcza wśród dam arystokracji. Do jego klientek zaczeły należeć Madame du Barry, Marquise de Langeac a od 1772 roku także Delfina Maria Antonina.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BJdfvINXpZc/WIjeLnkk0PI/AAAAAAAAGCY/nfg8QlAA9qkic171wj0KUtU9fNcxETyLgCLcB/s1600/SC116492.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BJdfvINXpZc/WIjeLnkk0PI/AAAAAAAAGCY/nfg8QlAA9qkic171wj0KUtU9fNcxETyLgCLcB/s320/SC116492.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: #fbfbfa; color: #333333; font-family: 'Libre Baskerville'; font-size: 16px; line-height: 24px; text-align: start;">Coëffure d’une Dame de qualité coëffée par M. Leonard Coëffeur de la Reine., Gallerie des Modes ..., 1781, <a href="http://tumes-fran%C3%A7ais-38e-cahier-des-costumes-fran%C3%A7ais-9e-suite-des-coeffures-%C3%A0-la-mode-en-1781-oo222-co%C3%ABffure-dune-dame-351725/">Boston MFA</a></span></td></tr>
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Leonard Autie was in his time, who in the 20 years of the twentieth century was famous Antoine. The figure today little known and already in the second half of the eighteenth century was the Master of hairdressing fashion. Leonard - Alexis Autie was born in the south of France in Pamiers from parents being servants. It is not known when and how he began to educate themselves at the hairdresser. Only about 1769 Autie arrives in Paris and immediately started his career. He started working with the actresses, besides theater in the life of Leonardo also played a very important role. His career began with the work of Julie Niebert actress of Theatre de Nicolet.<br />
Unusual hairstyles and creative ingenuity earned him popularity especially among the ladies of the aristocracy. His clients had already begun to be of Madame du Barry, Marquise de Langeac and from 1772 years also Marie Antoinette.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kostium sceniczny Wenus/ Costume of Venus, Galeire des modes ...<br />
<a href="http://digital.bunka.ac.jp/kichosho_e/search_shousai.php">Bunka Gakuen Library</a></td></tr>
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Na dworze francuskim Leonard spotkał Rose Bertin, z którą przez wiele lat współpracował. Razem z nią przy finansowej pomocy Marii Antoniny uzestniczył w edycjach żurnala o modzie <i>Journal des Dames </i>ukazujący się w latach 1759 - 1775. Żurnal ten był "tubą propagandową" mody dworskiej i prezentował ubiory zarówno Rose jak i Leonarda.<br />
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On the French court Leonard met Rose Bertin, which for many years worked. Together with her with the financial help of Marie Antoinette participated in the editions being fashionable fashion <i>Journal des Dames</i> appearing in the years 1759 - 1775. Magazine was "propaganda" courtly fashion and clothing presented both Rose and Leonard.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SLdUo1vhXJk/WIeQ51Fn6OI/AAAAAAAAGAw/TRv2SD8XFcIMfgadNT1rcvzTR7HhBBm2wCLcB/s1600/Title_page_of_the_%2527Journal_des_Dames%2527%252C_Paris%252C_Jamuary_1774_-_Bashor_2013_p63.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SLdUo1vhXJk/WIeQ51Fn6OI/AAAAAAAAGAw/TRv2SD8XFcIMfgadNT1rcvzTR7HhBBm2wCLcB/s320/Title_page_of_the_%2527Journal_des_Dames%2527%252C_Paris%252C_Jamuary_1774_-_Bashor_2013_p63.jpg" width="194" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Journal des Dames, 1775, <a href="http://data.bnf.fr/34473024/journal_des_dames__paris_/">BNF</a> </td></tr>
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Rose uważa się za twórczynię najpopularniejszej fryzury znanej jako Quesaco ( co to jest?). Była to wysoko upięta fryzura z lokami zaś z tyłu posiadała trzy białe duże strusie pióra. Nazwę tę miał ponoć nadać sam Auguste de Beaumarchais, który na widok tego dziwactwa zaczął się śmiać i pytać Co to jest?. Jakkolwiek historia o tym pisze, faktem jest, że ta fryzura przetrwała aż do lat 90. XVIII wieku stając się wyznacznikiem elegancji kobiet z tamtego okresu. Jest jednak domysłem czy rzeczywiście Rose Bertin była twórczynią tej fryzury, nie była przecież z wykształcenia fryzjerką a modystką, ile w tym było inwnecji twórczej Leonarda, przekazy milczą.<br />
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Rose was famous for the most popular hairstyle known as <i>Quesaco</i> (what is?). It was a highly pinned hair with curls and the back had three large white ostrich feathers. This name is said to have given himself Auguste de Beaumarchais, who at the sight of oddities began to laugh and ask What's this ?<br />
However, the story of this writing, the fact is that this haircut survived until the 90s the eighteenth century, becoming the determinant elegance of women from that period. It is, however, conjecture or indeed Rose Bertin was the creator of this hairstyle was not yet a trained hairdresser and milliner, how much of it was invention creative Leonard, sources silent.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XwPXrN2aH2g/WIeUOF8VtWI/AAAAAAAAGA8/Pej3lT4RB20DkWISEYotV90RKUZugf2egCLcB/s1600/modefrancaise2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="253" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XwPXrN2aH2g/WIeUOF8VtWI/AAAAAAAAGA8/Pej3lT4RB20DkWISEYotV90RKUZugf2egCLcB/s320/modefrancaise2.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Plansza do gry powiązana z modą w rogu ilustracja Academie des Coeffures i Leonard przy pracy, pole nr 17 przedstawia fryzurę Quesaquot/ Printed board game about fashion, Left corner Academie des Coiffeurs and Monsieur Leonard at work, Les Nouveau Jeu des Modes Fancaises, print in London, 1780, </td></tr>
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Leonard z kolei był twórcą znanych <i>pouf aux sentiment. </i>Czepek sentymentalny wymagał wysokiej fyrzury upiętej na wypychaczach z włosia końskiego czy waty wełnianej, na której upinano delikatne tkaniny (Leonard potrzebował ok. 14 metrów), dodając do nich treski z loków. <i>Pouf </i>był modelowany w zalezności od kaprysu modelki - zależał też od danego tematu, ozdobiano go diamentami, sztucznymi kwiatami, owocami, warzywami, wypchanymi ptakami czy małymi miniaturowymi laleczkami i miniaturowymi portecikami osób z rodziny - dlatego też nazywano je <i>aux sentimentale. </i>Pierwszą damą dworu dla której Leonard wykonał <i>pouf </i>była księżna de Chartres, na jej fryzurze znajdowała sie postac kobiety z dzieckiem, papugi księżnej oraz ulubionego czarnoskórego służącego.<br />
Z czasem czepki te wyszły z domy na dworze ale stały się popularne w innych europejskich krajach. Mieszczanki nie zawsze nosiły tego typu fryzury chociaż zgodnie z ówczesnymi trendami czepki mieszczańskie także nabrały dużych rozmiarów.<br />
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Leonard, in turn, was the creator of famous <i>pouf aux sentiment</i>. These <i>pouf </i> require high hairdress decorated which delicate fabrics as gauze (Leonard needed approx. 14 meters), adding to their hairpieces with curls. <i>Pouf </i>was modeled on a whim depending on the model - depended also on the topic, adorn it with diamonds, artificial flowers, fruits, vegetables, stuffed birds or small miniature dolls and miniature of the family - why they were called <i>aux sentimentale.</i> The first lady of the manor for which Leonard made a pouf was the Duchess de Chartres, her hairstyle was the figure of a woman with a child, parrots and Duchess of favorite black servant.<br />
Over time, these caps came out of the houses on the outside but have become popular in other European countries. Burgeoirs woman not always wore this type of hairstyle although according to contemporary trends of caps also gained large.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Zxvt7oWC8Qc/WIjQgHhl4DI/AAAAAAAAGBM/ph5tldgjAfo6wD3MzIGF-uTrwG-LoMHmQCLcB/s1600/IMG_9723.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="249" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Zxvt7oWC8Qc/WIjQgHhl4DI/AAAAAAAAGBM/ph5tldgjAfo6wD3MzIGF-uTrwG-LoMHmQCLcB/s320/IMG_9723.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">D. Chodowiecki, Coeffures de Paris, Genealogishen Kalender auf das 1780 Jahr, Lauenburg</td></tr>
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Moda nabierała rozmachu damy nosiły ogrody, rzeczki i lasy całe krajobrazy i parki, francuska namietność do wojny amerykańskiej oraz bitwy francuskie to wszystko mogło stanowić o inspiracji fryzur.<br />
Wielki sukces Leonarda umożliwił mu założenie <i>Académie de coiffeur. </i>Była to zarówno szkoła jak studio gdzie mistrz nazywany już jako Monsieur Leonard czesał damy podług własnych inspiracji. Warto wspomnieć, że Leonard ściągnął do Paryża swoich młodszych braci, którzy także wyszkolili się w tym samym zawodzie. Pierre pracował dla siostry króla Ludwika XVI madame Elisabeth a Jean - Francois także dla Marii Antoniny i jej dworu. Oboje bracia wykorzystywali sławę starszego brata i nazywali się jako Monsiuer Leonard co później stworzyło problem dla badaczy zajmujących się jego biografią.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_6r-37y-CpI/WIjRW75DhPI/AAAAAAAAGBQ/Ht2V0V69QgQSyYykT-OZAnNTTDdjG--FQCLcB/s1600/IMG_9727.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="261" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_6r-37y-CpI/WIjRW75DhPI/AAAAAAAAGBQ/Ht2V0V69QgQSyYykT-OZAnNTTDdjG--FQCLcB/s320/IMG_9727.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">D. Chodowiecki, Coeffures de Dresde, Genealogishen ... 1780, Lauenburg</td></tr>
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Fashion in these times was greate and famous, ladies wore gardens, rivers and forests and landscapes and parks, the French passion for war, American and French battle all this could be the inspired hairstyles.<br />
The great success of Leonardo enabled him to assume the <i>Académie de coiffeur. </i>It was both a school as the studio where the master called already as <i>Monsieur</i> Leonard worked with ladies client with own inspiration. It is worth mentioning that Leonard brought to Paris, his younger brothers, who are also trained in the same profession. Pierre worked for the sister of King Louis XVI, Madame Elisabeth and Jean - Francois also for Marie Antoinette and her court. Both brothers used the fame and older brother called as Monsiuer Leonard which later created a problem for researchers dealing with his biography.<br />
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W latach 80. XVIII wieku Leonard stał sie bogatym człowiekiem i nie musiał już tak intensywnie pracować. Nadal był nadworny fryzjerem królowej (<i>Coiffeur de la Reine</i>) przygotowując fryzury na uroczystości i bale ale coraz mniej się angażował w pracę pozostawiając ją pod opieką swoich braci.<br />
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In the 80 years of the eighteenth century, Leonard became a rich man and did not have to work so hard. He was still the queen's court hairdresser (Coiffeur de la Reine) preparing hairstyles for parties and balls.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="http://theredlist.com/wiki-2-20-881-1399-1143-view-opera-profile-armide-gluck-rossini.html"><img border="0" height="195" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pDn9_-kl9jo/WIjVShWpHFI/AAAAAAAAGBg/ic6U_I_eQz8ERySdc28ML5Op9eZCypfNACLcB/s320/015_armide_christophwillibald_von_gluck_rossini_theredlist.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://theredlist.com/wiki-2-20-881-1399-1143-view-opera-profile-armide-gluck-rossini.html">Armida, Glucka, rys. anonimowy/ anonimous drawing, set design from Armide, Gluck</a></td></tr>
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Drugą pasją Leonarda Autie był teatr i opera włoska. Z namową Marii Antoniny Leonard został impresariem i założył swój własny po wielu perypetiach nazwany <i>Theatre de Monsieur. </i>Impresario miał ambitne plany prezentować na deskach teatru operę włoską, francuską, sztukę francuską i francuskie wodewile (<i>vaudevilles à caractères</i>). Teatr został otwarty w 1789 roku w styczniu i zakładał roczną działalność. Niestety scena ta nie przetrwała ze względu na rewolucyjną zawieruchę.<br />
Mało jest informacji o tym co się działo z Leonardem podczas rewolucji we Francji. Wiadomo, że jego brat Jean Francois towrzyszył księciu de Choiseul podczas nieforunnej ucieczki króla do Varennes, został złapany i stracony na gilotynie w 1794 roku.<br />
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Leonard Autie other passion was the theater and the Italian opera. On the insistence of Marie Antoinette Leonard was impresario and founded his own after many vicissitudes called the <i>Theatre de Monsieur</i>. Impresario had ambitious plans to present on stage Italian opera, French, French art and the French vaudeville (vaudevilles a Caractères). The theater was opened in 1789 in January and assumed an annual activity. Unfortunately, this scene did not survive because of the revolutionary turmoil.<br />
There is little information about what happened to Leonard during the Revolution in France. It is known that his brother Jean Francois accompanied the Duke de Choiseul during unfortunately escape the king to Varennes, was captured and executed on the guillotine in 1794.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-C4a19yU_-Mg/WIjYMLEGW_I/AAAAAAAAGB4/lyYr7gpMQmkcGAEmeizn0YFsqQU1I0MHACLcB/s1600/Teafilija_Sapieha._%25D0%25A2%25D1%258D%25D0%25B0%25D1%2584%25D1%2596%25D0%25BB%25D1%2596%25D1%258F_%25D0%25A1%25D0%25B0%25D0%25BF%25D0%25B5%25D0%25B3%25D0%25B0.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-C4a19yU_-Mg/WIjYMLEGW_I/AAAAAAAAGB4/lyYr7gpMQmkcGAEmeizn0YFsqQU1I0MHACLcB/s320/Teafilija_Sapieha._%25D0%25A2%25D1%258D%25D0%25B0%25D1%2584%25D1%2596%25D0%25BB%25D1%2596%25D1%258F_%25D0%25A1%25D0%25B0%25D0%25BF%25D0%25B5%25D0%25B3%25D0%25B0.jpg" width="243" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A. Gore, Portret Teofili Sapiechy z Jabłonowskich, 1775, <a href="http://a_sapieha.xn--__-7kcbarn9bzbshz9i5a7hb.jpg/#mw-jump-to-license">Wawel</a>, Portratit of Teofila Sapiecha Jabłonowska a Polish magnate lady, 1775</td></tr>
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Leonard uciekał z Francji po arsztowaniu rodziny królewskiej, nie jest jasne gdzie przebywał, istnieją przekazy jakoby uciekł do Rosji. Do Francji wrócił w 1814 roku, zmarł w 1820.<br />
Leonard ożenił się w 1779 roku i miał 3 córki i jednego syna, nie pozostawił testamentu, nie wiadomo czy zachował majątek czy też go stracił podczas rewolucji. Jedyną pozostałością po splendorach królewskiego fryzjera zaświadczała broszka z feniksem prawdopodobny prezent od Marii Antoniny.<br />
Leonard miał pozostawić po sobie wspomnienia ale badaczekwestionują ich autentyczność.<br />
<i>Souvenirs de Léonard, coiffeur de la reine Marie-Antoinette </i>wydane zostały pośmiertnie w 1833 przez Alphonse Levavasseur'a. Mimo tego ci sami badacze powołują się na te wspomnienia. Levavasseur miał otrzymać luźne karty zapisanych wspomnień i sam dokonywać odpowiedniej korekty. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5cUFMjf9hDg/WIjbLtdav2I/AAAAAAAAGCE/aurqninIh9cAj4UAqpLPbjy5VNF3pmNMgCLcB/s1600/4983_0.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5cUFMjf9hDg/WIjbLtdav2I/AAAAAAAAGCE/aurqninIh9cAj4UAqpLPbjy5VNF3pmNMgCLcB/s320/4983_0.jpg" width="247" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://zbiory.muzeumsztuki.pl/node/16697">Quesaquo, J. Faworski, Portret młodej kobiety, datowanie moje 1789/ Polish painting of Jóżef Faworski, Polish young lady with Leonardo's Quesaquo. </a></td></tr>
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Leonard fled from France after aresting royal family, it is not clear where he was staying, there are messages allegedly fled to Russia. He returned to France in 1814, died in 1820.<br />
Leonard got married in 1779 and had three daughters and one son, no will, it is not known whether the retained property or lost it during the revolution. The only remnant of the Royal Coiffeur testified splendorach brooch with phoenix likely a gift from Marie Antoinette.<br />
Leonard had to leave behind memories but researches are not sure their authenticity.<br />
<i>Souvenirs de Léonard, coiffeur de la reine Marie-Antoinette</i> were published posthumously in 1833 by Alphonse Levavasseur. Despite this, these same researchers refer to these memories. Levavasseur was to receive loose cards stored memories and himself to make appropriate adjustments.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hSGvbWCo7Rg/WIjXlbSAnlI/AAAAAAAAGB0/fZvOAVAswEsTQlEShk6EWc30OJ9cn_u3wCLcB/s1600/Art_du_perruquier_contenant_la_%255B...%255DGarsault_Fran%25EF%25BF%25BDois-Alexandre-Pierre_bpt6k107859q.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hSGvbWCo7Rg/WIjXlbSAnlI/AAAAAAAAGB0/fZvOAVAswEsTQlEShk6EWc30OJ9cn_u3wCLcB/s320/Art_du_perruquier_contenant_la_%255B...%255DGarsault_Fran%25EF%25BF%25BDois-Alexandre-Pierre_bpt6k107859q.jpeg" width="221" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">F. Garsault, L'Art du Perruquieur, Paris, 1769<br /><a href="http://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k107859q/f56.item">BNF</a></td></tr>
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Warto wspomniec, że kobiety nie nosiły peruk, wszystkie fryzury powstawały na bazie własnych wlosów, używano również doczepianych loków. Używano również kosmetyków do włosów - pudru z maki pszenicy (<i>farine de froment) </i>oraz <i>pommade</i> <i>forte. </i>W jej skład wchodził talk oraz substancja natłuszczająca np. mielone migdały i pachnące zioła. Antonine Le Camus wymienia w swojej <i>Abdecker or the Art .... </i>wydanej w 1761 różne rodzaje pomady: Pomatum Simple, Lawendowa, Jaśminowa itp. Pomady mieszało się w ręce i delikatnie nakładano na włosy. Do formowania loków używano żelaznych szczypców (<i>fer) </i>papilotów z papieru <i>(papillote) </i>lub do wlosów długich <i>papillote tortille. </i><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-EJK_4M3WBN8/WIjW2xXcZ_I/AAAAAAAAGBs/iCyIUFcW-BMBqfgEz5KQSQcrS2nmFnuVwCLcB/s1600/dchartres.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-EJK_4M3WBN8/WIjW2xXcZ_I/AAAAAAAAGBs/iCyIUFcW-BMBqfgEz5KQSQcrS2nmFnuVwCLcB/s320/dchartres.jpg" width="260" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.batguano.com/catno6.html">Duchesse de Chartres, 1778</a></td></tr>
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atelierpolonaisehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12221915032674869681noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8315684709486567201.post-55749107077294988912016-09-17T18:54:00.003+02:002016-09-17T19:05:24.354+02:00Poselstwo Tipu Sahiba - ubiory, cz.II; Tipu Sahib ambassadors, part II<div style="text-align: center;">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-swgN3CPvvn4/V905mpAk6wI/AAAAAAAAF8g/OhvSrSLF8Q0YUWzQvXBm97lJXJmPmbPrwCLcB/s1600/011-0002-176.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-swgN3CPvvn4/V905mpAk6wI/AAAAAAAAF8g/OhvSrSLF8Q0YUWzQvXBm97lJXJmPmbPrwCLcB/s320/011-0002-176.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://digital.bunka.ac.jp/kichosho/file/No.011/011-0002-176.jpg">Magasin des Modes ... , 1788</a></td></tr>
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<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="">Przybycie do Paryża ambasadorów sułtana Majsuru- Tippo Sahiba w 1788,wywołało wielkie poruszenie i ciekawość przybyszami, spowodowało to we Francji fascynację Indiami znaną jako Indomanię. Przełożyło się to przede wszystkim w rzemiośle. Jak można się domyślić także paryskie żurnale mody relacjonowały pobyt ambasadorów w Paryżu. W numerze z dnia 20 sierpnia 1788 roku dziennikarz pyta się, co przyniesie wizyta "francuskiemu przemysłowi mody",który stał się "sterylny" i spodziewany na każdy sezon. Na planszy żurnala widać suknie w stylu <i>a la Tipu Saib</i></span></span></div>
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<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="">przedstawione jako <i>redingote a l'indienne </i>a do tego nakrycia głowy</span></span><span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class=""> <i>baigneuse a la Veuve du Malabar.</i> Nagle suknie francuskie czy angielskie, czy <i>caraco</i> przerobiły się na <i>a la Tipo Sahib. </i></span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7c4b5C2KuJc/V91D4cGpSjI/AAAAAAAAF8w/K59Y2VlM3xAqDoHXHa1faNMdfBaDZRpwQCLcB/s1600/011-0002-170.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7c4b5C2KuJc/V91D4cGpSjI/AAAAAAAAF8w/K59Y2VlM3xAqDoHXHa1faNMdfBaDZRpwQCLcB/s320/011-0002-170.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://digital.bunka.ac.jp/kichosho/file/No.011/011-0002-170.jpg">Magasin de Modes ...,1788</a></td></tr>
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<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="">Plansza przedstawia <i>robe a l'a Greque</i> w stylu indyjskim. Nakrycia głowy z gazy i kwiatów z materiału. Dwa nakrycia głowy inspirowane stylem <i>a la Tipo Sahib. </i>Jedna z nich nosi <i>caraco des taffetas violet et fichu de gaze. </i></span></span><br />
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<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="">Z kolei niemiecki żurnal <i><a href="http://zs.thulb.uni-jena.de/receive/jportal_jpvolume_00055108">Journal der Luxus und der Moden</a>,</i>także notował przybycie poselstwa Tipo Sahiba do Paryża. List korespondenta z Paryża z dnia 10 lipca 1788 roku donosił: </span></span><br />
<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class=""><i>Paryska publiczność ma dużo nowości i zabawy wraz z przybyciem do Paryża trzech ambasadorów Tipo Sahiba, którzy 9 czerwca przybyli do Tulonu.Przybyli oni na audiencję do Wersalu i z tej okazji wszędzie organizowano festyny, jak ten w pięknym Palais Royal. Pan Blanchard z tej okazji wypuścił balon w ogrodach Tuilleirie. (...)także moda nawiązuje do ostatnich wydarzeń. </i></span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XSZI4rAnaqY/V91RDNUbCHI/AAAAAAAAF9A/oaIq36mnhDYfP3JvGj35al19dhy7It9gQCLcB/s1600/1910703.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="210" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XSZI4rAnaqY/V91RDNUbCHI/AAAAAAAAF9A/oaIq36mnhDYfP3JvGj35al19dhy7It9gQCLcB/s320/1910703.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://zs.thulb.uni-jena.de/rsc/viewer/jportal_derivate_00107462/JLM_1788_H008_0013_a.tif">Journal des Luxus und der Moden, August, 1788</a></td></tr>
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Na planszy pokazano dwie postacie, druga ubrana jest <i>Bonnet a la Sultane, wykonany z białego atłasu i z papieru. </i>Postać ma na sobie suknię<i> robe a la Turque z tafty a rayes ombrees. </i><br />
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Jeszcze raz korenspondent Journal des Luxus und der Moden, donosił w liście z Paryża do redakcji we wrześniu 1788:<br />
<i>Tak jak w poprzednim liście z lipca, Paryżanie nadal nie mówią o niczym innym jak o pobycie ambasadorów Tipo Sahiba w Paryżu, który to dokonał istnej rewolucji w modzie. Także od 3 tygodni mamy tutaj: Robes a la Tipoo-Saib, Redingotes a l'Indienne, Bonnet-Turbans a l'Indienne, Bagneuses a la Veuve de Malabar, w skrócie wszytsko jest a la Tippo-Saib lub a l'Indienne, wszystkie poufs (pufy) i inne nakrycia głowy przyjęły orientalne formy. Naszych osiem Paryżanek przebywa teraz w Bengalu, w Malabarze, na Cejlonie czy gdziekolwiek indziej.* </i><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://digital.ub.uni-duesseldorf.de/ihd/periodical/pageview/1910795">Journal des Luxus und Moden, September, 1788</a></td></tr>
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Plansza przedstawia najnowszy ubiór kobiecy <i>Sourtus oder Staubrocke, wygodny do poróży jak również jako Neglige czy ubiór poranny (Morgen Kleidung). Uszyty z szarej tafty, z podwójnym różowym kołnierzem. Spódnica uszyta z haftowanego muślinu. Do porannych strojów Neglige mozna nosić halsztuk (Halstuch). Do tego stroju poleca się nakrycia głowy jak Dormeuse, Baigneuse lub inną prostą fryzurę. Nasza modelka nosi jednak najowszej mody Turban a la Sultane. </i></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://digital.ub.uni-duesseldorf.de/ihd/periodical/pageview/1910797">Journal des Luxus und der Moden, Sptember, 1788</a></td></tr>
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Ostatnia plansza z tego numeru, przedstawia nakrycia glowy. Po prawej stronie modelka prezentuje <i>Pouf a la Turque z niebieskiej krepy, taśma zdobiąca nakrycie głowy w paski kolorze melonu (couleur de Melon) i zieleni. Z tyłu poadający welon haftowany w kwiaty. </i></div>
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Podsumowywyując, można uznać, że wpływ ten na ubiory był raczej niewielki, istniały juz przecież stroje a la Turque. Wydaje sie zatem, że tylko redingote a l'Indienne było czymś nowym. Redingote zazwyczaj szyto z grubszych tkanin, jako, że było one zaliczne do strojów wierzchnich chociaż noszono je także w pomieszczeniach. Redingote a l' Indienne szyto zatem z lekkich tkanin indyjskich, które miały naśladować stroje noszone przez posłów Tipo Sahiba. Więcej wpływów da się zauważyć w nakryciach głowy i akcesoriach jak: pióra, noszenie szarfy wiązanej w pasie w sukniach, ozdabianie diamentami i brylantami swoich kapeluszy. I oczywiście namiętne szycie strojów z lekkich tkanin bawełnianych sprawdzanych z Indii. Nie mniej poselstwo to wywarło duże wrażenie na Paryżanach o czym pisano także w innych krajach. W pamiętnikach tego okresu także było wspominane. Najsłynniejsza w tym czasie malarka Elizabeth Vigee - Lebrun, miała okazję do namalowania portretów trzem posłom i później była zaproszona na obiad. Zachował sie tylko jeden portret ambasadora Muhammada Darvesh Khana, który dziś znajduje się w prywatnej kolekcji, gdzie jest reszta? Być może w innych prywatnych kolekcjach. Warto zwrócić uwagę na ten zachowany portret - malarka pięknie przedstawiła portetowanego w stroju, który tak zachwycał Paryżan i który był póżniej naśladowany. Biała muslinowa delikatna tkanina podkreśla finezyjność i elegancję stroju, ambasador przpasany jest złoto - białą szarfą i narzucił na siebie szate wierzchnią tkaną lub malowaną w kwiaty. Na głowie nosi biały turban a w ręku trzyma dumnie szablę (?). </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aI-b8OB6RfQ/V91s0_WDMZI/AAAAAAAAF9s/QgGAESmNl4k9yGOuvyAcG0KMBmeP-B65wCLcB/s1600/440px-Mohammed_Dervish_Khan_by_Elizabeth_Vigee_Lebrun.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aI-b8OB6RfQ/V91s0_WDMZI/AAAAAAAAF9s/QgGAESmNl4k9yGOuvyAcG0KMBmeP-B65wCLcB/s320/440px-Mohammed_Dervish_Khan_by_Elizabeth_Vigee_Lebrun.jpg" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.wikiwand.com/fr/Alliance_franco-indienne_(Inde)">E.Vigee - Leburn, Portret Muhammada Darvesh Khana, 1788, kolekcja prywatna</a></td></tr>
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A tak pracę nad portretami wspomina malarka: </div>
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<i>Skoro mówię o ambasadorach, nie chcę zapomnieć o opowiedzeniu pani, jak malowałam dwóch dyplomatów, którzy chociaż miedziani, mieli tak wspaniałe głowy. W 1788 roku cesarz Tippoo Sahib przysłał ambasadorów do Paryża. Ujrzałam tych Indian w Operze i wydali mi się tak niezwykle malowniczy, ze chciałam ich sportretować Tłumacz powiadomiony o miom pragnieniu poinformował mnie, że tylko wówczas pozwola się malowac, gdy to życzenie wyrazi król, i uzyskałam te łaskę od Jego Królewskiej Mości. Udałam się do hotelu, gdzie mieszkali (chcieli bowiem być malowani u siebie), z dużymi płótnami i farbami. Gdy weszłam do salonu, jeden z Indian przyniósł wody różanej i zrosił mi ręce; potem wyższy, który zwał się Davich Khan, zaczął mi pozować. Namalowałam jego portret "en pied"; trzymał sztylet w ręku. Draperie, ręce, wszytsko wykonałam według modela, pozował mi z taką ochotą. Pozostawiłam ten obraz do wyschnięcia w innym salonie i rozpoczęłam portret starego ambasadora, którego przedsatwiałam w pozycji siedzącej razem z synem obok. Zwłaszcza ojciec miał wspaniałą głowę. Obydwaj byli ubrani w suknie z białego muślinu w złote kwiaty, a te suknie, coś w rodzaju tunik z szerokimi rękawami plisowanymi w poprzek, przytrzymywały bogato zdobione paski. Skończyłam wówczas całkowicie ten obraz z wyjątkiem tła i dołu sukien. (...) </i></div>
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<i>Zaprosili nas obydwie na obiad, a my przyjęliśmy zaproszenie powodowane ciekawością. Gdy weszłyśmy do sali jadalnej, ogarnęło nas niejakie zdziwienie na widok obiadu podanego na podłodze, co zmusiło nas do zajęcia pozycji niemal leżącej, takiej samej jak oni. Podawali nam potrawy rękami, biorąc je z półmisków, z których jeden zawierał potrawke z nóżek baranich w białym sosie bardzo korzennym, a drugi jakies duszone mięso. Jak pani się domyślasz, smutny to był posiłek; zbyt duży wstręt budził w nas widok ich brązowych rąk, którymi posługiwali się jak łyżkami. </i></div>
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<i>* W tekście jest aluzja do bardzo popularnej i znanej ówczesnie powieści Les Parisiennes Mr. Retif de la Bretonne wydanej w 1787 roku w 4 tomach z ilustracjami. Ilustracje te przedstawiają modnie ubrane Paryżanki. Każda mieszkanka Paryża po przeczytaniu tej książki utożsamiała się z jej bohaterkami. Autorem <a href="http://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k10503685">Les Parisiennes</a> był <a href="https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nicolas-Edme_R%C3%A9tif">Nicolas Edme Restif de La Bretonne</a>. </i></div>
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Bibliografia: </div>
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Meredith Martin, <i>Tipu Sultan's Ambassadors at Saint - Cloud: Indomania and Anglophobia in Pre- Revolutionary Paris</i>, w: West 86th, Vol. 21, No. 1 (Spring - Summer, 2014), s. 37 - 68</div>
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Louise - Elisabeth Vigee - Lebrun, <i>Wspomnienia</i>, Warszawa, 1977, s. 52 - 53</div>
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<i>Journal des Luxus und der Moden,</i> 1788, August, September, s. 317 - 331; 401- 408 </div>
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<i>Magasin des modes nouvelles francaises et anglaises</i>, 1788</div>
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atelierpolonaisehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12221915032674869681noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8315684709486567201.post-22752383592217046392016-09-17T14:36:00.000+02:002016-09-17T19:11:11.381+02:00Poselstwo Tipo Sahiba w Paryżu i co z tego wyszło, cz I, Tipu Sahib Ambassadors in Paris,1788,Part I<div style="text-align: center;">
<b>Here I wrote about well known Tipu Sahib ambassadors in Paris,1788. </b><br />
<b>I do not translation because I know my English not corretly and many blogs wrote about Tipo Sahib relation with France and it's influences on to fashion. </b><br />
<b><span class="" id="result_box" lang="en">It is a small part of what I wrote in my <span class="">doctoral thesis.</span></span></b><br />
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Sierpień roku 1788 dostarczył Paryżanom wielu wrażeń, jednym z nich było przybycie na dwór Ludwika XVI poselstwa z krainy rodem z Baśni tysiąca i jednej nocy. Poselstwo miało ważną sprawę do załatwienia związaną z polityką sułtana królestwa Majsuru - Tipo Sahiba. Echa tej wizyty słyszalne były prawie we wszystkich krajach ówczesnej Europy, rozmawiano o tym na spotkaniach, w teatrze czy podczas posiłków. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qmHUTqmL3NM/V90umMoppdI/AAAAAAAAF8E/nzhzluOpaCgBKvcUmerCpKsCRwMRp7VLACLcB/s1600/Tipu_Sultan_BL.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qmHUTqmL3NM/V90umMoppdI/AAAAAAAAF8E/nzhzluOpaCgBKvcUmerCpKsCRwMRp7VLACLcB/s320/Tipu_Sultan_BL.jpg" width="262" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Tipu_Sultan_BL.jpg">Portret Tippu Shiba, sułtana Majsuru,1792, British Library,London</a></td></tr>
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Tipo Sahib (Tippoo Sahib) - 1750 - 1799, był sułtanem królestwa Majsuru ( Kingdom of Mysore), nazywany także jako Tygrys Majsuru. Stał się znany z oporu przeciwko dominacji kolonialnej z Brytyjczykami. Był to władca wykształcony, zajmował się poezją, była także językoznawcą. Jednak znany jest przede wszystkim z waleczności i nieugiętej postawy wobec Anglików. Brał udział w 4 wojnach majsurskich (wojny z Anglikami) razem ze swoim ojcem (do 1782). Zginął w czasie obrony swojej stolicy Srirangapatna 4 maja 1799. </div>
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Sprzymierzeńcami Tippu Sahiba byli Francuzi, którzy za wszelką cenę chcieli odegrać się na nich za zabranie im ich kolonii potwierdzone traktatem paryskim w 1768 roku. W 1788 sułtan wysłał swoich trzech zaufanych ambasadorów na spotkanie z Ludwikiem XVI aby zaproponować mu przymierze przeciwko angielskim koloniom oraz nawiązać stosunki gospodarczo - handlowe.<br />
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16 lipca 1788 roku poselstwo to przybywa do Paryża i od razu wzbudza wielkie zainteresowanie. W poselstwie tym brało udział trzech ambasadorów - Muhammad Darvesh Khan, Akbar Ali Khan i Muhammad Ousman Khan, którzy w Paryżu spędzili 3 miesiące. Przez ten czas w stolicy Francji zapanowała istna Indomania. Paryscy artyści zaczęli zaś produkować porcelanę, portrety, w tym figury woskowe, biżuterię oraz stroje w stylu indyjskim pod wpływem poselstwa.<br />
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Najciekawszym ikonograficznie źródłem do rozpoznania tego wpływu jest mało rozpoznany gwasz Charlesa Eloi Asselina, malarza i projektanta porcelany z fabryki Sevres.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9gmIhLwktL4/V90sIPx1uqI/AAAAAAAAF7w/7RieCrFmGKEocXm_V-QyGSfN61EBIYJ6ACEw/s1600/Louis_XVI_Receives_the_Ambassadors_of_Tipu_Sultan_1788_Voyer_after_Emile_Wattier_19th_century.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="236" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9gmIhLwktL4/V90sIPx1uqI/AAAAAAAAF7w/7RieCrFmGKEocXm_V-QyGSfN61EBIYJ6ACEw/s320/Louis_XVI_Receives_the_Ambassadors_of_Tipu_Sultan_1788_Voyer_after_Emile_Wattier_19th_century.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Louis_XVI_Receives_the_Ambassadors_of_Tipu_Sultan_1788_Voyer_after_Emile_Wattier_19th_century.jpg">E. Vatteau, Przyjęcie poselstwa Tippu Sahiba przez Ludwika XVI</a></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Bxr1lWCbLkQ/V90eDyCvVvI/AAAAAAAAF7M/CmMZs0SgWcQk9606982XEF54q8tqz62hwCLcB/s1600/reception-for-ambassadors-of-tiphoo-sahib-or-tipu-sultan-in-the-saint-BFRDBF.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="234" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Bxr1lWCbLkQ/V90eDyCvVvI/AAAAAAAAF7M/CmMZs0SgWcQk9606982XEF54q8tqz62hwCLcB/s320/reception-for-ambassadors-of-tiphoo-sahib-or-tipu-sultan-in-the-saint-BFRDBF.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.blogger.com/"><span id="goog_955799691"></span>Ch.E.Asselin, Przybycie poselstwa do Saint - Cloud, 18 sierpień, 1788, gwasz, Cite de la Ceramique, Sevres, France.<span id="goog_955799692"></span></a><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;">Scena odbywa się w ogrodach zamku Saint - Cloud, w dniu kiedy poselstwo zostało przyjęte przez Ludwika XVI. </span><span style="font-size: small;">Na obrazie widać trzech ambasadorów w otoczeniu ministra opiekującym się zacnymi gośćmi, obok widać także czarnoskórego służącego ubranego w liberię. Goście ubrani w swoje zwiewne białe szaty haftowane złotem, na głowie zaś noszą turbany. Obok nich za to tworzy się istne pandemonium złożone z ciekawskich spacerowiczów. </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcXc8cCnuvNCh9q9f8LARFTLqaup7Y00AbR5Yi_8MAZ-Xm4opVzGbIHov8AKYbFdXqLNMDSQD97QU-as6zSd3iv17J6g1DBxB9xv-aL___cqAgBlH_6cEYpJ_kgTmbJnU_8KjqxrRaFVOP/s1600/reception-for-ambassadors-of-tiphoo-sahib-or-tipu-sultan-in-the-saint-BFRDBM.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcXc8cCnuvNCh9q9f8LARFTLqaup7Y00AbR5Yi_8MAZ-Xm4opVzGbIHov8AKYbFdXqLNMDSQD97QU-as6zSd3iv17J6g1DBxB9xv-aL___cqAgBlH_6cEYpJ_kgTmbJnU_8KjqxrRaFVOP/s320/reception-for-ambassadors-of-tiphoo-sahib-or-tipu-sultan-in-the-saint-BFRDBM.jpg" width="233" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Na obrazie widać kilka grup energicznie rozmawiających na temat gości. W dniu ich przyjęcia poszła po Paryżu plotka, że goście mają na sobie i ze sobą trzy tony diamentów, niektóre wielkości gołębich jaj a niektóre małe wielkości orzecha włoskiego. Damy ubrane typowe dla tego okresu suknie i kapelusze,mają także duże kolorowe parasole niektóre kobiety mają ze sobą lornetki inne zaś dyskutują w małych grupkach. </span><br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BLydjErqsSk/V90nLDQOAlI/AAAAAAAAF7g/ZusuKp98jAsgMBWcb3sDbpbjAX6ET88dwCLcB/s1600/406e967350b052d9d10450bcfabaf0cc.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BLydjErqsSk/V90nLDQOAlI/AAAAAAAAF7g/ZusuKp98jAsgMBWcb3sDbpbjAX6ET88dwCLcB/s320/406e967350b052d9d10450bcfabaf0cc.jpg" width="320" /></a><span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: small;">Po lewej stronie widać wysoki żywopłot a na nim rozwieszone stragany marszandów tkanin. Jedni siedzą, drudzy się denerwują, że im się przeszkadza, część tkanin leży na ziemi, dzieci się wyrywają chcąc zobaczyć co się dzieje. W oddali jednak widać spacerujące pary, kłaniających się Panów i siedzące po prawej stronie Panie na trawniku. W oddali widać także karetę, którą jechali ambasadorzy. To jeden z najciekawszych obrazów ukazujący życie codzienne przed rewolucyjnej Francji. </span>
<span style="font-size: small;">Gwasz Asselina wystawiony został w Salonie w 1791 roku, badacze jednak uważają ,ze to nie tylko dokument z życia codziennego lecz także ukazuje związki gospodarczo -polityczne pomiędzy Francją a Anglią. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;">Koniec cz.I </span><br />
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atelierpolonaisehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12221915032674869681noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8315684709486567201.post-76124859243013878832016-08-04T12:28:00.000+02:002016-08-04T12:29:39.565+02:00Empire brassiere. Empirowy stanik - gorset.<div style="text-align: center;">
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Mój nowy gorset w stylu empirowym jest strzałem w dziesiątkę. Bardzo wygodny zwłaszcza tam gdzie brakuje garderobianych - można bardzo szybko go założyc i jest wygodny pomimo brykli. Ładnie także uwydatnia kształty.<br />
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My new style bodice empire is one the best of them. Very convenient especially where I haven't any who can helped me to wear a gorset. You can very quickly wear it and is comfortable despite small busk. Nicely also enhances shapes.<br />
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Szyłam go jak zawsze ręcznie ze zwykłej bawełny z podwójną warstwą. Miseczki na biust także są wykonane z podwójnej bawełny. </div>
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Empirowy gorset jest próbą odtworzenia zachowanego gorseciku datowanego na lata 1790 - 1800.<br />
I sewed it as always by hand with ordinary cotton with a double layer. The cups for bust are also made from double cotton.<br />
Empire bodice is an attempt to restore the preserved and dated for the years 1790-1800.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Original regency bra, http://www.extantgowns.com/2015/05/regency-era-bra.html </td></tr>
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Ciekawa jest konstrukcja samego gorsetu: miseczki na biust, które pojawiają się już wcześniej bo od lat 90 XVIII wieku oraz konstrukcja tyłu, która jest złożona z dwóch części, które ze sobą się krzyżują, dodatkowo jest dziurka aby można było wygodniej zapiąc gorset. Moje zapięcie składa się z haftek. Podobne rozwiązania gorsetowe publikowała już Sabine z Kleidung um 1800. Wykrój wykonałam sama na podstawie zdjęc zamieszonych oryginalnego gorseciku a tył z konstrukcji tego gorsetu.<br />
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Also of interest is the design of the corset: bust cups that appear of the late of eighteenth century and the rear structure, which is composed of two parts which intersect with each other, in addition to a hole to be able to conveniently fasten a corset. My clasp consists of hooks. Similar solutions ware published already Sabine from Kleidung um 1800 and my pattern is based from her pattern for the short stays.<br />
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atelierpolonaisehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12221915032674869681noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8315684709486567201.post-16665313510488994232016-07-28T21:33:00.000+02:002016-07-28T21:33:01.445+02:00Porcelanowe skarby w Muzeum Narodowym w Gdańsku<div style="text-align: center;">
Ostatnio odwiedziłam znowu Muzeum Narodowe w Gdańsku przy okazji obejrzenia rysunków Daniela Chodowieckiego do Elementarza Basedowa i dokryłam na nowo starą nie odświeżaną wystawę porcelany. Te niezwykle ciekawe zbiory są tylko resztką po dawnych bogatych Gdańszczanach ale wiele mówią o kulturze tego miasta. Wiekszość zbiorów datuje się na XVIII i XIX wiek.<br />
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Last I visited again the National Museum in Gdansk, by the way look at drawings Daniel Chodowiecki for Basedov's Elementary and I vsited old exhibition about porcelain. Most of the collection dates back to the eighteenth and nineteenth century.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEic_tmjEpkzBEdYNoCGYb2XQNBdir2MsAFNpKSPYUL6-f7TJ8tdPP-Rgz0H07_nWz5PQc9ywvNNyQGpLQvLAzdiJK2Wh6kTgbLrCz38tF3teSHpsXorLIZtSfWQNGMU8vvtlf9xT0Ilmend/s1600/20160721_133548.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEic_tmjEpkzBEdYNoCGYb2XQNBdir2MsAFNpKSPYUL6-f7TJ8tdPP-Rgz0H07_nWz5PQc9ywvNNyQGpLQvLAzdiJK2Wh6kTgbLrCz38tF3teSHpsXorLIZtSfWQNGMU8vvtlf9xT0Ilmend/s320/20160721_133548.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kałamarz skrzynkowy w formie kolunmady, poł, XVIII wieku</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RPLBwzqOPGg/V5Y9l-w1v0I/AAAAAAAAFz4/ky-CdYEBMP8azY3YFzmy4SvQ7FA7121hwCLcB/s1600/20160721_134027.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RPLBwzqOPGg/V5Y9l-w1v0I/AAAAAAAAFz4/ky-CdYEBMP8azY3YFzmy4SvQ7FA7121hwCLcB/s320/20160721_134027.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kałamarz skrzynkowy, XVIII wiek</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lQr50nlz_wg/V5Y949LcRYI/AAAAAAAAF0A/YSEquTyQPsABJllGFNGdD3DkbKNfMM_VACLcB/s1600/20160721_133902.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lQr50nlz_wg/V5Y949LcRYI/AAAAAAAAF0A/YSEquTyQPsABJllGFNGdD3DkbKNfMM_VACLcB/s320/20160721_133902.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kufel do piwa z wizerunkiem może właściciela, 1768, wyrób gdański</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-td0cFxbANCU/V5Y-WJZdkcI/AAAAAAAAF0I/-6c3pFmfv6AmhLAAtTX4KanXozZXdIOWQCLcB/s1600/20160721_134359.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-td0cFxbANCU/V5Y-WJZdkcI/AAAAAAAAF0I/-6c3pFmfv6AmhLAAtTX4KanXozZXdIOWQCLcB/s320/20160721_134359.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kufel do piwa z wizerunkiem tańczących egzotycznych postaci z napisem "Każda ryba należy do mnie", wyrób niemiecki, 1745 - 1747 </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1Spj2lky5KE/V5Y_VN2HxUI/AAAAAAAAF0U/_H0Y_z2w5784eLSz9Iv8AoCEhOLu4HiSACLcB/s1600/20160721_134559.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1Spj2lky5KE/V5Y_VN2HxUI/AAAAAAAAF0U/_H0Y_z2w5784eLSz9Iv8AoCEhOLu4HiSACLcB/s320/20160721_134559.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Porcelanowa lampka nocna, brak przykkrywki, do środka wkładano świeczkę, porcelana ze Stralsundu, 1767 - 1770</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vBqTBoZz5tM/V5ZAIauPQdI/AAAAAAAAF0g/WJF4SzuFLIgbth7GXR7G8Vhn1S0NqzxWACLcB/s1600/20160721_134619.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vBqTBoZz5tM/V5ZAIauPQdI/AAAAAAAAF0g/WJF4SzuFLIgbth7GXR7G8Vhn1S0NqzxWACLcB/s320/20160721_134619.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Waza na wonności, zioła i kwiaty zmieszane z solą, brakuje pokrywy z dziurkami poprzez które wychodziły wonności. Na podstawie wazy królik i schody, wyrób szwedzki, 1774 </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aC5W1PhZpmI/V5ZA_uYH6oI/AAAAAAAAF0s/yMc8VRlSA6EB_-mxvAlpova0kwsTVjXgACLcB/s1600/20160721_134715.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aC5W1PhZpmI/V5ZA_uYH6oI/AAAAAAAAF0s/yMc8VRlSA6EB_-mxvAlpova0kwsTVjXgACLcB/s320/20160721_134715.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Naczynie na przyprawy, słoiczki zagineły, wyrób francuski, I poł. XVIII wieku. </td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ee5WHMXd8DE/V5ZBfX5kJbI/AAAAAAAAF0w/j13yFAOmrxoePzDJJSHptSUZ61RBko1tQCLcB/s1600/20160721_134730.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ee5WHMXd8DE/V5ZBfX5kJbI/AAAAAAAAF0w/j13yFAOmrxoePzDJJSHptSUZ61RBko1tQCLcB/s320/20160721_134730.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wazonik na kwiaty, w otwory umieszczano pojedyncze kwiatowe łodygi, Francja, I poł. XVIII wieku. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Q9ZC4IufKg0/V5pYaOuIZMI/AAAAAAAAF1E/-Ce7L5aKgT4iLINVAHx5hL47xcx-DGKygCLcB/s1600/20160721_134801.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Q9ZC4IufKg0/V5pYaOuIZMI/AAAAAAAAF1E/-Ce7L5aKgT4iLINVAHx5hL47xcx-DGKygCLcB/s320/20160721_134801.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Waza do zupy, poł. XVIII w. </td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Vo8ZOe3GUAM/V5pZJukG_yI/AAAAAAAAF1I/ooZ1eoOVECsXboTWKIdiG6vPajS5z0aiQCLcB/s1600/20160721_135419.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Vo8ZOe3GUAM/V5pZJukG_yI/AAAAAAAAF1I/ooZ1eoOVECsXboTWKIdiG6vPajS5z0aiQCLcB/s320/20160721_135419.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dzbanuszek do czekolady, Berlin, 1770</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-spe6epyX2v4/V5pZv59EynI/AAAAAAAAF1U/CXAE8q64SlwER35d2qjJE984qYl4QhaQgCLcB/s1600/20160721_135554.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-spe6epyX2v4/V5pZv59EynI/AAAAAAAAF1U/CXAE8q64SlwER35d2qjJE984qYl4QhaQgCLcB/s320/20160721_135554.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Klasycystyczna patera na czekoladki, pocz. XIX w. Berlin</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-o09WflBB_gI/V5paaqe7TbI/AAAAAAAAF1c/vd_idJBnqfoJ2SNQl-pTWg9hwkULjQy5gCLcB/s1600/20160721_135644.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-o09WflBB_gI/V5paaqe7TbI/AAAAAAAAF1c/vd_idJBnqfoJ2SNQl-pTWg9hwkULjQy5gCLcB/s320/20160721_135644.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Najpiękniejsza filiżanka w zbiorach, pocz. XIX wieku</td></tr>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-B5CB8FI2_3g/V5pavmAvNCI/AAAAAAAAF1k/6327wW_-3dU4gLcmwlRfoh3qNvmAxhO7QCLcB/s1600/20160721_140012.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-B5CB8FI2_3g/V5pavmAvNCI/AAAAAAAAF1k/6327wW_-3dU4gLcmwlRfoh3qNvmAxhO7QCLcB/s320/20160721_140012.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hTUCfgArIBc/V5pa3rCaWwI/AAAAAAAAF1o/qd6yBSAWvY4w75MJST2SuXvyS3lXjY2vwCLcB/s1600/20160721_140012.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hTUCfgArIBc/V5pa3rCaWwI/AAAAAAAAF1o/qd6yBSAWvY4w75MJST2SuXvyS3lXjY2vwCLcB/s320/20160721_140012.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Spodek bez filiżanki należący do gen. Rappa, bardzo współczesny ornament. </td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-igKm0z4GFiU/V5pbN5yCYLI/AAAAAAAAF1w/9IWnHoukm_Irh7cbwIUgDrKTW0ErHoyJwCLcB/s1600/20160721_140034.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-igKm0z4GFiU/V5pbN5yCYLI/AAAAAAAAF1w/9IWnHoukm_Irh7cbwIUgDrKTW0ErHoyJwCLcB/s320/20160721_140034.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Niebieska - biała filiżanka typu <i>trembleuse, </i>przeznaczona dla starszych ludzi, pocz. XIX wieku</td></tr>
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atelierpolonaisehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12221915032674869681noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8315684709486567201.post-81574950414814365552016-06-23T21:32:00.000+02:002016-06-23T21:32:48.303+02:00To be or not to be. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Tak długo nic się nie działo na blogu, że zastanawiam się, czy warto jeszcze pisywac tutaj. Niestety na razie zawieszam działanośc bloga, na jak długo - nie wiem. Niestety nie mam chęci ani "polotu"aby zajmowac się tym nadal. Jesli mam byc szczera, zabawy w przebieranki oraz wszelkie "rekonstrukcje" przestają mnie bawic a zarazem zaczynaja nudzic. Mam wrażenie ogólnej bylejakości, braku wiedzy i determinacji aby "rekonstrukcja" była rzeczywiście "dogłębna". Brakuje mi naukowej bazy kostiumologicznej a co za tym idzie, popularyzacji na wyższym poziomie a nie na zasadzie "zabawimy się w rymcerzy i księżniczki". Większośc zabaw polegam bowiem na pstrykaniu zdjęc i wstawianiu ich w "publikum". W pewnym momencie staje się to już nużące i nudne. Rozwój, rozwój i jeszcze raz rozwój. </div>
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So far nothing has happened on the blog that I wonder if it is worth to write here. Unfortunately, I stop their activities blog, for how long - I do not know. I do not have the desire to occupy this still. If I have to be honest, playing dress-up and any "reconstruction" stop me messing around at the same time they begin to get bored. </div>
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For now I'm finishing a doctoral thesis, which now becomes a pleasure because I write about what I like and what I feel is best. I still sewing some projects: Robe de madrassas, corset, and further projects are waiting. Much of the time it takes me now dance - I see myself as I go further and recognize new undiscovered secrets in the history of dance. My new discoveries in this area I will to share in other blog Taneczne Notatki and there invite my readers (I wrote only in Polish).</div>
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Narazie kończę pracę doktorską, która teraz staje sie przyjemnością bo piszę o tym co najbardziej lubię i w czym najlepiej się czuję. Nadal także szyję. Robe de madras w tym gorset oraz kolejne projekty czekają. Dużo czasu zajmuje mi teraz taniec - widzę siebie jak idę dalej i poznaję nowe nieodkryte jeszcze tajemnice z historii tańca. Moimi nowymi odkryciami w tej dziedzinie będę się dzielic na Tanecznych notatkach i tam zapraszam moich czytelników. </div>
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atelierpolonaisehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12221915032674869681noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8315684709486567201.post-79522351217705637302016-04-18T18:38:00.000+02:002016-04-18T18:38:13.740+02:00Śniadanie przede wszytskim (niezaleznie w jakiej epoce żyjesz). 19th century sandwich case.<div style="text-align: center;">
Dopiero teraz mam trochę czasu na zajęcie sie blogiem. Między konferencjami staram się szyc i haftowac. Tym razem o banalnej rzeczy, którą zrobiłam jeszcze w zeszłym roku. Jestem dostępna częściej niż na blogu na pintereście a rzadziej na instagramie.<br />
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Tym razem o banalnej rzeczy, którą zrobiłam jeszcze w zeszłym roku.</div>
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Jest to haftowana torba śniadaniowa z napisem Bon Apettit, który pojawiał się w wielu przedrukach w czasopismach kobiecych z lat 60. XIX wieku. Najwczesniej ten projekt pojawił sie w czasopiśmie <i>De Gracieuse </i>z dnia 3 września 1866 roku. Następnie ten sam projekt ukazał się w polskim <i>Bluszczu </i>z roku 1866 w numerze 48. Można więc wysnuc wniosek, że <i>Bluszcz </i>starał się drukowac w miarę aktualne propozycje robótek. Słynna angielska pisarka o gospodarstwie domowym także zamieściła tę instrukcję w swojej książce o robótkach <i>Beeton's book of needlework ... </i>z 1870 roku. Wrócę jednak do <i>Bluszcza</i>, gdzie zamieszono zarówno ilustracje jak i opis torby - woreczka: </div>
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<i>Torba dla uczennic.</i></div>
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<i>Podajemy tu formę na torbę dla uczniów i uczennic uczęszczających do szkół, by niosąc w nich kajeta i książki, mogli wygodnie i śniadanie pomieścic. </i></div>
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<i>Zrobiona jest z ceraty, w koło odziergana, zwierzchu haftem, czerwonym jedwabiem łańcuszkowym ściegiem ozdobiona. Litery wyszyte są czarnym jedwabiem i oznaczone srebrnymi perełkami. Kraje się najprzód z ceraty zwyczajnej i ceratki cieńszej na podszewkę, podług figury 51 jedna częśc, następnie na boki podług fig. 51 dwie części. wtedy przenosi się deseń fig 51 na właściwe miejsce na wierzch i wyszywa łańcuszkiem. Brzeg całej torby wycina sie w ząbki; boki wszywają sie podług jednozgodnych liczb czarnym jedwabiem ściegiem dzierganym, tak jak i ząbki wkoło. Torba spina się na dziurkę wyszytą czerwonym jedwabiem i guzik szmuklerski czerwony. Napis może byc rozmaity, najstosowniejszy po polsku, imie i nazwisko właścicielki. </i><br />
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W mojej wersji nie ma ceraty, jest za to szary len i bawełniana podszewka. Haftowałam nicmi <i>Ariadna. </i>Wyhaftowanie wierzchu nie było trudne ale wykonanie ząbków na bokach z jednoczesnym ich przyszyciem było dla mnie zbyt kłopotliwe i wyszło po prostu brzydko. Zmieniłam zatem trochę fason torebki, wszywając boki prosto a pózniej tylko zszywając u brzegów tak aby styl był mniej więcej podobny. Z zapięcia narazie zrezygnowałam używam malej agrafki.<br />
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Przy szyciu korzystałam także z tej strony oraz z zamieszczonego tam wzoru: www.feelingstitchy.com<br />
Oryginalny wykrój można znaleśc na stronie: Fashion magazine De Gracieuse<br />
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Only now I have some time to deal with blog. Between conferences I try to sew and embroidering small things. This time about this things, which did even last year.<br />
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It is embroidered bag or sandwich case for food with the inscription <i>Bon Appetite</i>, which appeared in a number of reprints in women's magazines from the 60s in 19th century. The earliest the project appeared in the magazine <i>De Gracieuse</i> dated 3 September 1866 year. Then, the same project was published in Polish magazine called <i>Bluszcz</i> from 1866 in the number 48. So we can conclude that Polish magazine was trying to print as current proposals for needlework. The famous English writer Isabella Beeton of the household also posted this statement in his book:<i>Beeton's book of needlework... </i>.<br />
In my version I used grey linen and red cotton. All sewing by hand made. I used the pattern from; Fashion Magazine De Gracieuse and from: www. feelingstitchy.com<br />
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atelierpolonaisehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12221915032674869681noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8315684709486567201.post-80111313106024976172016-01-25T18:00:00.000+01:002016-01-25T18:00:04.573+01:00Galanteryjne hieroglify czyli sekretarz miłosny. Emilie Berrin i jej projekty z pocz. XIX wieku/ Galante Hieroglyphen - Emilie Berrin as mystery designer an early 1800. <!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-C00tXP_xckQ/VqS9jjrilAI/AAAAAAAAFV0/oDv3hMbNXfs/s1600/neuemusterzumsti00berr_0007.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="249" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-C00tXP_xckQ/VqS9jjrilAI/AAAAAAAAFV0/oDv3hMbNXfs/s320/neuemusterzumsti00berr_0007.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://archive.org/stream/neuemusterzumsti00berr#page/n5/mode/2up">E, Berrin, </a><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="line-height: 115%;"><span class="hps"><span class="hps"><i><span lang="EN-US"><a href="https://archive.org/stream/neuemusterzumsti00berr#page/n5/mode/2up">NeueMuster zum Sticken und Weben, oder, Versuch Mahlerei mit Strickkunst, 1800, </a></span></i></span></span></span></span></span></td></tr>
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W czasie pracy nad
haftem do spódnicy z końca XVIII wieku natknęłam się na książki – wzorniki dla
haftów i szydełkowania, autorką tych prac lub też współautorką była Emilie
Berrin o której nic mi nie wiadomo więcej niż tyle ile sama mogę się domyślać. Prawdopodobnie
Francuzka i malarka a znana była na początku XIX wieku jako właśnie autorka i
projektantka - jeszcze w 1822 roku wydała książkę o wyplataniu biżuterii z włosów! </div>
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<span class="hps">While
working on</span> <span class="hps">embroidery</span> <span class="hps">to</span> <span class="hps">skirt</span> <span class="hps">the late eighteenth</span> <span class="hps">century,</span> <span class="hps">I came across a</span> <span class="hps">book</span> <span class="hps">-</span> drawings <span class="hps">for</span> <span class="hps">embroidery and</span> <span class="hps">crocheting</span>,
author <span class="hps">of these</span> <span class="hps">work</span> <span class="hps">or</span> <span class="hps">co-author</span> <span class="hps">was</span>
<span class="hps">Emilie</span> <span class="hps">Berrin</span> <span class="hps">about
which</span> <span class="hps">I know nothing</span> <span class="hps">more</span> <span class="hps">than</span> <span class="hps">as much as</span> <span class="hps">she</span>
<span class="hps">can</span> <span class="hps">guess</span>. <span class="hps">Probably</span>
<span class="hps">Frenchwoman</span> <span class="hps">and</span> <span class="hps">painter</span>
<span class="hps">and</span> <span class="hps">was known</span> <span class="hps">in
the early nineteenth</span> <span class="hps">century as</span> <span class="hps">precisely</span>
<span class="hps">author and</span> <span class="hps">designer.</span> </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-T08f2nkd-a4/VqS-IQljjAI/AAAAAAAAFV8/Psxt0vtVF78/s1600/neuemusterzumsti00berr_0003.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="243" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-T08f2nkd-a4/VqS-IQljjAI/AAAAAAAAFV8/Psxt0vtVF78/s320/neuemusterzumsti00berr_0003.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://archive.org/stream/neuemusterzumsti00berr#page/n1/mode/2up">E.Berrin, J, Savin, <span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="line-height: 115%;"><span class="hps"><span class="hps"><i><span lang="EN-US">NeueMuster zum Sticken und Weben, oder, Versuch Mahlerei mit Strickkunst, 1800</span></i></span></span></span></span></span></a></td></tr>
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Jej prace musiały być
bardzo popularne w końcu lat 90 tych XVIII wieku i na początku XIX, gdyż
książki wydawała sama jak i wspólnie z innymi autorami a niektóre z nich były
także przedrukowywane na inne języki.* W jednej z książek podano informację, że
dostępna jest także w Moskwie w księgarni Courtenera. Swoje prace wydawała
chyba w niemieckim wydawnictwie w Lipsku. Jeszcze w 1822 roku wydała książkę o wyplataniu biżuterii z włosów!</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span class="hps"><span style="line-height: 115%;">Her
work</span></span><span style="line-height: 115%;"> <span class="hps">had to be</span> <span class="hps">very popular</span> <span class="hps">in
the late</span> <span class="hps">90s</span> <span class="hps">eighteenth century</span>
<span class="hps">and early nineteenth centuries</span>, since <span class="hps">the
book</span> <span class="hps">appeared</span> <span class="hps">alone</span> <span class="hps">or jointly</span> <span class="hps">with other authors</span> <span class="hps">and some</span> <span class="hps">of them were</span> <span class="hps">also</span>
<span class="hps">reprinted</span> <span class="hps">in other languages</span>. <span class="hps">In</span> <span class="hps">one of the books</span> <span class="hps">given</span>
<span class="hps">information that</span> <span class="hps">is also available</span>
<span class="hps">at the Courtener bookstore</span> <span class="hps">in Moscow</span>.
<span class="hps">Her</span> <span class="hps">work</span> <span class="hps">seemed
to</span> <span class="hps">think</span> <span class="hps">the German</span> <span class="hps">publishing house</span> <span class="hps">in Leipzig. </span></span></span></span><br />
<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">Even</span> <span class="hps">in 1822</span> <span class="hps">she published a book</span> <span class="hps">about</span> <span class="hps">weaving</span> <span class="hps">hair </span></span><span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps"><span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">jewelry</span></span>!</span></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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</span></span></span></span></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: small;">Była autorką wielu
ciekawych publikacji wszystkie dotyczyły projektowania i zawierały wzory i
rysunki z różnych dziedzin związanych z robótkami:</span></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;">Do pierwszej grupy
zaliczyłabym wzorniki hafciarskie, do drugiej wzorniki do robótek szydełkowych
a do trzeciej wzorniki i rysunki do rysowania na porcelanie, przeznaczone do
haftów i malowania na tkaninie.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span class="hps">She
was the author</span> <span class="hps">of many interesting</span> <span class="hps">publications, which</span> <span class="hps">can be divided into</span> <span class="hps">4 types</span> of empire crafting <span class="hps">because of the type</span> <span class="hps">contained</span> <span class="hps">in the books</span> <span class="hps">of
works.</span> <span class="hps">All</span> <span class="hps">relate to</span> <span class="hps">design</span> <span class="hps">and include</span> <span class="hps">drawings,</span>
<span class="hps">models,</span> <span class="hps">templates:</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span class="hps">The first group</span> <span class="hps">to count among</span> <span class="hps">embroidery</span> drawings, <span class="hps">the
second</span> drawings for <span class="hps">knitting</span> <span class="hps">and</span> <span class="hps">crochet</span>,<span class="hps"> the
third</span><span class="hps"> drawings rebus</span> for<span class="hps"> porcelain</span>, <span class="hps">for</span> <span class="hps">embroidery and</span> <span class="hps">painting
on</span> <span class="hps">fabric: </span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span class="hps"><b>Hafty i szydełko. Embroideries and crochet works:</b> </span></span></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gABn6vS2rVc/VqS824cG0xI/AAAAAAAAFVw/FJ5RHR1YX6I/s1600/73004d5172a65ee817991ad45e7e01b1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="251" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gABn6vS2rVc/VqS824cG0xI/AAAAAAAAFVw/FJ5RHR1YX6I/s320/73004d5172a65ee817991ad45e7e01b1.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://archive.org/stream/neuemusterzumsti00berr#page/n1/mode/2up">E.Berrin, J, Savin, <span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="line-height: 115%;"><span class="hps"><span class="hps"><i><span lang="EN-US">NeueMuster zum Sticken und Weben, oder, Versuch Mahlerei mit Strickkunst, 1800</span></i></span></span></span></span></span></a> </td></tr>
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Muster zum Sticken und Weben, oder, Versuch Mahlerei mit Strickkunst</span></i><b><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 18.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: PL; mso-font-kerning: 18.0pt;"> </span></i></b><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: PL; mso-font-kerning: 18.0pt;">…,<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: PL; mso-font-kerning: 18.0pt;">wydana we<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"> </i>współpracy
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://archive.org/details/MAB.31962000727283Images">E. Berrin, </a><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="line-height: 115%;"><span class="hps"><span class="hps"><i><a href="https://archive.org/details/MAB.31962000727283Images">Essai d'application de la peinture à l'artde tricoter : ou, recueil de patrons à tricotage ..., 1800</a></i></span></span></span></span></span></td></tr>
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Wzorniki robótek
szydełkowych, nadają się także do haftów krzyżykowych:</div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Essai d'application de la peinture à l'art
de tricoter : ou, recueil de patrons à tricotage ... część 1 i 2, </i>podtytuł
mówi o wzorach przeznaczonych na rękawiczki, boneciki dla dzieci, wszelkiego
rodzaju wykończenia na kamizelki, wykończenia torebek – pamiątek, okładki,
obrusów, osłon na krzesła, wzory podwiązek, torebek, pudełek na tabakę, wzory
alfabetów ( angielski i francuski), wzory ekranów kominkowych, wydany w Lipsku
1800 w języku francuskim.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6q4G_I5KZdU/VqS_rRxUgGI/AAAAAAAAFWQ/7pgThbyQvNE/s1600/MAB.31962000727283_Images_0016.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="250" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6q4G_I5KZdU/VqS_rRxUgGI/AAAAAAAAFWQ/7pgThbyQvNE/s320/MAB.31962000727283_Images_0016.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="line-height: 115%;"><span class="hps"><span class="hps"><span style="font-size: x-small;">E. Berrin,</span> <span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="line-height: 115%;"><span class="hps"><span class="hps"><i>Essai d'application de la peinture à l'art
de tricoter 1: ou, recueil de patrons à tricotage ..., 1800, wzory dla podwiązek, designs for garthers</i></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UYUJRs8J8yA/VqTE9z3ju5I/AAAAAAAAFWo/ukkoEokm_Fs/s1600/PicMonkey%2BCollage.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="215" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UYUJRs8J8yA/VqTE9z3ju5I/AAAAAAAAFWo/ukkoEokm_Fs/s320/PicMonkey%2BCollage.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Left: <a href="http://museumcollection.winterthur.org/single-record.php?resultsperpage=20&view=catalog&srchtype=advanced&hasImage=&ObjObjectName=&CreOrigin=&Earliest=&Latest=&CreCreatorLocal_tab=&materialsearch=&ObjObjectID=&ObjCategory=&DesMaterial_tab=&DesTechnique_tab=&AccCreditLineLocal=&CreMarkSignature=&recid=1955.0003.010&srchfld=&srchtxt=reticule&id=2f82&rownum=1&version=100&src=results-imagelink-only#.VqTDxVK6OaY">knitting reticule Mary Alsopp from Winthertur Museum collection</a>, Right: <a href="https://archive.org/stream/MAB.31962000727291Images_201304/MAB.31962000727291_Images#page/n0/mode/2up">E. Berrin, </a><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="line-height: 115%;"><span class="hps"><span class="hps"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="line-height: 115%;"><span class="hps"><span class="hps"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="line-height: 115%;"><span class="hps"><span class="hps"><i><a href="https://archive.org/stream/MAB.31962000727291Images_201304/MAB.31962000727291_Images#page/n0/mode/2up">Essai d'application de la peinture à l'artde tricoter2..., 1800</a></i></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></td></tr>
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<b>Rebus:</b> <br />
<br />
Pod koniec XVIII
wieku wzrosło zainteresowanie rebusami. Były one popularne jako hafty i jako
rysunki na porcelanie, stosowano je najczęściej w listach i to w listach
miłosnych bo zawierały tajemnicę, można było zakodować tajemną miłosną sprawę.
Używano ich też na guzikach i czasami na wachlarzach. Tak też nazywa się kilka książek – wzorników gdzie Emilie Berrin współpracowała
razem z inżynierem Borreur. Ksią<span style="font-size: small;">ż</span>ki te naprowadziły mnie z kolei na
rozszyfrowanie dziwnych dużych liter i symboli znajdujących się na damskich
torebkach na planszach <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Costume Parisien:</i><br />
<br />
At the end of the
eighteenth century a growing interest a rebus (rebusomania). They were popular as embroidery
and the drawings on porcelain, used it frequently in his letters and in love
letters because they contained secret, you could encode a secret love case. So
also called several books - drawings of Emilie Berrin worked together with
engineer Borreur.<br />
These books me turn to decipher the strange
large letters and symbols on bags women on the boards <i>Costume Parisien</i>:<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ilyrVAen0qY/VqTH8Dt5snI/AAAAAAAAFW0/tYa8XYv0otU/s1600/PicMonkey%2BCollage2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="164" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ilyrVAen0qY/VqTH8Dt5snI/AAAAAAAAFW0/tYa8XYv0otU/s320/PicMonkey%2BCollage2.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Sac a ouvrage au rebus</i>, Costume Parisienne, early 19th century</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Modelki
zatem mają torebki rebusowe, wyhaftowanymi literami, i symbolami w podobnych
konfiguracjach jakie widać na szkicach w książkach Berrin. Książki o rebusach wydane zostały
także w Lipsku w 1800 roku: <a href="http://vd18.de/de-sub-vd18/periodical/pageview/45106996">Galante Hieroglyphen mitGuirlanden, Festons, Blumen und andern Verzierungen, die zur Stickerei wie auchzur Porzelainmahlerei dienen, um seinen Freunden seine Emfindungen, Wünsche undLiebe, durch Figuren zu erklären ; Mit 12 illuminierten Kupfern und mitDeutscher und Französischer Erklärung : ein Secretair der Liebe. </a><br />
<br />
The
models therefore have rebuses bags, embroidered letters, and symbols similar
configurations which can be seen in the diagrams in books Berrin. Books have
also been published in Leipzig in 1800: <a href="http://vd18.de/de-sub-vd18/periodical/pageview/45106996"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">GalanteHieroglyphen myth Guirlanden, Festons, Blumen und andern Verzierungen, die zurStickerei auch zur know Porzelainmahlerei dienen, um seinen Freunden seineEmfindungen, Wünsche und Liebe durch zu Figuren erklären; Myth 12 illuminiertenKupfern und mit Deutscher und Französischer Erklärung: ein SECRETAIRE derLiebe. </i></a></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="line-height: 115%;"><span class="hps"></span></span></span></span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jqHO9fd_FYk/VqTIdLD3bAI/AAAAAAAAFW8/cNEBge2vCNk/s1600/45107047.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jqHO9fd_FYk/VqTIdLD3bAI/AAAAAAAAFW8/cNEBge2vCNk/s320/45107047.jpg" width="269" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://vd18.de/de-sub-vd18/content/titleinfo/45106995">E, Berrin, Borreur, Galanten Hieroglyphen, 1800</a></td></tr>
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<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EfN1VKLIj6U/VqTJ1aNtNrI/AAAAAAAAFXI/9Jy3ZdskvpU/s1600/PicMonkey%2BCollage3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EfN1VKLIj6U/VqTJ1aNtNrI/AAAAAAAAFXI/9Jy3ZdskvpU/s320/PicMonkey%2BCollage3.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Sac ouvrage from Costume Parisien, 1800, rebus from book E. Berrin, 1800, <a href="https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/d0/57/c8/d057c855b65a37f9f3d640efd86d5e78.jpg">porcelain button with rebus, late 18th century</a></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TKEjKThYsHs/VqTNSsx5P-I/AAAAAAAAFXU/Faj4UPGcaqM/s1600/PicMonkey%2BCollage4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TKEjKThYsHs/VqTNSsx5P-I/AAAAAAAAFXU/Faj4UPGcaqM/s320/PicMonkey%2BCollage4.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://archive.org/details/mma_rebus_on_love_rebus_on_fortune_382852">Wachlarz z rebusem, a fan with rebus, Met Museum, 1639</a>, <a href="http://www.lesartsdecoratifs.fr/francais/musees/musee-des-arts-decoratifs/actualites/archives/mode-et-textile/deboutonner-la-mode">mother of pearl button with rebus, guzik z rebusem, masa perłowa, Les Art's Dcoratifs, 1780</a></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vtWlrPplqaU/VqTOf_UZ1yI/AAAAAAAAFXg/pIRyOlJ8-mA/s1600/L1100567.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vtWlrPplqaU/VqTOf_UZ1yI/AAAAAAAAFXg/pIRyOlJ8-mA/s320/L1100567.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.outandaboutinparis.com/2011/12/challenge-for-weekend-can-you-solve.html"><i>Postcard of Cup and Saucer with Rebus, Sévres, 1788, Soft-paste porcelain, ©Hillwood Museum</i></a></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-A3lfBevNJbk/VqTO7uAaQrI/AAAAAAAAFXo/p-w1EkYSkPs/s1600/two_sevres_porcelain_pale-yellow_ground_cups_and_saucers_purple_or_puc_d5353590h.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="184" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-A3lfBevNJbk/VqTO7uAaQrI/AAAAAAAAFXo/p-w1EkYSkPs/s320/two_sevres_porcelain_pale-yellow_ground_cups_and_saucers_purple_or_puc_d5353590h.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.christies.com/lotfinder/lot/two-sevres-porcelain-pale-yellow-ground-cups-and-5353590-details.aspx"><i>Christies, Sevres porcelain with rebus, 1787</i></a></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BbiYppi1rPs/VqTQzirJPeI/AAAAAAAAFX0/Ol50F9ihFgQ/s1600/il_fullxfull.309416084.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="253" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BbiYppi1rPs/VqTQzirJPeI/AAAAAAAAFX0/Ol50F9ihFgQ/s320/il_fullxfull.309416084.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.etsy.com/il-en/listing/92263887/now-on-sale-5-antique-french-plates-in"><i>Talerze z rebusami, plates with rebus, 1800 - 1825, Ebay</i></a></td></tr>
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Książkę wydano w dwóch częściach w dwóch językach francuskim i niemieckim. Czym były owe
hieroglify i jakie miały znaczenie dla ówczesnych czytelników? Oddajmy głos
samej Emilie Berrin:</div>
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<span class="hps"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Hieroglify</i></span><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"> <span class="hps">(galanteryjne?)</span> <span class="hps">stały się bardzo</span>
<span class="hps">modne,</span> <span class="hps">można je zobaczyć</span> <span class="hps">na francuskiej</span> <span class="hps">porcelanie</span>; <span class="hps">na haftach lub malowane</span> <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>damskich torebkach do robótek<span class="hps">,
na</span> <span class="hps">wstążkach i</span> <span class="hps">podwiązkach</span>,
na <span class="hps">okładkach</span>, na wachlarzach <span class="hps">i
toaletkach</span>.</i></div>
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<span class="hps">The
book was published</span> <span class="hps">in two parts</span> <span class="hps">in two languages,</span> <span class="hps">French and German.</span> <span class="hps">What</span> <span class="hps">were these</span> <span class="hps">hieroglyphs</span>,
and what <span class="hps">had</span> <span class="hps">significance</span> <span class="hps">for</span> <span class="hps">contemporary</span> <span class="hps">readers?</span>
<span class="hps">Let us</span> <span class="hps">voice</span> <span class="hps">the
same</span> <span class="hps">Emilie</span> <span class="hps">Berrin</span>:</div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Hieroglyphes Galantes
sont devenus tres mode, on en voit beaucoup sur les porcelaines des France; on
en brode et on en peint sur les Sacs a ouvrage des dames, sur les rubans et les
jarretieres, sur les etuis, les Eventails et les boëtes de toilette.</span></i></div>
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<span class="hps"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"></i></span><br /></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-plFKSMu-MHQ/VqY7I9KyqJI/AAAAAAAAFYE/M_kYtqUhzUc/s1600/45107090.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-plFKSMu-MHQ/VqY7I9KyqJI/AAAAAAAAFYE/M_kYtqUhzUc/s320/45107090.jpg" width="254" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">wzory rebusów dla podwiązek, garthers with rebus, <a href="http://vd18.de/de-sub-vd18/periodical/thumbview/45107029">E. Berrin, <span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><i>Hieroglyphes Galantes</i>, 1800</span></a><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">wzór na talerzyk porcelanowy, pattern for porcelain, <a href="http://vd18.de/de-sub-vd18/periodical/thumbview/45107029">E. Berrin,<i> </i><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Hieroglyphes Galantes, </span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">1800</span></a> </td></tr>
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Książka Emilie Berrin o rebusach znajduje się także w kolekcji biblioteki <a href="https://senatehouselibraryhistoriccollections.wordpress.com/2013/02/07/senate-house-library-treasures-volume-featuring-hieroglyphs/#comments">Senate House Library</a> uniwersytetu londyńskiego, gdzie badacze piszą, że rysunki rebusów wycinało się i wklejało do zeszytów czy na listy (akurat to mnie nie przekonuje). W listach rebusy były zazwyczaj rysowane a książka jest typowym wzornikiem do kopiowania. </div>
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<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">The book</span> <span class="hps">Emilie</span> <span class="hps">Berrin</span> <span class="hps"></span><span class="hps"></span> <span class="hps">is also in</span> <span class="hps">library collections</span> <a href="https://senatehouselibraryhistoriccollections.wordpress.com/2013/02/07/senate-house-library-treasures-volume-featuring-hieroglyphs/"><span class="hps">Senate House Library</span></a>, University of London, <span class="hps">where</span> <span class="hps">researchers</span> <span class="hps">write</span> <span class="hps">that the drawings</span> <span class="hps">rebuses</span> <span class="hps">cut</span> <span class="hps">and</span> <span class="hps">insert into</span><span class="hps"> notebooks</span> <span class="hps">or</span> <span class="hps">on</span> <span class="hps atn">the list (</span>it <span class="hps">just</span> <span class="hps">does not convince me</span>). <span class="hps">The letters</span> <span class="hps">were usually</span> <span class="hps">drawn</span> <span class="hps">puzzles</span> <span class="hps">and the book</span> <span class="hps">is a typical</span> <span class="hps">template</span> <span class="hps">to copy. </span></span></div>
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<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps"><b>Biżuteria z włosów, Hair jewellery:</b></span></span></div>
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<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">Ostatnia książka Berrin o jakie mi wiadomo wydana została w 1822 także w Lipsku i dotyczy wyplatania biżuterii z włosów: </span></span><br />
<a href="http://www.digishelf.de/objekt/PPN770650295/6/#topDocAnchor"><i>Gründliche Anweisung für Frauen, auf alle mögliche Art Haargeflechte nach der jetzigen Mode zu fertigen.</i></a><span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps"> </span></span><br />
<i><span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps"><span class="" id="result_box" lang="pl"><span class="hps">Gruntowne</span> <span class="hps">instrukcje dla</span> <span class="hps">kobiet</span> <span class="hps">do wykonania wszystkich</span> <span class="hps">możliwych rodzajów</span> <span class="hps">plecionki włosów</span> <span class="hps">według aktualnej mody</span><span class="hps"></span><span> jak</span> <span class="hps">elastyczne pas</span>ki<span class="hps"></span><span>,</span> <span class="hps">bransoletki</span><span class="">, naszyjniki, pierścionki</span><span>,</span> <span class="hps">itp</span></span></span></span></i><br />
<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps"><span class="" id="result_box" lang="pl"><span class="hps"> </span></span> </span></span></div>
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<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps"><span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">The last book</span> <span class="hps">Berrin</span> <span class="hps">about</span> <span class="hps">what</span> <span class="hps">I know</span> <span class="hps">was published</span> <span class="hps">in 1822</span> <span class="hps">also</span> <span class="hps">in Leipzig</span> <span class="hps">and concerns</span> <span class="hps">plaiting</span> <span class="hps">hair</span> <span class="hps">jewelry</span>:</span> </span></span><br />
<a href="http://www.digishelf.de/objekt/PPN770650295/6/#topDocAnchor"><i>Gründliche Anweisung für Frauen, auf alle mögliche Art Haargeflechte nach der jetzigen Mode zu fertigen.</i></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"></span><br /></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UPi7TyViCIE/VqZDlH2wdWI/AAAAAAAAFYk/-LXcURc6rO0/s1600/content1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="231" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UPi7TyViCIE/VqZDlH2wdWI/AAAAAAAAFYk/-LXcURc6rO0/s320/content1.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">E.Berrin, <i>Gründliche Anweisung für Frauen..,</i> 1800<i> </i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fCwjxfpM9oI/VqZCu2BJDvI/AAAAAAAAFYc/BuFLih2fYzk/s1600/content.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="219" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fCwjxfpM9oI/VqZCu2BJDvI/AAAAAAAAFYc/BuFLih2fYzk/s320/content.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">E. Berrin, <i>Gründliche Anweisung für Frauen..,</i> 1800</td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"></span><br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Książka zawiera instrukcje i ilustracje jak należy przeplatać pasma włosów. Ciekawą ilustracja jest ilustracja na początku książeczki. Przedstawia trzy kobiece postacie w pokoju zajęte robótką - można się domyślać iż uczą się robić biżuterię. W środku zapewne stroi nauczycielka być może przedstawia są autorkę i uczy siedzącą uczennicę co ma wykonywać na poduszce. Wygląda zresztą jakby wykonywała koronkę. Postać po lewej stronie z kolei stoi przy stoliku z lampą - nad abażurem pewnie dla wygody rozłożyła pasma obciążone klockami. Kobieta po prawej stoi nad paleniskiem? być może jest to któryś etapów przygotowywania tej biżuterii.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"> </span><span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">The book</span> <span class="hps">provides instructions and illustrations</span> <span class="hps">on how to</span> <span class="hps">interwoven</span> <span class="hps">strands of hair</span>. <span class="hps">An interesting</span> <span class="hps">illustration</span> <span class="hps">is an illustration</span> <span class="hps">at the beginning</span> <span class="hps">of the book.</span> <span class="hps">It shows three</span> <span class="hps">female characters</span> <span class="hps">in the room</span> <span class="hps">occupied</span><span class="hps"></span> <span class="hps">-</span> <span class="hps">you can guess</span> <span class="hps">that</span> <span class="hps">learn to make</span> <span class="hps">jewelry.</span> <span class="hps">In the midst of</span> <span class="hps">probably the</span> <span class="hps">tunes</span> <span class="hps">teacher</span> <span class="hps">may</span> <span class="hps">present</span> <span class="hps">they are</span> <span class="hps">the author</span> <span class="hps">and teaches</span> <span class="hps">student</span> <span class="hps">sitting</span> <span class="hps">which is</span> <span class="hps">pleating</span> <span class="hps">on a pillow</span>. <span class="hps">It looks</span> <span class="hps">as produce of lace</span><span class="hps"></span><span class="hps"></span><span class="hps"></span>. <span class="hps">The figure</span> <span class="hps">on the left</span>, in turn, <span class="hps">stands</span> <span class="hps">at a table</span> <span class="hps">with a lamp</span> <span class="hps">-</span> <span class="hps">the</span> <span class="hps">lampshade</span> <span class="hps">probably</span> <span class="hps">spread</span> <span class="hps">for the convenience of</span> <span class="hps">bandwidth</span> <span class="hps">loaded</span> <span class="hps">blocks</span>. <span class="hps">The woman</span> <span class="hps">on the right</span> <span class="hps">standing near on hearth (?) </span><span class="hps"></span><span class="hps">perhaps this is</span> <span class="hps">some</span> <span class="hps">steps in the preparation</span> <span class="hps">of this</span> <span class="hps">jewelry</span>. </span></div>
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<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><br /></span></div>
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<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><br />Włosy już w XVIII wieku pojawiały się jako element pamiątki (memento mori) w biżuterii zwłaszcza kojarzone są z miniaturami. Wzrost zainteresowaniem tego typu biżuterią nastąpił w XIX wieku w latach 1830 - 1800: </span><span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><i><span class="" id="result_box" lang="pl"><span class="hps"> </span></span></i></span><br />
<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><i><span class="" id="result_box" lang="pl"><span class="hps">Cynthia</span> <span class="hps">Amnéus</span> <span class="hps">w</span> <span class="hps atn">"</span><span>The Art of</span> <span class="hps"> Hairwork</span><span>,</span> <span class="hps atn">"</span><span>zauważa, że</span> <span class="hps">miniaturowe</span> <span class="hps">portrety</span><span>"</span> <span class="hps">były</span><br /> <span class="hps">często</span> <span class="hps">wykonywane na zlecenie aby</span> <span class="hps">upamiętnić</span> <span class="hps">doniosłe</span><span class="hps"> wydarzenia życiowe</span><span>, takie jak</span> <span class="hps">narodziny</span><span>,</span> <span class="hps">zaręczyn</span><span>,</span> <span class="hps">śmierć</span><span>,</span> <span class="hps">lub</span><span class="hps"></span><span class="hps"> rozłąkę.(...) </span></span></i></span><span class="" id="result_box" lang="pl"><i><span class="hps">Istotnym</span> <span class="hps">elementem</span> <span class="hps">sentymentalnej</span> <span class="hps">biżuterii zwłosów</span> <span class="hps">był jego nośnik ( związek)</span> <span>poprzez</span> <span class="hps">włosy</span> <span class="hps">z</span> <span class="hps">ukochaną osobą</span><span>.</span> <span class="hps">Kobiety, które</span> <span class="hps">podejmowały się</span> <span class="hps">wykonania</span><span class="hps"></span> <span class="hps">takiej biżuterii</span><span class="hps"> mogły się zwrócić się do</span> <span class="hps">instrukcji</span> <span class="hps">z czasopism</span> <span class="hps">i podręczników</span><span>.</span> **</i><span class="hps"></span></span></div>
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<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">Hair</span> <span class="hps">already</span> <span class="hps">in the eighteenth century</span> <span class="hps">appeared</span> <span class="hps">as a</span> <span class="hps">souvenir</span> <span class="hps atn">(</span><span class="">memento mori</span><span>)</span> <span class="hps">in jewelry</span> <span class="hps">in particular</span> <span class="hps">are associated with</span> <span class="hps">miniatures.</span> <span class="hps">The increase in</span> <span class="hps">interest in</span> <span class="hps">this type of</span> <span class="hps">jewelry</span> <span class="hps">occurred in the nineteenth</span> <span class="hps">century,</span> <span class="hps">in the years</span> <span class="hps">1830 - 1880</span><span class="">:</span></span><br />
<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class=""><i>Cynthia Amnéus, in "The Art of Ornamental Hairwork,” notes that miniature portraits “were often commissioned to commemorate momentous life events such as births, betrothals, deaths, or<br />other joinings or separations. (...) The essential component of sentimental hairwork was its medium: the hair of the loved one. Women who undertook the arduous, painstaking task of creating their own hairwork could turn to instructions from magazines and manuals. Instructions for making hairwork circulated in the print culture just as motifs and styles of hairwork<br />did.**</i> </span></span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1NnqYcRKK2c/VqZQmbM7gMI/AAAAAAAAFY0/6_JrPIDi9tY/s1600/tumblr_mhbfeo5E3M1qidnqfo1_1280.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1NnqYcRKK2c/VqZQmbM7gMI/AAAAAAAAFY0/6_JrPIDi9tY/s320/tumblr_mhbfeo5E3M1qidnqfo1_1280.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://oldrags.tumblr.com/post/41822279363/mourning-bracelet-1840-60-mccord-museum">bransoleta z włosów, hair bracelet 1840 - 60, McCord Museum</a></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pRO2mmRYqIg/VqZRfwGmAFI/AAAAAAAAFZA/yW0LZKy2OLc/s1600/content3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="233" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pRO2mmRYqIg/VqZRfwGmAFI/AAAAAAAAFZA/yW0LZKy2OLc/s320/content3.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">E.Berrin, <i>Gründliche Anweisung für Frauen...</i>, 1800<i><br /></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">* w niektórych publikacjach Emilie Berrin występuje wspólnie z innym nazwiskiem Borreur, być może jest to pseudonim samej Berrin. </span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="line-height: 115%;"><span class="hps"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">in some publications</span> <span class="hps">Emilie</span> <span class="hps">Berrin</span> <span class="hps">is joined by</span> <span class="hps">another name</span> <span class="hps">Borreur</span>, <span class="hps">it might be a</span> <span class="hps">pseudonym</span> <span class="hps">same</span> <span class="hps">Berrin</span><span class="">.</span></span> </span></span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="line-height: 115%;"><span class="hps"><span style="font-size: x-small;">** Rachel Harmeyer<i><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">, </span> <a href="https://journals.tdl.org/add/index.php/add/article/view/7034/6302">Obcjetcs of immorality: Hairwork and mourning in <span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">V</span>ictorian <span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">V</span>isual <span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">C</span>ulture</a></i> <span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">, </span></span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">Art of Death and Dying Symposium, </span></span><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span>The University of Houston </span></span><br />
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atelierpolonaisehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12221915032674869681noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8315684709486567201.post-6051717772326765282016-01-23T18:19:00.000+01:002016-01-23T18:22:13.707+01:00Ball dress from Heideloff’s Gallery of Fashion, September 1798 <!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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Z okazji Balu
Arsenału uszyłam sobie nową spódnicę i caraco. Plan zaczęłam realizować już w
listopadzie (albo dopiero) ale już widzę, że to był mój ostatni raz kiedy w ten
sposób zaplanowałam pracę. Nie nadaję się do szycia na tzw. akord czyli na jakiś
określony termin. Zaczęcie pracy w listopadzie to dla mnie za krótki czas, tym
bardziej, że do szycia strojów historycznych nie używam maszyny do szycia jak
również nie używam jej w przypadku haftów. Kolejne projekty zaś będę realizować
bez terminów i dużym wyprzedzeniem.</div>
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<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">On the occasion of</span> <span class="hps">the Arsenal</span> <span class="hps">Ball</span> <span class="hps">I made</span><span class="hps"> a new</span> <span class="hps">skirt and</span> <span class="hps">caraco</span>. <span class="hps">The plan</span> <span class="hps">began to</span> <span class="hps">realize</span> <span class="hps">in November</span> last year<span class="hps"></span><span class="hps"></span> <span class="hps">but</span> <span class="hps">now</span> <span class="hps">I see that</span> <span class="hps">it was my</span> <span class="hps">last time</span> <span class="hps">in this way</span> <span class="hps">have planned</span> <span class="hps">work</span>. <span class="hps">Begin the</span> <span class="hps">work</span> <span class="hps">in November</span> <span class="hps">this for me</span> <span class="hps">for</span> <span class="hps">a short time</span>, <span class="hps">the more that</span> <span class="hps">sewing</span> <span class="hps">historical</span> <span class="hps">costumes</span> <span class="hps">do not use</span> <span class="hps">a sewing machine</span> <span class="hps">and</span> <span class="hps">do not use</span> <span class="hps">it in</span> <span class="hps">the case of embroidery</span>. <span class="hps">Other projects</span> <span class="hps">while</span> <span class="hps">I</span> <span class="hps">realize</span> <span class="hps">no deadlines</span>, and <span class="hps">well in advance.</span></span></div>
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<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps"> </span></span><span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps"></span></span> </div>
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Ale wróćmy do samego
projektu. Ball Arsenału miał datę 1796. Lata 90. XVIII wieku są dość
specyficzne niby jeszcze zamglone wspomnienie <i>ancien regime</i> a tuż za miedzą
pojawiają się stroje kompletnie przeciwstawne poprzedniej epoce, pełne
dynamizmu, wolności i elegancji nie zakłócanej perukami czy olbrzymimi
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<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">But back to</span> <span class="hps">the same project.</span> <span class="hps">Ball</span> <span class="hps">Arsenal</span> <span class="hps">had a</span> <span class="hps">date</span> <span class="hps">1796.</span> <span class="hps">The 90s</span> <span class="hps">eighteenth century</span> <span class="hps">are</span> <span class="hps">quite specific</span> <span class="hps">kind of</span> <span class="hps">still</span> <span class="hps">hazy</span> <span class="hps">memory of</span> <span class="hps">the <i>ancien regime</i></span> <span class="hps">and just</span> <span class="hps">across the border</span> <span class="hps">appear</span> <span class="hps">completely</span> <span class="hps">contradictory</span> <span class="hps">costumes</span> <span class="hps">previous era</span>, full <span class="hps">of dynamism</span>, freedom <span class="hps">and elegance</span> <span class="hps">not</span> <span class="hps">disturbed</span> <span class="hps">wigs</span> <span class="hps">and</span> <span class="hps">giant</span> <span class="hps">hairdos</span>.</span> </div>
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Badając ten okres,
który jest dość tajemniczy – jak np. kiedy <i>caraco</i> przemienia się w <i>spencer</i> i
kiedy przechodzi w typowy strój ludowy np. w Prowansji. Jak zmienia się gorset:
z jednej strony pojawia się nowy typ gorsetu, zbliżony do współczesnego stanika
a drugiej jeszcze nadal nosi się gorsety z poprzedniej epoki. Z jednej strony
linia empirowa góruje z drugiej jeszcze talia jest nisko osadzona. Te dwa
kierunki w tych czasach jeszcze się ze sobą stykają i rywalizują o swoje
miejsce. </div>
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<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">Examining</span> <span class="hps">this period</span>, <span class="hps">which is quite</span> <span class="hps">mysterious</span> <span class="hps">-</span> <span class="hps">eg</span>. <span class="hps">when</span> <i><span class="hps">caraco</span></i> <span class="hps">transforms into a</span> <i><span class="hps">spencer</span> </i><span class="hps">and</span> <span class="hps">when it passes</span> <span class="hps">in</span> <span class="hps">typical</span> <span class="hps">costume</span> <span class="hps">eg</span>. <span class="hps">in Provence.</span> <span class="hps">How the</span> <span class="hps">corset</span>: on the one <span class="hps">hand,</span> <span class="hps">there is a new</span> <span class="hps">type of</span> <span class="hps">corset</span>, similar <span class="hps">to the modern</span> <span class="hps">bra</span> <span class="hps">and</span> <span class="hps">the other</span> <span class="hps">yet</span> <span class="hps">still</span> <span class="hps">wears</span> <span class="hps">corsets</span> <span class="hps">from a previous</span> <span class="hps">era.</span> <span class="hps">On the one</span> <span class="hps">hand,</span> <span class="hps">Empire</span> <span class="hps">line</span> <span class="hps">dominates</span> <span class="hps">the other</span> <span class="hps">deck is</span> <span class="hps">still</span> <span class="hps">set low</span>. <span class="hps">These</span> <span class="hps">two directions</span> <span class="hps">these days</span> <span class="hps">still</span> <span class="hps">in contact</span> <span class="hps">with each other</span> <span class="hps">and</span> <span class="hps">compete</span> <span class="hps">for their place</span><span class="">.</span></span> </div>
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<br /></div>
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Wiedziałam, że
korzystać będę z planszy Heideloffa, którego najbardziej sobie cenię za
niezwykłą precyzję jego rysunków czego brakuje mi w planszach <i>Costume Parisienne</i>.
Poza tym jego propozycje sukien, są o niebo lepsze niż <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>te niektóre okropne suknie empirowe z C. P.</div>
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Wybrałam planszę z <i>Gallery of Fashion</i> datowaną na wrzesień 1798 roku: </div>
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<br /></div>
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<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">I knew that</span> <span class="hps">I would</span> <span class="hps">use</span> <span class="hps">Heideloff's fashion plate from <i>Gallery of Fashion</i></span>, <span class="hps">which</span> <span class="hps">I appreciate</span> <span class="hps">most</span> <span class="hps">for his outstanding precision</span> <span class="hps">of his drawings</span> <span class="hps">what was missing</span> <span class="hps">in fashion plate in</span><span class="hps"></span> <i><span class="hps">Costume</span> <span class="hps">Parisien</span></i>. <span class="hps">Besides</span> <span class="hps">his proposals</span> <span class="hps">dresses</span> <span class="hps">are</span> <span class="hps">so much better</span> <span class="hps">than</span> <span class="hps">some</span> <span class="hps">horrible</span> <span class="hps">dresses</span> <span class="hps">empire</span> <span class="hps">CP</span><br /><br /> <span class="hps">I chose</span> <span class="hps">the board</span> <span class="hps">of the</span> <span class="hps">Gallery of</span> <span class="hps">Fashion</span> <span class="hps">dated</span> <span class="hps">September 1798</span> <span class="hps">year:</span></span> </div>
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<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TfHknP7UcY8/VqOlfqCo7vI/AAAAAAAAFTM/DgyjmJvk7-8/s1600/032-0002-020.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TfHknP7UcY8/VqOlfqCo7vI/AAAAAAAAFTM/DgyjmJvk7-8/s320/032-0002-020.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://digital.bunka.ac.jp/kichosho_e/search_shousai.php">Gallery of Fashion, 1798, Bunka Gaukuen Library</a></td></tr>
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<br /></div>
<br />
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nGvCUxh2tVA/VqOljMnMQnI/AAAAAAAAFTU/62Ih3dTbHYc/s1600/879dbfb2cfd26db4c6fa1eb865f57476.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nGvCUxh2tVA/VqOljMnMQnI/AAAAAAAAFTU/62Ih3dTbHYc/s320/879dbfb2cfd26db4c6fa1eb865f57476.jpg" width="198" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://candicehern.com/regencyworld/ball-dress-september-1798/">Regency World, Candice Hern</a></td></tr>
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Ball Dress: </div>
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<i>Head-dress à la Niobe. The front hair cut short and combed straight; the sides in large loose plaits, turned round the head in the form of a bandeaux;
part of the top thrown over the clasp in curls, the rest of the hair
combed smooth, and finished behind in a bow. Pearl bandeaux fastened in
the front, with a gold and purple enameled clasp in the form of a
helmet. Gauze petticoat, trimmed at the bottom with a silver tissue
ribband. Jacket of silver tissue, short close sleeves; the whole richly
embroidered in wreaths of green leaves and red berries; the waist and
shoulders ornamented with silver cords and tassels. Small plaiting of
narrow lace round the bosom. Purple ear-rings and necklace. White gloves
and shoes. </i></div>
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Najpierw musiałam wyhaftować spódnicę na białym batyście. Wybrałam haft cekinami i kolorowymi nićmi ze strony <a href="http://www.marianiforos.com/earlyitemsmain.html">Marii Niforos</a>: </div>
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<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">First</span> <span class="hps">I had to</span> <span class="hps">embroider</span> <span class="hps">skirt</span> <span class="hps">on a white</span> <span class="hps">lawn</span>. <span class="hps">I chose</span> <span class="hps">sequins</span> <span class="hps">and colorful</span> <span class="hps">embroidery</span> <span class="hps">thread</span> <span class="hps">by</span> <span class="hps">Maria</span> <span class="hps">Niforos</span><span class="">:</span></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NAe4wE3xESA/VqOker2eYMI/AAAAAAAAFTE/kEPenecq5ag/s1600/ei25f.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NAe4wE3xESA/VqOker2eYMI/AAAAAAAAFTE/kEPenecq5ag/s320/ei25f.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.marianiforos.com/earlyitemsmain.html">Embroidery skirt panel, late 1700, Maria Niforos </a></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-x4f68tZG9xY/VqOpHIDVZ_I/AAAAAAAAFTg/N30m_xhl5JY/s1600/IMG_3374.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-x4f68tZG9xY/VqOpHIDVZ_I/AAAAAAAAFTg/N30m_xhl5JY/s320/IMG_3374.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My version</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wcGabh6uXTM/VqOpPIHwbFI/AAAAAAAAFTo/jrOk3rOCdQY/s1600/IMG_3244.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wcGabh6uXTM/VqOpPIHwbFI/AAAAAAAAFTo/jrOk3rOCdQY/s320/IMG_3244.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My version</td></tr>
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Ornament spódnicy wykonywałam cekinami małymi (dostępne są na taśmie, nie luzem - te są za duże). Haftowałam nićmi polskimi firmy Ariadna. Motywy przypominały mi muszle, wyidealizowane formy pomponów oraz pióra, drugi motyw przedstawia urnę lub wysoką wazę w której znajdują się pióra. W oryginale kolory były niebieskie z zielenią - ja je zastąpiłam barwami narodowymi - piórami w kolorze białym i czerwonym. </div>
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Spódnice te noszone były do krótkich caraco, ja jednak trochę pokombinowałam i uszyłam ją jako empirową halkę ze stanikiem. </div>
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<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">Ornament</span> <span class="hps">sequined</span> <span class="hps">skirt</span> <span class="hps">I was doing</span> <span class="hps">the small sequins</span> <span class="hps">I embroidered</span> <span class="hps">with threads</span> <span class="hps">Ariadna</span> <span class="hps">Polish</span> <span class="hps">company</span>. <span class="hps">Themes</span> <span class="hps">reminded me of</span> <span class="hps">the shells,</span> <span class="hps">idealized</span> <span class="hps">form of</span> <span class="hps">tassels</span> <span class="hps">and</span> <span class="hps">feathers</span>, the second <span class="hps">theme</span> <span class="hps">presents</span> <span class="hps">an urn</span> <span class="hps">or high</span> <span class="hps">vase</span> <span class="hps">in which there are</span> <span class="hps">feathers</span>. <span class="hps">The</span> <span class="hps">original</span> <span class="hps">colors were</span> <span class="hps">blue with</span> <span class="hps">green</span> <span class="hps">-</span> <span class="hps">I have</span> <span class="hps">them</span> <span class="hps">I replaced</span> <span class="hps">the national colors</span> <span class="hps">-</span> <span class="hps">feathers</span> <span class="hps">in white and</span> <span class="hps">red</span>.<br /> <span class="hps">These</span> <span class="hps">skirts</span> <span class="hps">were worn</span> <span class="hps">for short</span> <span class="hps">caraco</span>, but I used the design for empire petittcoat, carriage dresses, moring dresses and riding habits. One of the you can see here: </span></div>
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<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Ho-rpT8OawA/VqO0COetZ0I/AAAAAAAAFVc/3k4NgASxRC4/s1600/cms_1348737_1.bro.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Ho-rpT8OawA/VqO0COetZ0I/AAAAAAAAFVc/3k4NgASxRC4/s320/cms_1348737_1.bro.jpg" width="228" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.nationaltrustcollections.org.uk/object/1348737.1">Snowshill Wade Costume Collection, National Trust Inventory nr. 1348737.1 </a></td></tr>
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Do spódnicy uszyłam <i>caraco</i> w skróconej wersji w opisie określanym jako <i>jacket </i>a nie spencer. </div>
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Wzorowałam się na caraco z kolekcji Villa Rosemaine: </div>
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<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">Caraco</span> <span class="hps">to</span> <span class="hps">skirt</span> <span class="hps">sewn</span> <span class="hps">in</span> <span class="hps">a shortened version</span> <span class="hps">in the description</span> <span class="hps">referred to as a</span> <span class="hps">jacket</span> <span class="hps">and</span> <span class="hps">not</span> <span class="hps">Spencer</span>.<br />I modeled <span class="hps">on</span> <span class="hps">caraco</span> <span class="hps">from the collection</span> <span class="hps">of Villa</span> <span class="hps">Rosemaine</span>:</span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Nq511CwNvDY/VqOr30TwMDI/AAAAAAAAFUE/I4SlWz1JBBs/s1600/1r_2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Nq511CwNvDY/VqOr30TwMDI/AAAAAAAAFUE/I4SlWz1JBBs/s320/1r_2.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://villa-rosemaine.com/en/bourse/textiles-anciens">Villa Rosemaine</a></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8o47Alx-_ss/VqOr8rL5WCI/AAAAAAAAFUM/b8E2Yv0ewSE/s1600/IMG_4964_0.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8o47Alx-_ss/VqOr8rL5WCI/AAAAAAAAFUM/b8E2Yv0ewSE/s320/IMG_4964_0.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://villa-rosemaine.com/en/bourse/textiles-anciens">Villa Rosemaine</a></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-T4MWUVXRLQw/VqOsA6G0B5I/AAAAAAAAFUU/4wkKDGFj9nY/s1600/094c06ba563ecdbe7bbff7d9e14ebd9a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-T4MWUVXRLQw/VqOsA6G0B5I/AAAAAAAAFUU/4wkKDGFj9nY/s320/094c06ba563ecdbe7bbff7d9e14ebd9a.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://villa-rosemaine.com/en/bourse/textiles-anciens">Villa Rosemaine</a></td></tr>
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Moje caraco uszyłam z jedwabnej tafty szarej w czarne prążki, na podszewkę zużyłam wszystkie resztki jakie miałam pod ręką: </div>
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<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">My</span> <span class="hps">caraco</span> <span class="hps">sewn</span> <span class="hps">with</span> <span class="hps">gray silk</span> <span class="hps">taffeta</span> <span class="hps"></span> <span class="hps">with black</span> <span class="hps">stripes</span> <span class="hps">on</span> <span class="hps">the lining</span> <span class="hps">used up</span> <span class="hps">all the</span> <span class="hps">leftovers</span> <span class="hps">that I had</span> <span class="hps">at hand</span><span class="">:</span></span> </div>
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Niestety nie zrobiłam zdjęć przodu kiedy obszywałam srebrna taśmą i haftowałam małymi cekinami. Nie było na to ani czasu ani też głowy aby wszystko dokumentować. </div>
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<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">Unfortunately,</span> <span class="hps">I did</span> <span class="hps">not</span> <span class="hps">picture</span> <span class="hps">the front</span> and back of jacket <span class="hps">when the</span> <span class="hps">hem</span> <span class="hps">silver</span> <span class="hps">ribbon</span> <span class="hps">and</span> <span class="hps">embroidered</span> <span class="hps">with small</span> <span class="hps">sequins.</span> <span class="hps">There was</span> <span class="hps">neither the time</span> <span class="hps">nor</span> <span class="hps">the head</span> <span class="hps">to get everything</span> <span class="hps">documented</span><span class="">.</span></span> </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-N4cgttRDSog/VqOwylsTiqI/AAAAAAAAFVQ/g2VNjFWJR-Q/s1600/12417594_10206902935985464_7911596310065989229_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-N4cgttRDSog/VqOwylsTiqI/AAAAAAAAFVQ/g2VNjFWJR-Q/s320/12417594_10206902935985464_7911596310065989229_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">© Piotr Żurek</td></tr>
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<br />atelierpolonaisehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12221915032674869681noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8315684709486567201.post-73382548420175074542015-12-24T17:24:00.001+01:002015-12-24T17:43:49.363+01:00Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Wszystkim moim czytelnikom życzę Wesołych Świąt, rodzinnej choinki i przyjemnego czasu z Rodziną i Przyjaciółmi. </div>
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For my Dears Readers:<br />
I wish During this Christmas season, may you enjoy the message of hope, love,
and peace on Earth. May all of these holiday blessings be yours to keep.
Here’s to wishing you a Merry Christmas.<br />
from<br />
Atelier Polonaise <br />
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atelierpolonaisehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12221915032674869681noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8315684709486567201.post-26725796573870562142015-12-12T17:56:00.001+01:002015-12-12T17:56:42.901+01:00Dekoracje stołowe 1750 - 1800 z dedykacją dla uczestników i organizatorów X Balu Arsenału<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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</xml><![endif]--><span style="font-size: x-small;">Serwis ten był nalany ode dna po brzegi</span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">
</span></div>
<div class="verse" style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Piankami i cukrami białymi jak śniegi:</span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">
</span></div>
<div class="verse" style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Udawał przewybornie krajobraz zimowy.</span></div>
<div class="verse" style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">
<a class="target" href="https://www.blogger.com/null" name="f8945"> </a></span></div>
<div class="verse" style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">W środku czerniał ogromny bór konfiturowy,</span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">
</span></div>
<div class="verse" style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Stronami domy, niby wioski i zaścianki,</span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">
</span></div>
<div class="verse" style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Okryte zamiast śronu cukrowymi pianki;</span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">
</span></div>
<div class="verse" style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Na krawędziach naczynia stoją dla ozdoby</span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">
</span></div>
<div class="verse" style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Niewielkie z porcelany wydęte osoby</span></div>
<div class="verse" style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">
<a class="target" href="https://www.blogger.com/null" name="f8950"> </a></span></div>
<div class="verse" style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">W polskich strojach: jakoby aktory na scenie,</span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">
</span></div>
<div class="verse" style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Zdawały się przedstawiać jakoweś zdarzenie;</span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">
</span></div>
<div class="verse" style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Gest ich sztucznie wydany, farby osobliwe,</span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">
</span></div>
<div class="verse" style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Tylko głosu im braknie, zresztą gdyby żywe.</span></div>
<div class="verse" style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="verse" style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Adam Mickiewicz, Pan Tadeusz, księga XII</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hmDjiRNNKb4/VmxMJAC_zQI/AAAAAAAAFRE/euuz19m0L2A/s1600/IMG_3277.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hmDjiRNNKb4/VmxMJAC_zQI/AAAAAAAAFRE/euuz19m0L2A/s320/IMG_3277.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">This</span> <span class="hps">text</span> <span class="hps">I wrote</span> <span class="hps">for the organizers and</span> <span class="hps">participants </span> for Arsenal Ball<span class="hps"></span> <span class="hps">who</span> <span class="hps">held</span> <span class="hps">on 16</span> <span class="hps">January 2016</span> <span class="hps">in Warsaw.</span> <span class="hps">I did not want</span> <span class="hps">to translate it into</span> <span class="hps">English</span> <span class="hps">as</span> <span class="hps">better</span> <span class="hps">to</span> <span class="hps">my</span> <span class="hps">English-speaking</span> <span class="hps">readers</span> <span class="hps">read</span> <span class="hps">texts</span> <span class="hps">about</span> <a href="http://www.historicfood.com/"><span class="hps">Ivan</span> <span class="hps">Day's</span> <span class="hps">culinary</span> <span class="hps">history</span></a><span class="">.</span></span></div>
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<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class=""> </span></span> </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
Cukrowe dekoracje sięgają jeszcze średniowiecza a także i czasów dawniejszych gdyż desery z cukru były specjalnością stołów orientalnych. Sztuka cukiernictwa rozwinęła się przede wszystkim we Włoszech dzięki handlowi (Wenecja, Genua) i hiszpańskiemu panowaniu w Neapolu gdzie rozwinęło się cukiernictwo w stylu arabskim. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
W połowie XVIII wieku stoły
zaczęto przyozdabiać lustrami i stawianymi na nich budowlami z tragantu czyli z
pasty cukrowej (<i>pasttilage</i>) i przede wszystkim miały naśladować ogrody.</div>
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Ilustracje
jak wyglądały owe budynki przedstawia między innymi Menon (autor nieznany) w <a href="http://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k5454718p"><span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><em>La science de maître d’hôtel confiseur</em></span></span></a>
(Paris: 1749). Menon zaproponował zbudowanie z cukru i ustawienie na tafli
zwierciadła świątyni Circe ( mitologicznej wróżki z przygód Odysa). Tafle
zwierciadlane były ustawiane na środku stołu dalej stawiano na tafli budynki z
cukru, porcelanowe figurki tzw. biskwity. Oprócz tego można było układać tez
dekoracje imitujące barokowe ogrody. Wykonywano je z drewna w różnych formach obklejone
ciemnym jedwabiem zazwyczaj zielonym oraz pluszem lub szenilą (materiałem który
miał imitować roślinność) a w zagłębienia dając kolorowe deserowe drażetki. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tUNieasTwTE/VmwDZt9BQSI/AAAAAAAAFQA/6Ebk5jczoTk/s1600/Menon1749.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="223" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tUNieasTwTE/VmwDZt9BQSI/AAAAAAAAFQA/6Ebk5jczoTk/s320/Menon1749.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k5454718p/f27.item">Menon, Le science de maitre d'hotel confiseur, Paris, 1749</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div id="stcpDiv" style="left: -1988px; position: absolute; top: -1999px;">
La science du maître d'hôtel confiseur</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
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Drugim dziełem była ciekawa
książka o dekorowaniu stołów<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>cukiernika
króla Stanisława Leszczyńskiego Joseph Gilliers i jego <a href="http://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k105074g"><i>Le CannamelisteFrancais</i></a> ( Nancy, 1750). W dziele tym znajdują się ilustracje zarówno dekoracji
stołowych jak też fantazyjne w guście baroku projekty stołów.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k105074g/f243.item">J. Gilliers, Le Cannameliste francais, 1750, Nancy</a></td></tr>
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Rysunek stołów Gilliersa ukazany został w rzucie z góry gdzie widać w jakiej formie były owe stoły komponowane, szkic z boku ukazuje stół w jego rzeczywistych wymiarach i dekoracji a u samej góry rysunki przedstawiają budynki świątyń i fantazyjne<i> trionfi</i> z bóstwami wykonane z pasty trangantowej. </div>
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<br /></div>
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Tego typu dekoracje stołowe można zobaczyć w próbie rekonstrukcji Ivana Day'a, którego dzieła są moim zdaniem najlepsze. Ivan Day jest znanym mistrzem rekonstrukcji kuchni przede wszystkim angielskiej. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nuAyfmDS4vQ/VmwLIZ8KqAI/AAAAAAAAFQY/tdRG916u2i0/s1600/sugarsculpture2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="222" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nuAyfmDS4vQ/VmwLIZ8KqAI/AAAAAAAAFQY/tdRG916u2i0/s320/sugarsculpture2.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.historicfood.com/Pleasures-of-the-table.htm">http://www.historicfood.com/Pleasures-of-the-table.htm</a></td></tr>
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Dekorację stołu stanowiły przede
wszystkim wyroby słodkie - z cukru czyli cukierki, drażetki, lody i wafle oraz marcepany
z których robiono imitacje owoców, wkładano je do porcelanowych koszyków i
stawiano na stole jako dekorację. Owoce w całości kandyzowane malowano białkiem
i posypywano cukrem drobno zmielonym, co imitowało oszroniony mrozem owoc. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PZl8oO73hNo/VmxQsClSgjI/AAAAAAAAFRQ/Nwd3PqO_AJ4/s1600/P1110340.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PZl8oO73hNo/VmxQsClSgjI/AAAAAAAAFRQ/Nwd3PqO_AJ4/s320/P1110340.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Florencja, wystawa cukierni - kawiarni z marcepanowymi owocami, cukierkami i drażetkami, zdjęcie moje</td></tr>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
Drażetki czyli kolorowe cukierki
stanowiły dekorację drewnianych paneli występujących w dekoracjach stołowych Menona i Gilliersa lub też wykonanych z kartonu
powleczonych odpowiednim materiałem, gdzie w zagłębienia wsypywano drażetki,
które dawały imitacje odpowiednio uformowanych klombów kwiatowych. Czasami
drażetki były układane bezpośrednio na tafli zwierciadlanej, tam też ustawiano
budowle i figury z biskwitu. Bezpośrednio na stołach ustawiono lichtarze lub
też pojedyncze świece w małych lichtarzach. Miały one za zadanie oświecać
dekorację subtelnym światłem co jest oczywiste gdyż w tamtych czasach przyjęcia
odbywały się kiedy zapadał zmrok i potrzeba było sporej ilości świec aby
oświetlić nie tylko całe pomieszczenie ale także poszczególne stoły biesiadne.
Każdy stół był przykryty białym lnianym obrusem na nim znajdowały się
zwierciadlane tafle, dekoracje oraz zastawa stołowa. </div>
<br />
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<![endif]--><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="line-height: 115%;">Innymi
smakołykami, którymi raczył się arystokratyczny stół to wszelkiego rodzaju
owoce w alkoholach (<em>fruits à l'Eau-de-Vie). </em><em><span style="font-style: normal;">Na
stole znajdowały się konfitury, lody i wafle oraz owoce kandyzowane. Istotnym
dodatkiem były kwiaty i wody zapachowe. Kwiaty mogły być kandyzowane lub
powleczone czekoladą. Wody zapachowe ustawiane w miskach służyły do odświeżania
rąk. <a href="http://www.historicfood.com/Wafer.htm">Wafl</a><a href="http://www.historicfood.com/Wafer.htm">e</a> były albo przekładane marmoladą i kremami lub też zawijane w postaci
rożków i rurek z kremem (patrz polskie ulipki). Wafle pieczone z kremem
budyniowym znanym jako <i>creme pattiserie</i> tzw. </span></em><em>canellons</em><em><span style="font-style: normal;">
znane też są we włoskim cukiernictwie. Na stoły dawano też różnego rodzaju
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<![endif]--><span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><em><span style="font-style: normal; line-height: 115%;">biszkoptowe nasączane wodą
jaśminową czy pomarańczową. Wiele przepisów na wafle i herbatniki pozostawił nam Fredrick Nutts w </span></em></span></span><i><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://books.google.pl/books?id=WgMqAAAAYAAJ&printsec=frontcover&hl=pl#v=onepage&q&f=false">The Complete Confectioner</a> </span></span></i><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: small;">(pierwsze wydanie 1789, London)</span></span><i><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></span></i></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><em><span style="font-style: normal; line-height: 115%;">Jednak najbardziej modne były w tym czasie lody.
Lody miały wtedy różne konsystencję od współczesnych granit (</span></em><em><span style="line-height: 115%;">Liqueurs glacées)</span></em><em><span style="font-style: normal; line-height: 115%;"> czyli
zamrożonego smakowego lodu odpowiednio wymieszany po konsystencję musu (</span></em><em><span style="line-height: 115%;">mousses).</span></em><em><span style="font-style: normal; line-height: 115%;"> Lody podawano w wysokich
porcelanowych filiżankach ze spodkiem. Smaki lodów<span> </span>były inne niż dzisiaj (czekoladowe czy
waniliowe) tymczasem robiono je z owoców egzotycznych i produktów, które raczej
dziś nie użyło by się do produkcji lodów – dodawano chleb, z kwiatów bzu, ananasowe,
pomarańczowe czy figowe, brzoskwiniowe z dodatkiem aromatu z gorzkich migdałów.
Lody były podawane też w różnych fantastycznych formach. </span></em><em><span style="line-height: 115%;">Fromages glaces de parmezan</span></em><em><span style="font-style: normal; line-height: 115%;"> to lody
formowane w kształt sera przypominające parmezan (Gilliers, 1749). Lody
podawano razem z owocowymi galaretkami, kremami oraz napojami. Zimą z kolei
lody były aromatyzowane owocami kandyzowanymi lub stanowiły do nich dodatek.</span></em></span></span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Py8BjdkghxQ/VmwhnGNbgNI/AAAAAAAAFQ0/SapPjRrvOho/s1600/Nutt-Ices2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Py8BjdkghxQ/VmwhnGNbgNI/AAAAAAAAFQ0/SapPjRrvOho/s320/Nutt-Ices2.jpg" width="319" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><em><a href="http://www.historicfood.com/Georgian%20Ices.htm">http://www.historicfood.com/Georgian%20Ices.htm</a></em></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><em><span style="font-style: normal; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></em></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><em><span style="font-style: normal; line-height: 115%;"> <a href="http://www.historicfood.com/Jellies.htm">Galarety </a>były także swoistymi ruchomymi formami dekoracyjnymi - niestety aby je wykonać są niezbędne rzeźbione formy do galaret. Jakie były to formy? Do wyboru i koloru - czyli od form architektonicznych najbardziej popularną była <a href="http://foodhistorjottings.blogspot.com/2011/10/solomons-temple-in-flummery-culinary.html">Świątynia Salomona</a>, którą niosąc trzęsła się niemiłosiernie. </span></em></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><em><span style="font-style: normal; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></em></span></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rYfiflhUARg/VmwgAy6KlhI/AAAAAAAAFQo/e0QIauHsbgk/s1600/Harwood%2BSoomons.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rYfiflhUARg/VmwgAy6KlhI/AAAAAAAAFQo/e0QIauHsbgk/s320/Harwood%2BSoomons.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://foodhistorjottings.blogspot.com/2011/10/solomons-temple-in-flummery-culinary.html">http://foodhistorjottings.blogspot.com/2011/10/solomons-temple-in-flummery-culinary.html</a></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><em><span style="font-style: normal;">Popularnymi
napojami oprócz wina i nalewek była orszada – napój robiony ze słodkich i
gorzkich migdałów z wodą różaną lub pomarańczową. Innym znanym napojem w XVIII
wieku był napój z syropu kapillorowego stosowany także w lecznictwie na kaszel
i bóle w plecach i w klatce piersiowej. Wody z sokami malinowymi, wiśniowym z
octem także były popularne ale w Polsce (Gołębiowski). </span></em></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-top: 12pt; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><em><span style="font-style: normal;"> <b>Stoły w Polsce.</b></span></em></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-top: 12pt; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><em><span style="font-style: normal;">Najlepiej przytoczyć słowa Łukasza Gołębiowskiego, który w swojej pracy <a href="http://delta.cbr.edu.pl/dlibra/docmetadata?id=233&from=publication&">Domy i dwory</a> (1830, Warszawa) tak opisuje stoły w Polsce w XVIII wieku: </span></em></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-top: 12pt; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><em><span style="font-style: normal;"><i>Najokazalsze stały [cukry] we środku z cukru lodowatego misternie robione: baszty, cyfry, herby, domy lub inne budowy. Dragantami te cukry zwano od gummy, która je spajała; biesiadujący burzyli je łamiąc, albo nietknięte zostawiali, czasem je posyłano temu kogo przez to uczcić chciano. Im okazalsza była biesiada, tem wspanialsze massy cukrowe (...) Stały one na tafli szklanej lub drewnianej, wyobrażały: galeryę, szpaler ogrodowy, ulicę miejską, Parnass, Olymp. Przedzielone były we środku serwisem śrebnym, zakończone małymi serwisikami i nie psuło to symetryi, pomnażało i owszem piękność widoku.(...). Przybył poseł od Porty i na wyprawionej dla niego uczcie zdziwiony ujrzał cały widok Stambułu i monarchę swego, wśród otaczającego go dworu. Tafle wysypane były piaskiem cukrowym różnego koloru, najczęściej zielonym, jako weselszym, kolorem nadziei, brzegi obwiedzione kratką z cukru, papieru białego lub złotego, w różne desenie ciętego i z zagranicy sprowadzonego, którego funt z sklepach korzennych po kilkanaście złotych przedawano (...).</i></span></em></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><em><span style="font-style: normal;"><i>Figurki.</i></span></em></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><em><span style="font-style: normal;"><i>Na taflach dla pomnożenia illuzyi, stosownie do przedmiotu, stawiano z gipsu figurki: ludzi, geniuszów, bohaterów, żołnierzy, laufrów, jeźdźców, karety parokonne, poczwórne, sześciokonne, kariolki, powozy, sanie, konchy, bogów niebieskich, ziemskich , wodnych, piekielnych, nimfy, satyrów, fauny, trzody koni, wołów, lwy, smoki, wilki, barany. Według symetryi i mysli pierwotnej drzewa łączyły się z girlandami, ulice miały domy, mury ościenne, sztachety białe z zielonemi kapitelami. Niekiedy w środku bywała świątynia sławy, altana z herbem gospodarza, państwa młodych, gościa pierwszego lub kilku znakomitszych; gdy serwis przerzynał, wizerunki podobne były podwojone. Geniusze trzymały wiersze do tej okoliczności zastosowane. Na miejscu gipsowych nastąpiły figurki z porcellany, to kolorowe, to białe lustrowane lub mat en biscuit. Ucztę późniejszych wieków kończyły zwykle, osobliwie latem cukiernicze lody. </i></span></em></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><em><span style="font-style: normal;"><i> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYJUq1KVDaJcr4GAOHDTBbbfHLsWWqh6Uv172oikEfGJ02Y8yNCSbLqFpUlTe_oBTipOaZAUJaIYWoh9dO21IoH6dD3zLG0oeOPmK_mFzQM48xzFPy84-R_mcyDLI00UKHqmTfS1G2uMFl/s1600/P1110343.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYJUq1KVDaJcr4GAOHDTBbbfHLsWWqh6Uv172oikEfGJ02Y8yNCSbLqFpUlTe_oBTipOaZAUJaIYWoh9dO21IoH6dD3zLG0oeOPmK_mFzQM48xzFPy84-R_mcyDLI00UKHqmTfS1G2uMFl/s320/P1110343.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Florencja, biszkopty, herbatniki, czekoladki, suszone owoce i włoskie nugaty, zdjęcie moje</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</i></span></em></span></span></div>
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atelierpolonaisehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12221915032674869681noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8315684709486567201.post-9820798299925225792015-12-07T23:09:00.000+01:002015-12-07T23:32:26.328+01:00Le nouveau Jeu des Modes Françoises czyli zagrajmy w gąskę<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nSLKiS99YZg/VmRiOVrxwKI/AAAAAAAAFM8/0oY5Pu3_tn4/s1600/20151204_124507.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nSLKiS99YZg/VmRiOVrxwKI/AAAAAAAAFM8/0oY5Pu3_tn4/s320/20151204_124507.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Zimowe wieczory sprzyjają różnym grom i zabawom. W dawnych
czasach kiedy śnieg był śniegiem a nie jego resztkami leżącymi tylko kilka
minut gra w gąskę była czasem umilającym zarówno dzieciom jak i dorosłym. </div>
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Od jakiegoś już czasu
moje zainteresowania skupiają się wokół historii gier planszowych znanym jako
<i>gra w gąskę</i> a jeszcze lepiej jako <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>angielskie: <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">game of goose</i>, francuskie: <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">le
Jeu de l’Oie</i>, włoskie <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">il Gioco
dell’Oca </i>i niemieckie:<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"> Gänsespiel, <span style="mso-bidi-font-style: italic;">Affenspiel. </span></i></div>
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<span style="mso-bidi-font-style: italic;"></span><br />
<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">Winter</span> <span class="hps">evenings</span> <span class="hps">favors different</span> <span class="hps">gaming</span> <span class="hps">and</span> <span class="hps">amusements</span>. <span class="hps">In the old days</span> <span class="hps">when</span> <span class="hps">the snow was</span> <span class="hps">snow</span> <span class="hps">and not his</span> <span class="hps">leftovers</span> <span class="hps">lying</span> <span class="hps">only a few minutes</span> <span class="hps">playing</span> <span class="hps">goose</span> <span class="hps">was</span> <span class="hps"></span></span><span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps"><span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">enjoyable</span></span> time for </span><span class="hps"></span> <span class="hps">both children and</span> <span class="hps">adults.</span></span><br />
<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps"><span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><br /> <span class="hps">For some time now</span> <span class="hps">my interests</span> <span class="hps">are focused on</span> <span class="hps">the history</span> <span class="hps">of board games</span> <span class="hps">known as </span><span class="hps"></span> <span class="hps"></span> <span class="hps">English</span>: <i>game</i><i> <span class="hps">of goose</span></i>, <span class="hps">French</span>: <i>le</i><i> <span class="hps">Jeu</span> <span class="hps atn">de l'</span>Oie</i>, <i><span class="hps">il</span> <span class="hps">Gioco</span> <span class="hps">dell'Oca</span></i> <span class="hps">Italian</span> <span class="hps">and German</span>: <i><span class="hps">Gänsespiel</span>, <span class="hps">Affenspiel</span></i>. </span></span></span><br />
<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps"><span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"> </span> </span></span></div>
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<span style="mso-bidi-font-style: italic;">Gra w gąskę i jej różne odmiany zdobyły
sobie największą popularność w XVIII i XIX wieku. Badacze twierdzą, że gąska
wywodzi się z Florencji i z stamtąd rozprzestrzeniła się na całą Europę.
Ferdynand Medyceusz podarował taką grę hiszpańskiemu królowi – Filipowi II. W
1597 roku gra miała się pojawić już w Anglii. </span><br />
<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">The game of</span> <span class="hps">goose</span> <span class="hps">and</span> <span class="hps">its</span> <span class="hps">different varieties</span> <span class="hps">have gained</span> <span class="hps">the greatest popularity</span> <span class="hps">in the eighteenth</span> <span class="hps">and nineteenth centuries.</span> <span class="hps">Researchers say</span> <span class="hps">that the</span> <span class="hps">game</span> <span class="hps">comes</span> <span class="hps">from</span> <span class="hps">Florence, and</span> <span class="hps">from there</span> <span class="hps">spread throughout</span> <span class="hps">Europe.</span> <span class="hps">Ferdinand</span> <span class="hps">de Medici</span> <span class="hps">gave</span> <span class="hps">the</span> <span class="hps">game</span> <span class="hps">to the Spanish</span> <span class="hps">king</span> <span class="hps">-</span> <span class="hps">Philip II</span>. <span class="hps">In 1597</span> <span class="hps">the game was</span> <span class="hps">already</span> <span class="hps">appear</span> <span class="hps">in England.</span></span><br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vReudBVig2o/VmW-cAHUI-I/AAAAAAAAFNU/j8JKca4j3Gg/s1600/gaskaucieszna1721.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vReudBVig2o/VmW-cAHUI-I/AAAAAAAAFNU/j8JKca4j3Gg/s320/gaskaucieszna1721.jpg" width="241" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.bkpan.poznan.pl/muzeum/grafika/max/c-viii-1546.html"><i>Gra włoska ucieszna Gąską zwana, drzeworyt, 1721, zbiory Biblioteki kórnickiej</i></a></td></tr>
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<span style="mso-bidi-font-style: italic;">Aby zagrać w gąskę potrzebna jest plansza z
polami oraz zapis reguły gry, kostki do gry (<i>dice</i>), żetony (<i>tokens</i>) a czasami
także i karty. Najwcześniejsze plansze były drukowane rzadko znajduje się je
specjalnie malowane mogły być też rytowane lub w formie drzeworytów przeznaczone
do druku. Kupowano je u księgarzy. </span><br />
<br />
<span style="mso-bidi-font-style: italic;"><span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">To play the</span> <span class="hps">goose</span> <span class="hps">you need a</span> <span class="hps">board</span> <span class="hps">with fields</span> <span class="hps">and recording</span> <span class="hps">rules of the game</span>, <span class="hps">dice</span><span class="hps atn"></span>, tokens<span class="hps atn"></span> <span class="hps">and sometimes</span> <span class="hps">also</span> <span class="hps">the card.</span> <span class="hps">The earliest</span> <span class="hps">charts</span> <span class="hps">were printed</span> <span class="hps">rarely see</span> <span class="hps">them</span> <span class="hps">specially</span> <span class="hps">painted</span> <span class="hps">can</span> <span class="hps">also be</span> <span class="hps">engraved</span> <span class="hps">or in the form</span> <span class="hps">of woodcuts</span> <span class="hps">to print.</span> <span class="hps">They bought</span> <span class="hps">it at</span> <span class="hps">booksellers</span>.</span> </span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AJf0py_QBKU/VmXCWcH8xvI/AAAAAAAAFNg/_3MpR0p6W0k/s1600/can_090.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AJf0py_QBKU/VmXCWcH8xvI/AAAAAAAAFNg/_3MpR0p6W0k/s320/can_090.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://classes.bnf.fr/candide/albums/jeu/">P. L. Surugue, & J.S. Chardin, Le Jeu de l’Oye, 1745. BN, Paris</a></td></tr>
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<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<span style="mso-bidi-font-style: italic;">Gra w gąskę była także grą edukacyjną i taką
dziś jest najbardziej znaną. Gry edukacyjne rozwinęły się we Francji w XVII
wieku. Dzięki niej dzieci uczono historii danego kraju, religii czy też znanych postaci literackich,
bajek i pocztu władców danego kraju. Dla dorosłych częstymi tematami były
zagadnienia historyczne, polityczne, związane z wojskowością czy marynistyką. Dla młodzieży grami bazującymi na zasadach gąski były gry związane z miłością. </span><br />
<br />
<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">The </span><span class="hps">goose game</span> <span class="hps">were</span> <span class="hps">also</span> <span class="hps">educational game</span> <span class="hps">and</span> <span class="hps">such a</span> <span class="hps">day</span> <span class="hps">is the best known</span>. <span class="hps">Educational games</span> <span class="hps">developed</span> <span class="hps">in France in</span> <span class="hps">the seventeenth</span> <span class="hps">century.</span> <span class="hps"></span><span class="hps"></span> <span class="hps">Children</span> <span class="hps">were taught</span> <span class="hps">the history of the</span> <span class="hps">country</span>, <span class="hps">religion, or</span> <span class="hps">well-known</span> <span class="hps">literary characters</span>, <span class="hps">stories and</span> <span class="hps">fellowship</span> <span class="hps">rulers</span> <span class="hps">of the country.</span> <span class="hps">Adult</span> <span class="hps">frequent</span> <span class="hps">topics were</span> <span class="hps">issues of</span> <span class="hps">historical</span>, political, <span class="hps">military</span> <span class="hps">or</span> <span class="hps">Navy</span>. <span class="hps">For teens</span> <span class="hps">games</span>-based <span class="hps">on the principles of</span> <span class="hps">games</span> <span class="hps">were</span><span class="hps"></span> <span class="hps">related to love</span><span class="">.</span></span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ULzQ7E4JELY/VmXEBvLZ6KI/AAAAAAAAFNs/wngvGc12qzQ/s1600/chodowiecki_jeu_tirage.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ULzQ7E4JELY/VmXEBvLZ6KI/AAAAAAAAFNs/wngvGc12qzQ/s320/chodowiecki_jeu_tirage.jpg" width="203" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://peccadille.net/2014/10/22/enquete-matrices-cuivre-episode-2/chodowiecki_jeu_tirage/">D. Chodowiecki, Le Jeu, 1779</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="mso-bidi-font-style: italic;">Jedne z interesujących mnie gier powstawały w drugiej połowie XVIII wieku i dotyczyły przede
wszystkim mody, fryzur, sztuk pięknych jak teatru i tematów związanych z
miłością. Jedną z takich plansz gry w gąskę postanowiłam odtworzyć. Wybrałam
zatem grę </span><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Le nouveau Jeu des Modes
Françoises</i> datowaną na okres ok. 1780 roku. Gra jest na tyle
interesująca, że warto było poświęcić jej trochę czasu. Wybrałam ją też
dlatego, że zamieszczono dobrej jakości zdjęcia także mogłam czarno – białą
wersję wydrukować i pomalować pola akwarelami według drugiej wersji tej samej
gry tylko tym razem w kolorze. Należy tutaj wspomnieć, że historia gier
planszowych ma już spory dorobek naukowy, własne konferencje i publikacje.
Warto tutaj wspomnieć o stronie internetowej z której korzystałam. Strona ta
jest kopalnią wiedzy i samych gier i umożliwia ich bliższe poznanie. Tworzą ją
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<br />
<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">One</span> <span class="hps">of the most interesting</span> <span class="hps">games</span> <span class="hps">I</span> <span class="hps">arose</span> <span class="hps">in the second</span> <span class="hps">half of the eighteenth</span> <span class="hps">century,</span> <span class="hps">and</span> <span class="hps">related mainly to</span> <span class="hps">fashion</span>, <span class="hps">hairstyles</span>, <span class="hps">fine arts</span> <span class="hps">like</span> <span class="hps">theater and</span> <span class="hps">topics related to</span> <span class="hps">love.</span> <span class="hps">One of these</span> <span class="hps">boards</span> <span class="hps">play in</span> <span class="hps">goose game</span> <span class="hps">decided to</span> <span class="hps">play.</span> <span class="hps">Thus,</span> <span class="hps">the game</span> <span class="hps">I chose</span> <i><span class="hps">Le</span> <span class="hps">nouveau</span> <span class="hps">Jeu</span> <span class="hps">des</span> <span class="hps">Modes</span> <span class="hps">Françoises</span></i> <span class="hps">dating back to</span> <span class="hps">the period of</span> <span class="hps"></span> <span class="hps">1780</span>. <span class="hps">The game is</span> <span class="hps">interesting enough</span> <span class="hps">that</span> <span class="hps">it was worth taking</span> <span class="hps">the</span> <span class="hps">time</span>. <span class="hps">I chose</span> <span class="hps">it</span> <span class="hps">also because</span> <span class="hps">I find a</span> <span class="hps">good</span> <span class="hps">quality pictures</span> <span class="hps">as</span> <span class="hps">I could</span> <span class="hps">in black</span> <span class="hps">-</span> <span class="hps">white version of</span> <span class="hps">print</span> <span class="hps">and paint</span> <span class="hps">watercolors</span> <span class="hps">field</span> <span class="hps">by</span> <span class="hps">the second version</span> <span class="hps">of the same game</span>, only this time <span class="hps">in color.</span> <span class="hps">It should be</span> <span class="hps">mentioned here</span> <span class="hps">that the history</span> <span class="hps">of board games</span> <span class="hps">has</span> <span class="hps">already</span> <span class="hps">considerable</span> <span class="hps">academic achievements</span>, <span class="hps">their own conferences</span> <span class="hps">and publications</span>. <span class="hps">It is worth</span> <span class="hps">mentioning the</span> <span class="hps">best website</span>: </span><span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><a href="http://www.giochidelloca.it/index.php">Giochi dell’Oca e di Percorso</a> <span class="hps">from which</span> <span class="hps">I used</span>. <span class="hps">This website</span> <span class="hps">is a mine</span> <span class="hps">of knowledge and</span> <span class="hps">the games themselves</span> <span class="hps">and</span> <span class="hps">allows them to</span> <span class="hps">deeper understanding</span>. <span class="hps">It consists of</span> <span class="hps">enthusiasts</span>, <span class="hps">collectors</span> <span class="hps">and</span> <span class="hps">scholars</span> <span class="hps">in one person.</span></span><br />
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<span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Le
Nouveau Jeu des Modes Françoises </i>znajduje się w w kolekcji barona Ferdynanda de Rotschilda w
Waddeson (wersja kolorowa) w Anglii, <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Bibliotheque
Nationale we Francji posiada wersje kolorowaną ale w lepszej jakości. Sama gra ma formę i zasady gry w gąskę. W środku znajduje się spirala, którą tworzą pola, których jest 63.<br />
<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><i><span class="hps">Le Nouveau</span> <span class="hps">Jeu</span> <span class="hps">des</span> <span class="hps">Modes</span> <span class="hps">Françoises</span></i> <span class="hps">in the collection</span> <span class="hps">of Baron</span> <span class="hps">Ferdinand</span> <span class="hps">de</span> <span class="hps">Rothschild</span> <span class="hps">in</span> <span class="hps">Waddeson</span> <span class="hps atn">(</span>color version) in England, <span class="hps">Bibliotheque Nationale</span> <span class="hps">in France</span> <span class="hps">has</span> <span class="hps">color versions</span> <span class="hps">but</span> <span class="hps">with better quality</span>. <span class="hps">The game itself</span> <span class="hps">is in the form</span> <span class="hps">and</span> <span class="hps">rules of the game</span> <span class="hps">in the</span> <span class="hps">goose</span>. <span class="hps">In the</span> <span class="hps">middle is a</span> <span class="hps">spiral</span> <span class="hps">that</span> <span class="hps">form</span> <span class="hps">field</span> <span class="hps">is</span> Le Nouveau Jeu des Modes Françoises in the collection of Baron Ferdinand de Rothschild in Waddeson (color version) in England, Bibliotheque Nationale in France has color versions but with better quality. The game itself is in the form and rules of the game in the goose. In the middle is a spiral that make up the space, which is <span class="hps">63</span>.</span> <br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-x5hK5KOI0cY/VmXHJGRX8RI/AAAAAAAAFOI/HoQoCOANKPc/s1600/modefrancaise0635a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="224" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-x5hK5KOI0cY/VmXHJGRX8RI/AAAAAAAAFOI/HoQoCOANKPc/s320/modefrancaise0635a.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span lang="EN-US"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><a href="http://www.giochidelloca.it/images/m/modefrancaise0635a.jpg">LeNouveau Jeu des Modes Françoises (original game), 1780, </a><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"> </i><br />
<a href="http://Giochi dell’Oca e di Percorso (www.giochidelloca.it)">Giochi dell’Oca e di Percorso (www.giochidelloca.it)</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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W polach znajdują się kobiece postacie w modnych fryzurach i strojach. Większość z nich jest znana z ówczesnych żurnali mody i grawiur znanych francuskich artystów. Ciekawostką jest fakt, że ta francuska gra została wydrukowana w Londynie w drukarni Richarda Sayera i Johna Smitha w Cheapside ( jeśli dobrze pamiętam to dzielnica Londynu była wyśmiewana przez siostrę pana Bingleya w powieści Jane Austen <i>Duma i uprzedzenie</i>).<br />
<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">The</span> <span class="hps">spaces</span> <span class="hps">are</span> <span class="hps">female characters</span> <span class="hps">in trendy</span> <span class="hps">hairstyles</span> <span class="hps">and</span> <span class="hps">costumes.</span> <span class="hps">Most of them are</span> <span class="hps">known</span> <span class="hps">from contemporary</span> <span class="hps">fashion magazines</span> <span class="hps">and</span> <span class="hps">fashion</span> <span class="hps">engravings</span> <span class="hps">of famous French</span> <span class="hps">artists.</span> <span class="hps">An interesting fact is</span> <span class="hps">that the</span> <span class="hps">French</span> <span class="hps">game</span> <span class="hps">was printed</span> <span class="hps">in London</span> <span class="hps">in the printing</span> <span class="hps">of Richard</span> <span class="hps">Sayer</span> <span class="hps">and John</span> <span class="hps">Smith in</span> <span class="hps">Cheapside</span> <span class="hps atn">(</span>if I remember <span class="hps">this</span> <span class="hps">part of London</span> <span class="hps">was</span> <span class="hps">ridiculed</span> <span class="hps">by</span> <span class="hps">Mr.</span> <span class="hps">Bingley's</span> <span class="hps">sister</span> <span class="hps">in</span> <span class="hps">Jane Austen's novel</span> <i><span class="hps">Pride and Prejudice</span></i>)<span class="">.</span></span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Zm0DTKjCn8w/VmXF8P1ujnI/AAAAAAAAFN8/cr0VCXtBiQU/s1600/20151203_131633.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Zm0DTKjCn8w/VmXF8P1ujnI/AAAAAAAAFN8/cr0VCXtBiQU/s320/20151203_131633.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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W środku gry umieszczone zostały zasady gry w języku francuskim. Na początku autor gry wyjaśnia, że gra została stworzona dla edukacji młodych ludzi w kwestii elegancji jak i zapoznania się z nową modą, która w ostatnich trzech latach tak szybko się rozwinęła ( dodając, że ma tylko 63 pola a nie dwa tysiące czyli tyle ile w tym czasie fryzur powstało).<br />
<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">In</span> <span class="hps">the middle of the</span> <span class="hps">game</span> <span class="hps">rules of the game</span> <span class="hps">have been placed</span> <span class="hps">in French</span>. <span class="hps">At the beginning</span> <span class="hps">the author of</span> <span class="hps">the game</span> <span class="hps">explains that</span> <span class="hps">the game was developed</span> <span class="hps">for</span> <span class="hps">the education of young</span> <span class="hps">people</span> <span class="hps">in terms</span> <span class="hps">of elegance</span> <span class="hps">and</span> <span class="hps">familiarize yourself with</span> <span class="hps">the new fashion</span>, which <span class="hps">in</span> <span class="hps">the last three years</span> <span class="hps">so</span> <span class="hps">rapidly</span> <span class="hps">developed</span> <span class="hps atn">(</span>adding <span class="hps">that he had</span> <span class="hps">only</span> <span class="hps">63</span> <span class="hps">field</span> <span class="hps">rather than</span> <span class="hps">two thousand</span> <span class="hps">or</span> <span class="hps">as much as</span> <span class="hps">in</span> <span class="hps">during this time</span> <span class="hps">of hairstyles</span> <span class="hps">created</span><span class="">)</span>.</span> <br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kKeY6klr8V0/VmXHuH0iEtI/AAAAAAAAFOQ/_T-68aCUARI/s1600/PicMonkey%2BCollagecuisieniere2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="228" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kKeY6klr8V0/VmXHuH0iEtI/AAAAAAAAFOQ/_T-68aCUARI/s320/PicMonkey%2BCollagecuisieniere2.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>La Cuisiniere </i>and the same person in
<a href="http://digital.bunka.ac.jp/kichosho_e/search_list2.php"><i>Galerie des modes et costumes français </i>1778-1787</a>, Bunka Gakuen Library<i> </i></td></tr>
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W grę gra się za pomocą żetonów i dwóch kostek do gry. Tak zwane numery ryzykowne (hazardowe) czyli te które każą graczowi albo cofnąć się na jakieś pole lub przeczekać kolejkę lub też "płacić" żetonami. I tak dla przykładu pole numer 5 nazwane<i> La Cuisiniere </i>- gracz musi dać dwa żetony i przechodzi na pole numer 14 do guwernantki, jeśli znajdzie się na polu 22 to gracz "tęskni" za kochanką w ogrodzie i czeka dwie kolejki. Gracz który trafi na pole 33 musi omawiać z Damą aspekty mody i czeka tak długo aż kolejny gracz trafi na to pole zwalniając poprzednika od salonowej rozmowy.<br />
<br />
<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">The</span> <span class="hps">game is played</span> <span class="hps">using</span> <span class="hps">tokens</span> <span class="hps">and two</span> <span class="hps">dice</span>. <span class="hps">The so-called</span> <span class="hps">risky</span> <span class="hps">numbers</span> <span class="hps atn">(</span>gambling), <span class="hps">that is, those</span> <span class="hps">which make</span> <span class="hps">the player</span> <span class="hps">or</span> <span class="hps">go back</span> <span class="hps">to</span> <span class="hps">a field</span> <span class="hps">or</span> <span class="hps">wait</span> <span class="hps">queue</span> <span class="hps">or</span> <span class="hps atn">"</span>pay" <span class="hps">tokens.</span> <span class="hps">And so, for</span> <span class="hps">example,</span> <span class="hps">the space</span> <span class="hps">number 5</span> <span class="hps">called</span> <i><span class="hps">La</span> <span class="hps">Cuisinier</span></i> <span class="hps">-</span> <span class="hps">the player must</span> <span class="hps">give two</span> <span class="hps">tokens</span> <span class="hps">and passes</span> <span class="hps">on</span> <span class="hps">space</span> <span class="hps">number</span> <span class="hps">14 to</span> <span class="hps">the <i>governess</i></span>, <span class="hps">if it is on</span> <span class="hps">the</span> <span class="hps">22</span> <span class="hps">the player</span> <span class="hps atn">"</span>longing" <span class="hps">for the</span> <span class="hps">lover</span> <span class="hps">in the garden</span> <span class="hps">and waiting</span> <span class="hps">two rounds</span>. <span class="hps">The player who</span> <span class="hps">hits the</span> <span class="hps">space 33</span> <span class="hps">must</span> <span class="hps">discuss</span> <span class="hps">with</span> <span class="hps">Lady</span> <span class="hps">aspects of</span> <span class="hps">fashion</span> <span class="hps">and waits</span> <span class="hps">as long as</span> <span class="hps">the next player</span> <span class="hps">goes</span> <span class="hps">on</span> <span class="hps">the field</span> <span class="hps">by releasing</span> <span class="hps">the predecessor</span> <span class="hps">of</span> <span class="hps">drawing-room</span> <span class="hps">conversation.</span></span><br />
<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps"> </span></span> <br />
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<![endif]--><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: PL; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: PL;">Spotkanie
z patrycjuszką (<i>La Bourgeoise parée</i>) na polu 41 powoduje powrót do pola 30 czyli do modystki (</span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: PL; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: PL;"><i>La Marchande de Modes</i>) w celu instrukcji jak należy się ubrać aby pokazać się w towarzystwie.<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";"> </span>Trafiając
na pole numer 50 ( <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">La Pimpante</i>)
trzeba rozmawiać z Damą <span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">Gadulińską </span>o niczym aż do momentu wyzwoliciela ( <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">La Libérateur</i>) i nie ponosi się za to żadnych opłat. Gracz znajdujący się na polu 59 trafia w samo sedno tej gry - <i>L</i></span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: PL; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: PL;"><i>a belle Jambe d'une Nymphe</i> to dama, która zakłada pończochy - gracz płaci 4 żetony i rozpoczyna grę od początku !<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";"> Pole kończące grę z numerem 63 jest <i><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">La Dame de Qualite en grande robe coeffee avec un Bonn<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">et ou Pouf elegant dit a la Victoire<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";"> </span></span></span></i><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">- kto pierwszy zdobędzie pole z tym numerem wygrywa grę. Warto też przyjrzeć się 4 naro<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">żnikom gdzie przedstawiono eleganckie towarzystwo <span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">w parku i na ulicy a także <span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">scenkę w sklepie i w akademii fryzjerstwa. </span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: PL; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: PL;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";"><span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">Meeting with</span> <span class="hps"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">bourgeois lady</span></span> <span class="hps atn">(</span><i>La <span class="hps">Bourgeoise</span> </i><span class="hps"><i><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">paree</span></i>)</span> <span class="hps">in a <span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">space</span></span> <span class="hps">41</span> <span class="hps">to return</span> <span class="hps">to the <span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">space</span></span> <span class="hps">30</span> <span class="hps">or</span> <span class="hps">a</span> <span class="hps">milliner</span> <span class="hps atn">(</span><i>La <span class="hps">Marchande</span> <span class="hps">de</span> <span class="hps">Modes</span></i>) for <span class="hps">instructions</span> <span class="hps">on how to</span> <span class="hps">dress</span> <span class="hps">to show up</span> <span class="hps">in the company</span>. <span class="hps">Hitting</span> <span class="hps">the<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";"> space</span></span> <span class="hps">number 50</span> <span class="hps atn">(</span><i>La <span class="hps">Pimpante</span></i>) <span class="hps">need to talk</span> <span class="hps">with</span> <span class="hps">Lady</span> <span class="hps">about anything</span> <span class="hps">until</span> <span class="hps">the <span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">next p<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">layer come his place</span></span></span> <span class="hps atn">(</span><i>La <span class="hps">Libérateur</span></i>) <span class="hps">and</span> <span class="hps">not be held</span> <span class="hps">up</span> <span class="hps">for</span> <span class="hps">no charge</span>. <span class="hps">A player in</span> <span class="hps">the <span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">space</span> of</span> <span class="hps">59</span> <span class="hps">goes</span> <span class="hps">to the heart</span> <span class="hps">of the game</span> <span class="hps">-</span> <i><span class="hps">La belle</span> <span class="hps">Jambe</span> <span class="hps atn">d'</span>une <span class="hps">Nymphe</span></i> <span class="hps">this</span> <span class="hps">lady who</span> <span class="hps">assumes</span> <span class="hps">stockings</span> <span class="hps">- the player</span> <span class="hps">pays</span> <span class="hps">4</span> <span class="hps">chips and</span> <span class="hps">starts the game</span> <span class="hps">from the beginning</span>! <span class="hps">The <span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";">space</span></span> <span class="hps">ending</span> <span class="hps">the game</span> <span class="hps">with the number</span> <span class="hps">63 is</span> <i><span class="hps">La Dame</span> <span class="hps">de</span> <span class="hps">Qualite</span> <span class="hps">en</span> <span class="hps">grande</span> <span class="hps">robe</span> <span class="hps">coeffee</span> <span class="hps">Bonnet</span> <span class="hps">avec</span> <span class="hps">un</span> <span class="hps">ou</span> <span class="hps">Pouf</span> <span class="hps">elegant</span> <span class="hps">dit</span> <span class="hps">la</span> <span class="hps">Victoire</span></i> <span class="hps">- who</span> <span class="hps">will score</span> <span class="hps">the first</span> <span class="hps">field with</span> <span class="hps">that number</span> <span class="hps">wins the game.</span> <span class="hps">It should also</span> <span class="hps">look at the</span> <span class="hps">four</span> <span class="hps">corners of</span> <span class="hps">which shows</span> <span class="hps">elegant</span> <span class="hps">company</span> <span class="hps">in the park and</span> <span class="hps">on the street</span> <span class="hps">as well as</span> <span class="hps">a scene</span> <span class="hps">in a shop,</span> <span class="hps">hairdressing</span> <span class="hps">academy</span><span class="">.</span></span> </span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YPplQ2wnpyE/VmXIsu7XoZI/AAAAAAAAFOY/_rKdMPzO0QM/s1600/PicMonkey%2BCollagejambe1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="242" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YPplQ2wnpyE/VmXIsu7XoZI/AAAAAAAAFOY/_rKdMPzO0QM/s320/PicMonkey%2BCollagejambe1.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La Belle Jambe and the same in <a href="http://digital.bunka.ac.jp/kichosho_e/search_list2.php"><i>Galerie des modes et costumes francaises</i></a>, 1778 - 1787, Bunka Gakuen Library</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-x17gaqCuEZM/VmYIm5d2JFI/AAAAAAAAFPs/krxXhJto5mc/s1600/PicMonkey%2BCollage1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="257" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-x17gaqCuEZM/VmYIm5d2JFI/AAAAAAAAFPs/krxXhJto5mc/s320/PicMonkey%2BCollage1.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span lang="EN-US"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Le
Nouveau Jeu des Modes Françoises, 1780, corners, my copy</i> </td></tr>
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Gier powiązanych z ubiorami zachowało się kilka w tym <i>Le Nouveau jeu du Costume et des Coeffures des Dames, </i>wydana w 1778 i związana jest ze zwycięstwem floty francuskiej nad angielską skutkiem czego było powstanie chyba najbardziej znanej fryzury Rose Bertine - <i>La Belle Poule. </i>We wstępie do reguły tej gry autor pisze,<i> że Piękno zawsze powinno zwyciężać </i>i<i> </i>zwycięża pod postacią królowej<i> </i>Marii Antoniny triumfującej na statku Belle Poule na polu numer 63.<br />
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<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">Games</span> <span class="hps">related with costumes</span><span class="hps"></span> <span class="hps">survived</span> <span class="hps">several</span> <span class="hps">including</span> <i><span class="hps">Le Nouveau</span> <span class="hps">jeu</span> <span class="hps">du</span> <span class="hps">Costume</span> <span class="hps">et des</span> <span class="hps">Coeffures</span> <span class="hps">des</span> <span class="hps">Dames</span></i><i>,</i> released in <span class="hps">1778</span> <span class="hps">and</span> <span class="hps">is associated</span> <span class="hps">with the victory</span> <span class="hps">of the French fleet</span> <span class="hps">on the English</span> <span class="hps">result of which</span> <span class="hps">was the creation of</span> <span class="hps">perhaps</span> <span class="hps">the most famous</span> <span class="hps">hairstyles</span> <span class="hps">Rose</span> <span class="hps">Bertin</span> <span class="hps">-</span> <i><span class="hps">La Belle</span> <span class="hps">Poule</span></i>. <span class="hps">In the introduction</span> <span class="hps">to the</span> <span class="hps">rules of the game</span> <span class="hps">author</span> <span class="hps">writes that</span> <span class="hps">beauty</span> <span class="hps">should always</span> <span class="hps">win</span> <span class="hps">and</span> <span class="hps">wins</span> <span class="hps">as</span> <span class="hps">of Queen</span> <span class="hps">Marie Antoinette</span> <span class="hps">triumphant</span> <span class="hps">on board</span> <span class="hps">the Belle</span> <span class="hps">Poule</span> <span class="hps">at</span> <span class="hps">the</span> <span class="hps">number</span> <span class="hps">63</span><span class="">.</span></span> <br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UommrKY5V9Y/VmXsw9j6qNI/AAAAAAAAFOo/v-BmhUqEAYI/s1600/hairstyles1184a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="228" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UommrKY5V9Y/VmXsw9j6qNI/AAAAAAAAFOo/v-BmhUqEAYI/s320/hairstyles1184a.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Le Nouveau jeu du Costume et des Coeffures des Dames, 1778, <a href="http://www.giochidelloca.it/scheda.php?id=1184">Giochi dell O'ca et il Percorso</a></i> </td></tr>
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Z 1800 roku datowana jest gra powiązana tematycznie z ubiorami <i>Nouveau jeu des costumes des dames françaises, par un adorateur du beau sexe. </i>Gra<i> </i>składa się z 63 pól podobnie jak w poprzedniej grze są pola ryzykowne gdzie trzeba zastosować się reguł gry podanych w środku okręgu.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">The game <i>Le</i></span><i> <span class="hps">nouveau</span> <span class="hps">jeu</span> <span class="hps">des</span> <span class="hps">costumes</span> <span class="hps">Françaises</span> <span class="hps">des</span> <span class="hps">dames</span>, <span class="hps">par</span> <span class="hps">un</span> <span class="hps">adorateur</span> <span class="hps">du</span> <span class="hps">beau</span> <span class="hps">sexe </span></i><span class="hps">from 1800</span><i></i><span class="hps"> consists of</span> <span class="hps">63</span> <span class="hps">fields</span>, like <span class="hps">in the previous</span> <span class="hps">game are</span> <span class="hps">risky</span> <span class="hps">field</span> <span class="hps">where you have to</span> <span class="hps">follow the</span> <span class="hps">rules of the game</span> <span class="hps">given in</span> <span class="hps">the middle of the</span> <span class="hps">circle.</span></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6j8NXP9HPOc/VmXtXyyNnzI/AAAAAAAAFOw/Eh_hh5kcSss/s1600/jeucostumes0620a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="270" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6j8NXP9HPOc/VmXtXyyNnzI/AAAAAAAAFOw/Eh_hh5kcSss/s320/jeucostumes0620a.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Nouveau jeu des costumes des dames françaises, par un adorateur du beau sexe, </i>1800<i>, </i><a href="http://www.giochidelloca.it/scheda.php?id=620"><i>Giochi dell O'ca et il Percorso</i></a></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<span style="mso-bidi-font-style: italic;"> Z pewnością gąską wesołą były gry miłosne, ich zasady mniej więcej były podobne do gry w gąskę ale można było tam grać specjalnymi kartami lub żetonami. <i>Les Etrennes de la Jeunesse: Le Petit Jeu d'amour, </i>pochodząca z 1805 roku. Plansza przedstawia dwa koła jeden przeznaczony dla mężczyzn a drugie dla kobiet. Gra się zatem w tę grę parami mieszanymi, każda para ściga się z przeciwnikiem, natomiast trafiając na zagrożone pola uczestnik gry musi wykonywać pewne zadania takie jak np partnerka gry może przywiązywać partnera do krzesła pończochami. Dziś może się wydawać to raczej frywolne i pruderyjne ale w końcu XVIII i na początku XIX wieku gry miały za zadanie uczyć aktywnego uczestniczenia w towarzystwie obojga płci. Gra ta była chyba znana już wcześniej gdyż jej reguły znalazły się w </span><i><a href="http://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k6136555t">Encyclopédie méthodique. Dictionnaire des jeux</a> </i>autorstwa J. Lacombe wydawanej w latach 1798 - 99.<br />
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<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">Certainly</span> <span class="hps">goose game</span> <span class="hps">were</span> <span class="hps">game of</span> <span class="hps">love</span>, <span class="hps">the</span> <span class="hps">rules</span> <span class="hps">were</span> <span class="hps">more or less</span> <span class="hps">similar</span> <span class="hps">to the game</span> <span class="hps">of</span> <span class="hps">goose</span> <span class="hps">but</span> <span class="hps">could have been</span> <span class="hps">there to play</span> <span class="hps">special</span> <span class="hps">cards</span> <span class="hps">or</span> <span class="hps">chips.</span> <i><span class="hps">Les</span> <span class="hps">Etrennes</span> <span class="hps">de</span> <span class="hps">la</span> <span class="hps">Jeunesse</span> <span class="hps">Le</span> <span class="hps">Petit</span> <span class="hps">Jeu</span> <span class="hps atn">d'</span>amour</i>, dating <span class="hps">from 1805</span>. <span class="hps">It depicts</span> <span class="hps">two wheels</span> <span class="hps">one</span> <span class="hps">designed for men</span> <span class="hps">and one for</span> <span class="hps">women.</span> <span class="hps">The game</span>, therefore, <span class="hps">in</span> <span class="hps">this game</span> <span class="hps">of mixed</span> <span class="hps">pairs</span>, each pair <span class="hps">racing against</span> <span class="hps">an opponent</span>, while <span class="hps">hitting</span> <span class="hps">endangered</span> <span class="hps">space</span> <span class="hps">game</span> <span class="hps">participant</span> <span class="hps">must perform certain</span> <span class="hps">tasks</span> <span class="hps">such as</span> <span class="hps">playing</span> <span class="hps">partner</span> <span class="hps">can</span> <span class="hps">attach</span> <span class="hps">your partner</span> <span class="hps">to a chair</span> <span class="hps">stockings</span>! <span class="hps">Today</span> <span class="hps">it may seem</span> <span class="hps">rather</span> <span class="hps">frivolous</span> <span class="hps">and</span> <span class="hps">prudish</span> <span class="hps">but</span> <span class="hps">in the late eighteenth</span> <span class="hps">and early</span> <span class="hps">nineteenth</span> <span class="hps">century,</span> <span class="hps">the games are</span> <span class="hps">designed</span> <span class="hps">to teach</span> <span class="hps">actively participate</span> <span class="hps">in the company of</span> <span class="hps">both sexes.</span> <span class="hps">This game</span> <span class="hps">was probably</span> <span class="hps">known</span> <span class="hps">already</span> <span class="hps">because</span> <span class="hps">its rules</span> <span class="hps">were included in</span> <span class="hps">the <a href="http://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k6136555t"><i>Encyclopédie</i></a></span><a href="http://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k6136555t"><i> <span class="hps">Méthodique</span>. <span class="hps">Dictionnaire</span> <span class="hps">des</span> <span class="hps">jeux</span></i></a> <span class="hps">by J.</span> <span class="hps">Lacombe</span> <span class="hps">published</span> <span class="hps">in the years</span> <span class="hps">1798-1799</span>.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TLEUrELHZVo/VmXwk6RN-JI/AAAAAAAAFPE/Vdqz1R_LL_g/s1600/etrennesjeunesse0921a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="226" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TLEUrELHZVo/VmXwk6RN-JI/AAAAAAAAFPE/Vdqz1R_LL_g/s320/etrennesjeunesse0921a.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-style: italic;"><i>Les Etrennes de la Jeunesse: Le Petit Jeu d'amour, 1805, </i></span><a href="http://www.giochidelloca.it/scheda.php?id=1181"><i>Giochi dell O'ca et il Percorso</i></a> </td></tr>
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Z kolei dla graczy lubujących się w sztuce wojskowej czy marynistycznej także mogą coś dla siebie znaleźć. Kilka z nich powstawało z myślą o studentach uczelni wojskowych. Jak dla mnie wygląda na dość skomplikowaną.<br />
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<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">But for</span> <span class="hps">players</span> <span class="hps">who like</span> <span class="hps">to</span> <span class="hps">play</span> <span class="hps">a military</span> <span class="hps">or</span> <span class="hps">nautical</span> <span class="hps">may also</span> <span class="hps">find</span> <span class="hps">something</span> <span class="hps">for themselves</span>. <span class="hps">Some of them</span> <span class="hps">arose</span> <span class="hps">designed for students</span> <span class="hps">of military academies</span>. <span class="hps">To me</span> <span class="hps">it looks</span> <span class="hps">pretty</span> <span class="hps">complicated</span><span class="">.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Wcv0xhwMjwo/VmX06LI1yWI/AAAAAAAAFPQ/0ZbOxwudy6I/s1600/nouveaujeumarine0863a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Wcv0xhwMjwo/VmX06LI1yWI/AAAAAAAAFPQ/0ZbOxwudy6I/s320/nouveaujeumarine0863a.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Le Nouveau Jeu de Marine, 1768, </i>dedykowana admirałowi Francji księciu de Penthièvre,<a href="http://www.giochidelloca.it/scheda.php?id=863"> Giochi dell O'ca et il Percorso</a></td></tr>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-style: italic;"> </span></i><span style="mso-bidi-font-style: italic;">Dla graczy, którzy często czekają w kolejkach np do prawników, nie mając co robić mogą grać grę <i>L’Escole des Plaideurs</i> (1685), z której mogą dowiedzieć się o wynikach swojej sprawy - tak autor tłumaczy przyczynę powstania tej gry choć badacze uważają ją za grę satyryczną która odnosi się do sztuki Racine'a <i>Les Plaideurs</i> (Pieniacze). </span></div>
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<span style="mso-bidi-font-style: italic;">Wiele z tych gier odnosi się np do życia Napoleona, ważnych bitew analogicznie w Anglii doceniany był Wellington. Gry planszowe stanowiły nie tylko aspekt hazardu ale także nauki i zwykłej zabawy towarzyskiej podczas bali czy wieczorków. Wiele z tych gier dziś nadaje się do poznawania dziedzin życia które zapewne mogą być przydatne w życiu rekonstruktora i nie tylko. Ja w każdym razie będę z tego przywileju korzystać i zapewne pokuszę się o wykonanie kolejnych kopii gier. </span></div>
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<span style="mso-bidi-font-style: italic;"><span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">For players who</span> <span class="hps">often wait</span> <span class="hps">in queues</span> <span class="hps">for example,</span> <span class="hps">to lawyers</span>, not having <span class="hps">what to do</span> <span class="hps">can play</span> <span class="hps">a game</span> <span class="hps atn">of <i>L'</i></span><i>Escole <span class="hps">des</span> <span class="hps">Plaideurs</span></i> <span class="hps atn">(</span>1685), <span class="hps">from which they can</span> <span class="hps">learn about</span> <span class="hps">the outcome of his</span> <span class="hps">case</span> <span class="hps">-</span> <span class="hps">as</span> <span class="hps">the author explains</span> <span class="hps">the cause of</span> <span class="hps">the game</span> <span class="hps">while researchers</span> <span class="hps">consider it</span> <span class="hps">satirical</span> <span class="hps">play</span> <span class="hps">that relates</span> <span class="hps">to the art of</span> <span class="hps">Racine's</span> <i><span class="hps">Les</span> <span class="hps">Plaideurs</span></i> <span class="hps atn">(</span>Litigant).<br /><br /> <span class="hps">Many of these games</span> <span class="hps">refers</span> <span class="hps">to the</span> <span class="hps">life</span> <span class="hps">of Napoleon</span> <span class="hps">for example</span>, <span class="hps">important battles</span> <span class="hps">analogy</span> <span class="hps">was</span> <span class="hps">appreciated</span> <span class="hps">in England</span> <span class="hps">Wellington.</span> <span class="hps">Board games</span> <span class="hps">were</span> <span class="hps">not only the</span> <span class="hps">gambling</span> <span class="hps">aspect</span> <span class="hps">but</span> <span class="hps">also</span> <span class="hps">science and</span> <span class="hps">ordinary</span> <span class="hps">party game</span> <span class="hps">when</span> <span class="hps">balls</span> <span class="hps">or</span> <span class="hps">evening parties</span>. <span class="hps">Many of these games</span> <span class="hps">now</span> <span class="hps">suitable</span> <span class="hps">to explore</span> <span class="hps">areas of life</span> <span class="hps">that</span> <span class="hps">probably</span> <span class="hps">can be useful</span> <span class="hps">in life</span> <span class="hps">reconstructer</span> <span class="hps">and</span> <span class="hps">more.</span> <span class="hps">Anyway, I</span> <span class="hps">am with</span> <span class="hps">this privilege</span> <span class="hps">use</span>, and probably <span class="hps">tempted to</span> <span class="hps">execute</span> <span class="hps">subsequent copies of the</span> <span class="hps">games.</span></span> </span></div>
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atelierpolonaisehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12221915032674869681noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8315684709486567201.post-56422014742026172192015-11-13T18:47:00.001+01:002015-11-13T18:49:02.310+01:00Robe de madras ecossais, Costume Parisien, 1825. Part I/ Część I <!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9MXysMBDvZQ/VkDXUOp-U4I/AAAAAAAAFJQ/HLlmnTLbZdY/s1600/38d009f4ca71f3fc2709e470a25769c2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9MXysMBDvZQ/VkDXUOp-U4I/AAAAAAAAFJQ/HLlmnTLbZdY/s320/38d009f4ca71f3fc2709e470a25769c2.jpg" width="232" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.pinterest.com/pin/53691420531906905/">La Nouvelle Mode ou Ecossais a Paris, 1815/ Szkoci w Paryżu</a></td></tr>
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Dawno nie pisałam nic
o swoich planach szycia nowych strojów. Dziś więc kilka słów o tym co szyję. Od
czasu kiedy przeczytałam książkę o teatrze gdańskim na początku XIX wieku
doszłam do wniosku, że nadszedł ten czas aby uszyć sobie nową sukienkę tym
razem w szkocką kratę. Materiał był uśmiechem losu bo …. znalazłam go na śmietniku
leżał w kartonie (tym razem segregacja śmieci się przydała).<br />
<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">I have not</span> <span class="hps">wrote</span> <span class="hps">anything about</span> <span class="hps">my plans to</span> <span class="hps">sew</span> <span class="hps">new</span> <span class="hps">costumes.</span> <span class="hps">Today</span> <span class="hps">so</span> <span class="hps">few words</span> <span class="hps">about "Scottish - tartan" project</span><span class=""></span>. <span class="hps">Since I</span> <span class="hps">read the book</span> <span class="hps">about the theater</span> <span class="hps">Gdansk</span> <span class="hps">in the early nineteenth</span> <span class="hps">century,</span> <span class="hps">I came to the conclusion</span> <span class="hps">that</span> <span class="hps">the time has come</span> <span class="hps">to</span> <span class="hps">sew</span> <span class="hps">myself a new</span> <span class="hps">dress</span> <span class="hps">this time in</span> <span class="hps">tartan</span>. <span class="hps">The material was</span> <span class="hps">good fortune</span> <span class="hps">because ...</span>. <span class="hps">I found</span> <span class="hps">it</span> <span class="hps">in the trash</span> <span class="hps">lay</span> <span class="hps">in a box</span><span class=""></span></span>. </div>
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Moda na szycie
ubiorów damskich z tkaniny w kratkę nie jest czymś nowym. Już w XVIII wieku
ceniono sobie ten typ ornamentacji tkaniny, który podkreślał indywidualność
noszącego. Kratka też była noszona przez pospólstwo, szyto z niej fartuszki,
spodnie i kaftany a także koszule. Nie mniej szczególnie kratka szkocka zdobyła
sobie uznanie wśród modniś z lat 1820 – 30 (i dalej).<br />
<br />
<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">Fashion for</span> <span class="hps">sewing</span> <span class="hps">women's</span> <span class="hps">clothing</span> <span class="hps">from fabric</span> <span class="hps">checkered</span> <span class="hps">is not something new</span>. <span class="hps">Already</span> <span class="hps">in the eighteenth</span> <span class="hps">century,</span> <span class="hps">it valued</span> <span class="hps">wearing this</span> <span class="hps">type of</span> <span class="hps">ornamentation of</span> <span class="hps">textiles</span>, which was desired for <span class="hps">individuality</span> <span class="hps">of the wearer.</span> <span class="hps">Checkered textiles</span> <span class="hps">also</span> <span class="hps">was worn by</span> <span class="hps">commoners</span>, <span class="hps">were made of</span> <span class="hps">her</span> <span class="hps">aprons</span>, <span class="hps">pants</span> <span class="hps">and</span> <span class="hps">jackets</span> <span class="hps">and</span> <span class="hps">shirts.</span> <span class="hps">No less</span> <span class="hps">particularly</span> <span class="hps">grating</span> <span class="hps">Scotch</span> <span class="hps">has gained</span> <span class="hps">recognition among</span> <span class="hps">fashionable women and mens</span> <span class="hps">from the years</span> <span class="hps">1820 to 1830</span> <span class="hps atn">(</span><span class="">and beyond)</span><span class="">.</span></span> </div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ja5UkLLAN3Y/VkDTBL0FQJI/AAAAAAAAFIw/TnnkdtgbvM8/s1600/whitakerplaid.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="318" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ja5UkLLAN3Y/VkDTBL0FQJI/AAAAAAAAFIw/TnnkdtgbvM8/s320/whitakerplaid.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.pinterest.com/pin/424112489879339708/">Robe a la francaise, Whitaker Auctions, XVIII wiek/ 18th century</a></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-H0r-EGRvrJo/VkDUpWscKuI/AAAAAAAAFI8/OCZCbVb0opI/s1600/4837839744_f325ca4e40_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-H0r-EGRvrJo/VkDUpWscKuI/AAAAAAAAFI8/OCZCbVb0opI/s320/4837839744_f325ca4e40_o.jpg" width="198" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.pinterest.com/pin/175499716699250422/">Costume Parisien, </a>early 1800</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hCiqY1xImqk/VkDWCkc09hI/AAAAAAAAFJI/rHhAzsmw5jU/s1600/1830.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hCiqY1xImqk/VkDWCkc09hI/AAAAAAAAFJI/rHhAzsmw5jU/s320/1830.jpg" width="181" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/collection/the-collection-online/search/82126?=&imgno=2&tabname=related-objects">1830, Met Museum</a></td></tr>
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Moda na szkocką kratę a dokładniej moda na stroje szyte z tych tkanin rozrosły się do "szkockomanii" w wyniku popularności książek Waltera Scotta. Autor badacz kultury szkockiej opisywał zwyczaje kultury szkockiej oraz jej historię w formie powieści historycznych. Jego powieść <i>Waverley</i> opublikowana została w 1814 roku czyli na rok przed tym jak <i>Nowa Moda - Szkoci w Paryżu</i> ukazała się. Oczywiście wcześniej już także noszono ubiory szyte z kratki ale teraz po wydaniu powieści Scotta nastąpiła istna obsesja na tym punkcie.<br />
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<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">Fashion</span> <span class="hps">for</span> <span class="hps">tartan</span> <span class="hps">and more</span> <span class="hps">fashionable</span> <span class="hps">clothes</span> <span class="hps">sewn</span> <span class="hps">from</span> <span class="hps">the</span> <span class="hps">fabric</span> was to obsesion as a result <span class="hps">popularity</span> <span class="hps">of books</span> <span class="hps">by Walter</span> <span class="hps">Scott.</span> <span class="hps">Author</span> <span class="hps">researcher</span> <span class="hps">described the</span> <span class="hps">habits of</span> <span class="hps">Scottish</span> <span class="hps">culture,</span> <span class="hps">Scottish</span> <span class="hps">culture</span> <span class="hps">and its</span> <span class="hps">history in</span> <span class="hps">the form of</span> <span class="hps">historical fiction</span>. <span class="hps">His novel</span> <i><span class="hps">Waverley</span></i>, was published <span class="hps">in 1814</span> <span class="hps">which is</span> <span class="hps">a year</span> <span class="hps">before the</span> <i><span class="hps">New</span> <span class="hps">Fashion -</span> <span class="hps">Scots</span> <span class="hps">in Paris</span> </i><span class="hps">was released</span>. <span class="hps">Of course,</span> <span class="hps">as</span> <span class="hps">already</span> <span class="hps">previously</span> <span class="hps">worn</span> <span class="hps">clothing</span> <span class="hps">sewn</span> <span class="hps">from</span> <span class="hps">the checkered but</span> <span class="hps">now</span> <span class="hps">after the release</span> <span class="hps">of the novel</span> <span class="hps">Scott</span> <span class="hps">was</span> <span class="hps">a veritable</span> <span class="hps">obsession</span> <span class="hps">at this</span> <span class="hps">point.</span></span><br />
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<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps"> </span></span> <br />
W 1822 roku do Edynburga przybywa król Anglii Jerzy IV wizytę organizował sam Sir Walter Scott a król był zachwycony pobytem i kulturą szkocką. Wizyta ta niewątpliwie była kolejnym impulsem po literaturze do fascynacji Szkocją. Francuskie określenie <i>Ecossais</i> określa także rodzaj tańca popularny na początku XIX wieku.<br />
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<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">In 1822</span> <span class="hps">the</span> <span class="hps">Edinburgh</span> <span class="hps">arrives at</span> <span class="hps">the King</span> <span class="hps">George IV</span> <span class="hps">of England</span> <span class="hps">organized</span> <span class="hps">a visit to</span> <span class="hps">Sir</span> <span class="hps">Walter Scott</span> <span class="hps">himself</span> <span class="hps">and the king</span> <span class="hps">was delighted to</span> <span class="hps">stay</span> <span class="hps">and</span> <span class="hps">Scottish</span> <span class="hps">culture</span>. <span class="hps">This visit</span> <span class="hps">was undoubtedly</span> <span class="hps">another impulse</span> <span class="hps">after</span> <span class="hps">the literature</span> <span class="hps">fascination with</span> <span class="hps">Scotland</span>. <span class="hps">The French</span> <span class="hps">term</span> <i><span class="hps">Ecossais</span></i> <span class="hps">also determines the</span> <span class="hps">kind of dance</span> <span class="hps">popular</span> <span class="hps">in the early nineteenth</span> <span class="hps">century.</span></span> </div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-D50xMUC0k-E/VkDdXLUVlrI/AAAAAAAAFJg/VB6kZS3_Ido/s1600/800px-George_IV_in_kilt%252C_by_Wilkie.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-D50xMUC0k-E/VkDdXLUVlrI/AAAAAAAAFJg/VB6kZS3_Ido/s320/800px-George_IV_in_kilt%252C_by_Wilkie.jpg" width="201" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/David_Wilkie_%28artist%29#/media/File:George_IV_in_kilt,_by_Wilkie.jpg">Sir D. Wilkie, George IV in kilt, 1829, Portret króla Jerzego IV z 1829 ale nawiązujący do jego szkockiej wizyty, </a></td></tr>
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Wracając do ubiorów noszono nie tylko suknie ale także, kapelusze, turbany, szale, torebki (także te haftowane krzyżykiem czy ściegiem berlińskim) wszystkie dekorowane szkocką kratką, dekorowano nimi nawet buty i wachlarze. Panowie także nosili kratkę traktując ją też jako podszewkę do płaszczy.<br />
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<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">Returning to the</span> <span class="hps">clothing</span> <span class="hps">worn</span> <span class="hps">not</span> <span class="hps">only</span> <span class="hps">dresses</span> <span class="hps">but</span> <span class="hps">also</span> <span class="hps">hats,</span> <span class="hps">turbans</span>, scarves, handbags <span class="hps">(including those</span> <span class="hps">embroidered</span> <span class="hps">cross</span> <span class="hps">stitch</span> <span class="hps">or</span> <span class="hps">Berlin</span>), all <span class="hps">decorated with</span> <span class="hps">tartan</span>, <span class="hps">decorated with</span> <span class="hps">them</span> <span class="hps">even</span> <span class="hps">shoes and</span> <span class="hps">fans</span>. <span class="hps">Men</span> <span class="hps">also</span> <span class="hps">wore</span> <span class="hps">a</span> <span class="hps">checkered</span> <span class="hps">treating it</span> <span class="hps">as a</span> <span class="hps">lining</span> <span class="hps">for</span> <span class="hps">coats.</span></span><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VRKXOMBWvvI/VkYA5rzkhbI/AAAAAAAAFKU/O3A-yHDhKmY/s1600/1826jddedm44.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VRKXOMBWvvI/VkYA5rzkhbI/AAAAAAAAFKU/O3A-yHDhKmY/s320/1826jddedm44.JPG" width="189" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.kajani.pl/images/ryciny/1826jddedm44.JPG">Costume Parisien, 1826</a></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-komcEWqGzMk/VkYBR2KKyfI/AAAAAAAAFKc/9ieg5OXgsJ0/s1600/Mens_Wear_17901829_Plate_008.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-komcEWqGzMk/VkYBR2KKyfI/AAAAAAAAFKc/9ieg5OXgsJ0/s320/Mens_Wear_17901829_Plate_008.jpg" width="236" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://libmma.contentdm.oclc.org/cdm/singleitem/collection/p15324coll12/id/2445/rec/8">Costume Parisien, 1826, Redingote d'alpaga doublee en madras et garnie de boutons de nacre ...</a></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Otd07T1pSWY/VkDfUaFZAUI/AAAAAAAAFJs/3StzCYtPm3Q/s1600/2008bu3454_tartan_turban.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="318" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Otd07T1pSWY/VkDfUaFZAUI/AAAAAAAAFJs/3StzCYtPm3Q/s320/2008bu3454_tartan_turban.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.vam.ac.uk/users/node/17310">Turban, 1820 - 1830, V & A Museum, London</a></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1YIDy4qKp4g/VkX5AK-tStI/AAAAAAAAFJ8/0Dn-YQgYBZY/s1600/1826jddedm35.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1YIDy4qKp4g/VkX5AK-tStI/AAAAAAAAFJ8/0Dn-YQgYBZY/s320/1826jddedm35.JPG" width="184" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.kajani.pl/images/ryciny/1826jddedm35.JPG">Costume Parisien, 1826</a></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4Re119lZAOc/VkYAJ4FrbQI/AAAAAAAAFKQ/6pdhA1pKmWk/s1600/no%2B2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4Re119lZAOc/VkYAJ4FrbQI/AAAAAAAAFKQ/6pdhA1pKmWk/s320/no%2B2.jpg" width="207" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://ladiesinfashion.blogspot.it/2013/11/incroyables-et-merveilleuses-de-1814.html">G. Gatine,<i> Incroyables et Merveilleuses de 1814 </i></a></td></tr>
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Kiedy
znalazłam materiał nie miałam jeszcze planu co uszyć dopiero lektura jakoś skłoniła mnie
do znalezienia odpowiedniego wzoru. W swoich archiwach znalazłam zaś model z
1825 roku sukienki w szkocką kratę noszoną z canezou czyli białą bluzka noszona
na sukienkę – wygląda ona jakby była to spódnica z bluzką ale to mylne
wrażenie. Ten komplet dość często pojawiał się w żurnalach mody. Model pochodzi z <i>Costume Parisien, </i>datowany 1825 i został opisany następująco: <span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps"><i>Chapeau de bois dit paille de riz, Robe de madras ecossais, Canezou d'organdi garni de ruches de tulle. </i>(Kapelusz ze słomki "de riz", Suknia w szkocką kratę, kanezou z organdyny przybrane riuszkami z tiulu). Tkanina typu <i>madras </i>była delikatną, lekką tkaniną bawełnianą, produkowaną w Madrasie w Indiach dziś znanym jako Chennai. Tkanina<i> <a href="http://ciad.org.uk/2012/04/11/madras/">Madras</a></i><a href="http://ciad.org.uk/2012/04/11/madras/"> </a>zazwyczaj była produkowana w kratkę. Szyto z niej ubiory na wiosnę i lato. Obecnie w Polsce nie jest dostępna. </span></span><br />
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<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">When I found</span> <span class="hps">the material</span>, I did not <span class="hps">plan</span> <span class="hps">what</span> <span class="hps">to sew</span> <span class="hps">until</span> <span class="hps">reading</span> <span class="hps">somehow</span> <span class="hps">led me</span> <span class="hps">to finding the pattern</span><span class="hps">.</span> <span class="hps">In</span> <span class="hps">my archives</span>, I found <span class="hps">the</span> <span class="hps">model</span> <span class="hps">from 1825</span> <span class="hps">dresses in</span> <span class="hps">tartan</span> <span class="hps">worn</span> <span class="hps">with</span> <span class="hps">a white</span> <span class="hps">blouse</span> <span class="hps">canezou</span> <span class="hps">that is</span> <span class="hps">worn on</span> <span class="hps">the dress</span> <span class="hps">-</span> <span class="hps">it looks</span> <span class="hps">as if</span> <span class="hps">it was a</span> <span class="hps">skirt</span> <span class="hps">with</span> <span class="hps">a blouse</span> <span class="hps">but it is</span> <span class="hps">a false impression</span>. <span class="hps">This set</span> <span class="hps">quite often</span> <span class="hps">appeared in</span> <span class="hps">journals</span> <span class="hps">of fashion. It was the model from <i>Costume Parisien</i> from 1825 and described as: <i>Chapeau de bois dit paille de riz, Robe de madras ecossais, Canezou d'organdi garni de ruches de tulle. </i></span></span><span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">Type</span> <i><span class="hps">madras</span></i> <span class="hps">fabric</span> <span class="hps">was</span> <span class="hps">soft</span>, <span class="hps">soft</span> <span class="hps">cotton fabric</span>, <span class="hps">produced</span> <span class="hps">in Madras</span> <span class="hps">in India</span> <span class="hps">today</span> <span class="hps">known as</span> <span class="hps">Chennai.</span> <a href="http://ciad.org.uk/2012/04/11/madras/"><i><span class="hps">Madras</span></i></a> <span class="hps">fabric</span> <span class="hps">usually</span> <span class="hps">was produced</span> <span class="hps">in the</span> <span class="hps">box.</span> <span class="hps">They were sewn</span> <span class="hps">from</span> <span class="hps">her</span> <span class="hps">clothes for</span> <span class="hps">spring and summer.</span></span> <br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mQ5ilyntPGo/VkYEdkmlobI/AAAAAAAAFKw/G3i5PRCnLx4/s1600/costumesparisienes-292_2349.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mQ5ilyntPGo/VkYEdkmlobI/AAAAAAAAFKw/G3i5PRCnLx4/s320/costumesparisienes-292_2349.jpg" width="188" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mój model, my project, Costume Parisien, 1825,<i> (...) Robe de madras ecossais, canezou d'organdi garni de ruches de tulle.</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BpjgNUF5knQ/VkYD5ujeC8I/AAAAAAAAFKo/XLl2YL7Yp3A/s1600/055fash.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BpjgNUF5knQ/VkYD5ujeC8I/AAAAAAAAFKo/XLl2YL7Yp3A/s320/055fash.jpg" width="189" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.pinterest.com/pin/528469337495578045/">Costume Parisien, 1826</a></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dbtf-cMhWOM/VkYF8LaIqYI/AAAAAAAAFK8/GQJg6N8PJqg/s1600/26602624_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dbtf-cMhWOM/VkYF8LaIqYI/AAAAAAAAFK8/GQJg6N8PJqg/s320/26602624_o.jpg" width="202" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Costume Parisien, 1826</td></tr>
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Cały ubiór składa się z sukni z krótkimi rękawami i białej bluzki <i>canezou</i> z długimi rękawami bogato zdobioną falbankami i riuszkami <i>Canezou</i> utrzymuje się za pomocą szerokiego paska z klamrą. Na dzień dzisiejszy szyje tylko suknię a całą resztę będę szyć w miarę jak znajdę odpowiedni materiał.<br />
W tej chwili mam gotowy stanik i spódnicę i jestem w trakcie szycia rękawów.<br />
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</xml><![endif]-->Projekt sukni
powstaje więc etapami, wiedziałam jak ma wyglądać spódnica chciałam aby była tak
samo uszyta czyli z trzema rzędami falbany ze skosu, ale niestety brak materiału
zmuszał mnie do bardziej kreatywnego podejścia. W końcu powstała dekoracja
spódnicy z jednego rzędu falbany ze skosu ozdobionej dodatkowo paspólką
(piping) i moją ulubioną dekoracją w formie <i>van Dycke</i>. Do tej dekoracji
wykorzystałam resztki zielonej jedwabnej tafty i w ten sposób powstaje suknia z
resztek materiałów.<br />
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
Stanik uszyłam ze skosu z dwóch części i ma po jednej zaszewce po każdej ze stron. Tył z kolei uszyty został z dwóch części przedzielony paspólką.<br />
<br />
<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span title="Cały ubiór składa się z sukni z krótkim rękawem i białej bluzki canezou z długimi rękawami bogato zdobioną falbankami i riuszkami Canezou utrzymuje się za pomocą szerokiego paska z klamrą.">The
whole dress consists of a dress with short sleeves and a white blouse
with long sleeves canezou richly decorated with frills -
canezou maintained by a wide belt with a buckle. </span><span title="Na dzień dzisiejszy szyje tylko suknię a całą resztę będę szyć w miarę jak znajdę odpowiedni materiał.
">At present, only sews a dress and all the rest I'll sew as we find appropriate material.</span></span><br />
<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span title="Na dzień dzisiejszy szyje tylko suknię a całą resztę będę szyć w miarę jak znajdę odpowiedni materiał.
"><br /></span><span title="W tej chwili mam gotowy stanik i spódnicę i jestem w trakcie szycia rękawów.
">At the moment I finished bodice and skirt and am in the process of sewing sleeves.</span><span title="Projekt sukni powstaje więc etapami, wiedziałam jak ma wyglądać spódnica chciałam aby była tak samo uszyta czyli z trzema rzędami falbany ze skosu, ale niestety brak materiału zmuszał mnie do bardziej kreatywnego podejścia.">The
project created a dress so in stages, I knew how to look like a skirt I
wanted to be just sewn or three rows of ruffles and bias, but
unfortunately the lack of material forced me into a more creative
approach. </span><span title="W końcu powstała dekoracja spódnicy z jednego rzędu falbany ze skosu ozdobionej dodatkowo paspólką (piping) i moją ulubioną dekoracją w formie van Dycke.">In
the end, skirt decoration was created with one row of ruffles and bias
additionally decorated with paspólką (piping) and my favorite van Dyck decoration. </span><span title="Do tej dekoracji wykorzystałam resztki zielonej jedwabnej tafty iw ten sposób powstaje suknia z resztek materiałów.
">To this decoration I used leftover green silk taffeta and thus formed from the remnants of dress materials.</span><span title="Stanik uszyłam ze skosu z dwóch części i ma po jednej zaszewce po każdej ze stron.">Bodice front sewn from a slant of two parts. </span><span title="Tył z kolei uszyty został z dwóch części przedzielony paspólką.">Back in turn sewn together from two parts with piping decoration.</span></span> </div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1ei4nte-6i0/VkYTRzolgsI/AAAAAAAAFLM/GppnzZlLPJI/s1600/IMG_2840.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1ei4nte-6i0/VkYTRzolgsI/AAAAAAAAFLM/GppnzZlLPJI/s320/IMG_2840.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Front</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-07LL4pjNalE/VkYTc4In-tI/AAAAAAAAFLU/vfVRMcbMF88/s1600/IMG_2839.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-07LL4pjNalE/VkYTc4In-tI/AAAAAAAAFLU/vfVRMcbMF88/s320/IMG_2839.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Back</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-luATCNvVpNE/VkYVAJMG5dI/AAAAAAAAFLo/B71vlK9KTK4/s1600/IMG_2446.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-luATCNvVpNE/VkYVAJMG5dI/AAAAAAAAFLo/B71vlK9KTK4/s320/IMG_2446.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bodice in processing</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-es62gWTyipo/VkYVdslioQI/AAAAAAAAFL8/rlRal55IOHE/s1600/IMG_2324.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-es62gWTyipo/VkYVdslioQI/AAAAAAAAFL8/rlRal55IOHE/s320/IMG_2324.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Back bodice with piping, tył przedzielony paspólką</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Stanik podszyty został zwykłą bawełną.<br />
<span class="short_text" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">The bodice</span> <span class="hps">was</span> <span class="hps">lined with</span> <span class="hps">simple</span> <span class="hps">cotton.</span></span> <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oY2gt3RnFyA/VkYWv2tgN_I/AAAAAAAAFME/XCQaMX7cF-s/s1600/IMG_2533.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oY2gt3RnFyA/VkYWv2tgN_I/AAAAAAAAFME/XCQaMX7cF-s/s320/IMG_2533.jpg" width="260" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inside construction, </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KV1WGKQ9B1Q/VkYXpXbTlcI/AAAAAAAAFMM/nOtgMtE1QPM/s1600/IMG_2329.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KV1WGKQ9B1Q/VkYXpXbTlcI/AAAAAAAAFMM/nOtgMtE1QPM/s320/IMG_2329.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Back inside with lining construction</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5-7JXLERSo4/VkYYh4KTHBI/AAAAAAAAFMU/C_OBZ_jV4BQ/s1600/IMG_2467.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5-7JXLERSo4/VkYYh4KTHBI/AAAAAAAAFMU/C_OBZ_jV4BQ/s320/IMG_2467.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Back bodice</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lbn-BVVbZ4k/VkYhDRHJltI/AAAAAAAAFMk/p8ZCLdbVBV0/s1600/IMG_2535.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lbn-BVVbZ4k/VkYhDRHJltI/AAAAAAAAFMk/p8ZCLdbVBV0/s320/IMG_2535.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mock up bodice with not sewing skirt. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
W następnym poście o tym jak szyłam i dekorowałam spódnicę i jak powstawały rękawy.<br />
<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">Next time about </span><span class="">my skirt dress and the sleeves. </span></span><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
</div>
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<br /></div>
atelierpolonaisehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12221915032674869681noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8315684709486567201.post-18808883345425573042015-10-30T17:30:00.001+01:002015-10-30T17:30:45.833+01:00Fraktur, co to jest i o skarbach Biblioteki Elbląskiej. What is Fraktur ? <div style="text-align: center;">
Jakiś czas temu moja uwagę zwrócił anons wystawy <i>A Colorful Folk</i> organizowanej przez <a href="http://www.winterthurstore.com/product/424720/A-Colorful-Folk%3A-Pennsylvania-Germans-and-the-Art-of-Everyday-Life.html">Muzeum Winthertur.</a> Wystawa dotyczy specyficznego stylu rysowania zbliżonego do twórczości ludowej a niektórym zapewne skojarzy się z kiczem. Jednak mnie one zachwyciły przede wszystkim mnogością kolorów, fantazyjnymi kompozycjami i ciekawymi motywami jakie stosowali ówcześni artyści.<br />
<br />
<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">Some time</span> <span class="hps">ago, my</span> <span class="hps">attention was drawn</span> <span class="hps">notice</span> <span class="hps">A</span> <span class="hps">Colorful</span> <span class="hps">Folk</span> <span class="hps">exhibition</span> <span class="hps">organized</span> <span class="hps">by the Museum</span> <span class="hps">Winthertur</span>. <span class="hps">The exhibition</span> <span class="hps">refers to</span> <span class="hps">a specific style of</span> <span class="hps">drawing</span> <span class="hps">close to</span> <span class="hps">folk art</span> <span class="hps">and some</span> <span class="hps">probably</span> <span class="hps">associate</span> <span class="hps">with</span> <span class="hps">kitsch.</span> <span class="hps">However,</span> <span class="hps">they</span> <span class="hps">impressed</span> <span class="hps">me</span> <span class="hps">most of all</span> <span class="hps">a multitude</span> <span class="hps">of colors,</span> <span class="hps">imaginative</span> <span class="hps">compositions</span> <span class="hps">and</span> <span class="hps">great designs,</span> <span class="hps">they were using</span> <span class="hps">the then</span> <span class="hps">artists</span><span class="">.</span></span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HQeDwx_jve4/VjOHc7SRCWI/AAAAAAAAFGc/dGhKmn8-ZbA/s1600/a_colorful_folk_cover.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HQeDwx_jve4/VjOHc7SRCWI/AAAAAAAAFGc/dGhKmn8-ZbA/s320/a_colorful_folk_cover.jpg" width="290" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.winterthurstore.com/product/424720/A-Colorful-Folk%3A-Pennsylvania-Germans-and-the-Art-of-Everyday-Life.html">Katalog wystawy, A catalog from exhibition, Winthertur Museum</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
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Zjawisko to nazwano
<i>fraktur</i>, co ma oznaczać sztukę ludową osiedleńców w Ameryce z kręgu kultury
niemieckojęzycznej.<i> Fraktur</i> znane jest też pod nazwą <i>Pennsylwania German</i> lub
<i>Pennsylwania Dutch</i>. Pod nazwą Fraktur kryje się oczywiście<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>jeden ze sposobów kaligrafowania liter znany jeszcze w
okresie renesansu jak i w czasach baroku. W polskim języku nazywany jest jako <i>fraktura</i> i
należy do ręcznego pisma <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>alfabetu łacińskiego.
Fraktura jednak z czasem najbardziej przyjęła się w kręgu kultury niemieckiej i
uważana jest za styl kaligrafii gotyku (niemieckiego).<br />
<br />
<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">This phenomenon is</span> <span class="hps">called</span> <i><span class="hps">Fraktur</span></i>, which <span class="hps">is meant to</span> <span class="hps">folk art</span> <span class="hps">settlers</span> <span class="hps">in America with</span> <span class="hps">the culture of</span> <span class="hps">German-speaking</span>. <span class="hps">Fraktur</span> <span class="hps">is also known</span> <span class="hps">as</span> <i><span class="hps">Pennsylvania</span> <span class="hps">German</span></i> <span class="hps">or <i>Pennsylvania</i></span><i> <span class="hps">Dutch</span></i>. <span class="hps">Under the name</span> <i><span class="hps">Fraktur</span></i> <span class="hps">lies</span>, of course, <span class="hps">one way of</span> <span class="hps">calligraphy</span> <span class="hps">letters</span> <span class="hps">known</span> <span class="hps">yet</span> <span class="hps">in the Renaissance</span> <span class="hps">and in</span> <span class="hps">the Baroque era</span>. <span class="hps">The</span> <span class="hps">Polish</span> <span class="hps">language</span> <span class="hps">is referred to</span> <span class="hps">as</span> <i><span class="hps">fraktura</span></i> <span class="hps">and belongs to</span> <span class="hps">the Latin alphabet</span> <span class="hps">handwriting</span>. <i><span class="hps">Fraktura</span></i> <span class="hps">but over time</span> <span class="hps">most</span> <span class="hps">it adopted</span> <span class="hps">in the circle</span> <span class="hps">of German culture</span> <span class="hps">and is considered the</span> <span class="hps">Gothic</span> <span class="hps">style</span> <span class="hps">calligraphy</span> <span class="hps atn">(</span><span class="">German</span><span class="">)</span><span class="">.</span></span> </div>
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<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pUr6CGdGhEI/VjOLEc1bVkI/AAAAAAAAFGo/lNhlPlDIQyo/s1600/frk00410.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pUr6CGdGhEI/VjOLEc1bVkI/AAAAAAAAFGo/lNhlPlDIQyo/s320/frk00410.jpg" width="195" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://libwww.freelibrary.org/fraktur/detail.cfm?searchKey=0713516609&ItemID=frk00410">Charakterystyczna kaligrafia stylu fraktury, Fraktur alphabet, 1825 - 1850, Free Library of Philadelphia</a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"></span></span> </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DXxEPP3MhFo/VjOM_dnJ16I/AAAAAAAAFG0/G5XlKLdZKxM/s1600/frk00513.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DXxEPP3MhFo/VjOM_dnJ16I/AAAAAAAAFG0/G5XlKLdZKxM/s320/frk00513.jpg" width="261" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://libwww.freelibrary.org/fraktur/detail.cfm?searchKey=0713516609&ItemID=frk00513">Vorschrift, ćwiczenie kaligraficzne, writing exercise, 1800, Free Library of Philadelphia</a></td></tr>
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Emigrantów tych
najwięcej przybywało do Ameryki w latach 1775 – 1790, pod koniec XVIII wieku
tworzyli już dużą społeczność, posługiwali się także językiem niemieckim obok
angielskiego. Ich miejscem osiedlenia stała się Pensylwania. Najwięcej
emigrantów przybywało do Ameryki z Palatynatu byli to przede wszystkim przedstawiciele
wyznań religijnych nie akceptowanych w księstwach niemieckich, tym duży odłam
stanowiły sekty religijne - <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Mennonici i Anabaptyści.
Część Mennonitów odnalazła się na Żuławach a część popłynęła za lepszym życiem
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<br />
<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">Most</span> <span class="hps">of these</span> <span class="hps">emigrants</span> <span class="hps">coming</span> <span class="hps">to America</span> <span class="hps">in the years</span> <span class="hps">1775 - 1790</span><span>,</span> <span class="hps">the late eighteenth century</span> <span class="hps">already</span> <span class="hps">created</span> <span class="hps">a large community</span><span>,</span> <span class="hps">also</span> <span class="hps">used the</span> <span class="hps">German language</span> <span class="hps">alongside English</span><span>.</span> <span class="hps">Their</span> <span class="hps">place</span> <span class="hps">of settlement</span> <span class="hps">became</span> <span class="hps">Pennsylvania.</span> <span class="hps">Most</span> <span class="hps">immigrants</span> <span class="hps">to come to</span> <span class="hps">America</span> <span class="hps">from the Palatinate</span> <span class="hps">were</span> <span class="hps">mainly</span> <span class="hps">representatives of</span> <span class="hps">religious denominations</span> <span class="hps">not</span> <span class="hps">accepted</span> <span class="hps">in</span> <span class="hps">the German</span> <span class="hps">principalities</span><span>,</span> <span class="hps">including a large</span> <span class="hps">faction</span> <span class="hps">were</span> <span class="hps">religious sects</span> <span class="hps">-</span> <span class="hps">Mennonites</span> <span class="hps">and</span> <span class="hps">Anabaptists</span><span>.</span> <span class="hps">Part of the</span> <span class="hps">Mennonites</span> <span class="hps">found</span> <span class="hps">on</span> <span class="hps">Żuławy</span> (now Poland) <span class="hps">and some</span> <span class="hps">swam</span> <span class="hps">for a better life</span> <span class="hps">and freedom</span> <span class="hps">to America.</span> <span class="hps">Quite a few</span> <span class="hps">settlers</span> <span class="hps">also</span> <span class="hps">came</span> <span class="hps">from Silesia</span><span>, Moravia</span> <span class="hps">and Bohemia.</span></span><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4Ir1pTpbyXQ/VjOOrzbmFyI/AAAAAAAAFHA/xnkUYavYr_M/s1600/frk00267.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4Ir1pTpbyXQ/VjOOrzbmFyI/AAAAAAAAFHA/xnkUYavYr_M/s320/frk00267.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="http://libwww.freelibrary.org/fraktur/detail.cfm?searchKey=8454704774&ItemID=frk00267">Geburts und Taufschein, świadectwo narodzin i chrztu, Free Library of Philadelphia</a></span><br />
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Rysunki w typie
fraktur ozdabiały ważne dokumenty jak: świadectwa narodzin i chrztu tzw: <i>Taufscheine,
Vorschriften</i><span style="mso-bidi-font-style: italic;"> czyli wzory do
pisania (kaligrafii), dokumenty dotyczące ślubów, a także pisane błogosławieństwa
dla danego domostwa. Fraktur używano do nauki rysowania, często pojawiały się także
jako wpisy w sztambuchach, robiono zakładki do książek, kartki świąteczne
związane z Nowym Rokiem, czy po prostu jako zwykłe rysunki dziecięce i nie
tylko. Frakturą dekorowano także listy w tym bardzo modne było w XIX wieku ozdabianie
a ten sposób walentynek. W ten sposób też zapisywano ważne pieśni dla
społeczności w tym hymny kościelne. </span><br />
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<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">Drawings</span> <span class="hps">in the type</span> <i><span class="hps">Fraktur</span></i> <span class="hps">were decorated</span> <span class="hps">important documents</span> <span class="hps">like</span> <span class="hps">birth</span> <span class="hps">certificates</span> <span class="hps">and</span> <span class="hps">baptismal</span> <span class="hps">called</span><span>:</span> <i><span class="hps">Taufscheine</span><span>,</span></i> <i><span class="hps">Vorschriften</span></i> <span class="hps">or</span> <span class="hps">formulas</span> <span class="hps">for writing</span> <span class="hps atn">(</span><span>calligraphy</span><span>)</span><span>,</span> <span class="hps">documents relating to</span> <span class="hps">marriage</span><span>, as well as</span> <span class="hps">written</span> <span class="hps">blessing</span> <span class="hps">for the</span> <span class="hps">house.</span> <span class="hps">Fraktur</span> <span class="hps">was used for</span> <span class="hps">learning how to draw</span><span>,</span> <span class="hps">often</span> <span class="hps">popping up</span> <span class="hps">as well</span> <span class="hps">as entries</span> <span class="hps">in</span> <span class="hps">stammbuch</span><span>,</span> <span class="hps">were made</span> <span class="hps">bookmarks</span><span>, Christmas cards</span> <span class="hps">associated</span> <span class="hps">with the New Year</span><span>,</span> <span class="hps">or simply as</span> <span class="hps">ordinary</span> <span class="hps">children's drawings</span><span>, and more.</span> <span class="hps">Fraktur</span> <span class="hps">is also</span> <span class="hps">decorated with</span> <span class="hps">the list of that</span> <span class="hps">was</span> <span class="hps">very fashionable</span> <span class="hps">in the nineteenth century</span> <span class="hps">and</span> <span class="hps">thus</span> <span class="hps">decorating</span> <span class="hps">Valentine's Day</span><span>.</span> <span class="hps">In this way,</span> <span class="hps">also</span> <span class="hps">recorded</span> <span class="hps">songs</span> <span class="hps">important</span> <span class="hps">for the community</span> <span class="hps">including</span> <span class="hps">hymns</span><span>.</span></span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WQt0-ELd-80/VjOPojeT0DI/AAAAAAAAFHI/dUGsv3OR7Qg/s1600/frk00681.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="267" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WQt0-ELd-80/VjOPojeT0DI/AAAAAAAAFHI/dUGsv3OR7Qg/s320/frk00681.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://libwww.freelibrary.org/fraktur/detail.cfm?searchKey=8454704774&ItemID=frk00681">Geburts und Taufschein, świadectwo narodzin i chrztu, 1773, Free Library of Philadelphia</a></td></tr>
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<span style="mso-bidi-font-style: italic;">Najwcześniejsze fraktury były wykonywane
ręcznie, za pomocą tuszu, pióra i farb akwarelowych. Z czasem kiedy druk stał
się bardziej popularny wraz z rozwojem przemysłowym, dokumenty zaczęto drukować
a resztę wykonywał artysta. Najczęstszymi motywami w tym stylu były motywy roślinne
(tulipan) tworzące szlaczki wokół dokumentów, dekorowano także motywami zwierzęcymi
– tutaj najbardziej popularne były ptaki, innymi najbardziej znanymi motywami
były serca gdzie często w środku wpisywano odpowiedni tekst. Pojawiały się także
postacie męskie i kobiece. </span></div>
<br />
<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">The earliest</span> <i><span class="hps">fraktur</span> </i><span class="hps">were made</span> <span class="hps">by hand, using</span> <span class="hps">ink</span> <span class="hps">pen and</span> <span class="hps">watercolor paints</span><span>.</span> <span class="hps">In time,</span> <span class="hps">when</span> <span class="hps">printing</span> <span class="hps">became more popular</span> <span class="hps">with the development of</span> <span class="hps">industrial</span><span>, documents</span> <span class="hps">began to be</span> <span class="hps">printed</span> <span class="hps">and</span> <span class="hps">the rest of the</span> <span class="hps">performing</span> <span class="hps">artist</span><span>.</span> <span class="hps">The most common</span> <span class="hps">motifs</span> <span class="hps">in this style</span> <span class="hps">have been</span> <span class="hps atn">Floral (</span><span>tulip</span><span>) </span><span class="hps"></span> <span class="hps">around the</span> <span class="hps">documents</span><span>,</span> <span class="hps">also</span> <span class="hps">decorated with</span> <span class="hps">animal motifs</span> <span class="hps">-</span> <span class="hps">here</span> <span class="hps">the most</span> <span class="hps">popular were</span> <span class="hps">birds,</span> <span class="hps">including</span> <span class="hps">the most famous</span> <span class="hps">motifs</span> <span class="hps">were</span> <span class="hps">the heart</span> <span class="hps">where it often</span> <span class="hps">inscribed</span> <span class="hps">in the middle of</span> <span class="hps">the corresponding text</span><span>.</span> <span class="hps">There were</span> <span class="hps">also</span> <span class="hps">figures of</span> <span class="hps">male and female</span><span class="">.</span></span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dfH0__PmHtY/VjOQhGXAt5I/AAAAAAAAFHQ/TpMKV64HUSY/s1600/frk01067.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dfH0__PmHtY/VjOQhGXAt5I/AAAAAAAAFHQ/TpMKV64HUSY/s320/frk01067.jpg" width="256" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://libwww.freelibrary.org/fraktur/detail.cfm?searchKey=8454704774&ItemID=frk01067">Rysunek dla Catharine McKnight, Drawing for Catharine McKnight, 1825, Free Library of Philadelphia</a></td></tr>
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<![endif]--><span style="mso-bidi-font-style: italic;">Kompozycje fraktur nie miały granic wszystko
zależało od twórcy ale każda praca ma przemyślaną ideę i nie widać z niej
chaosu. Tworzenie fraktury wymagało cierpliwości i pomysłowości zwłaszcza kiedy
były zajęciem dla dzieci. </span><br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jfOkJSV35iU/VjOTE2C3f3I/AAAAAAAAFHc/q2VtuoyV_XQ/s1600/frk00126.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="295" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jfOkJSV35iU/VjOTE2C3f3I/AAAAAAAAFHc/q2VtuoyV_XQ/s320/frk00126.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://libwww.freelibrary.org/fraktur/detail.cfm?searchKey=3124194850&ItemID=frk00126">Liebesbrief, list miłosny, love letter, 1769, Free Library of Philadelphia</a></td></tr>
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<span style="mso-bidi-font-style: italic;">I teraz coś co wiąże fraktur z terenami
okolic Gdańska a dokładniej Elbląga. W zbiorach Biblioteki Elbląskiej znajduje się
kolekcja zeszytów uczniów dawnego Gimnazjum Elbląskiego. Zeszyty te zawierają
także rysunki uczniów wykonywane w tej technice. Są to przede wszystkim kolorowane
szlaczki, wzory liter, urocze tabliczki mnożenia, motywy serduszek i
wpisywanych weń teksty, motywy roślinne, a także postać żołnierza (mam
skojarzenia z dziadkiem do orzechów). </span><br />
<br />
<span style="mso-bidi-font-style: italic;"><span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">And</span> <span class="hps">now for something</span> <span class="hps">which is associated</span> <span class="hps">with the areas</span> <span class="hps">surrounding</span> <i><span class="hps">Fraktur</span></i> <span class="hps">in </span><span class="hps"></span> <span class="hps">Elblag</span> (old Elbing) <span class="hps">in more detail</span><span>.</span> <span class="hps">In the collections of</span> <span class="hps">the<a href="http://www.bibliotekaelblaska.pl/"> Library</a></span><a href="http://www.bibliotekaelblaska.pl/"> <span class="hps">of Elbag</span></a> <span class="hps">is a</span> <span class="hps">collection</span> <span class="hps">of notebooks</span> <span class="hps">former</span> <span class="hps">Middle School</span> <span class="hps">students</span> <span class="hps">Elblag</span><span>.</span> <span class="hps">These</span> <span class="hps">notebooks</span> <span class="hps">also contain</span> <span class="hps">drawings</span> <span class="hps">of pupils</span> <span class="hps">performed</span> <span class="hps">in this technique</span><span>.</span> <span class="hps">These are mainly</span> <span class="hps">colored</span><span> patterns</span> <span class="hps">of letters</span><span>, charming</span> <span class="hps">multiplication tables</span><span>,</span> <span class="hps">motifs</span> <span class="hps">hearts</span> <span class="hps">into it</span> <span class="hps">and</span> <span class="hps">typed</span> <span class="hps">texts</span><span>,</span> <span class="hps">floral motifs</span><span>,</span> <span class="hps">and the figure of</span> <span class="hps">a soldier</span> <span class="hps">(seems like as Nutcracker)</span><span class="hps"></span><span class="hps"></span><span></span><span class="">. </span></span></span><span style="mso-bidi-font-style: italic;"><span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class=""><span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">Unfortunately,</span> <span class="hps">the library</span> <span class="hps">is available only</span> <span class="hps">in Polish</span> <span class="hps">but</span> <span class="hps">also</span> <span class="hps">makes its collections you can see via <a href="http://dlibra.bibliotekaelblaska.pl/dlibra?action=ChangeLanguageAction&language=en">internet. (this collection has a English version)</a></span><span class="hps atn"></span></span></span></span> </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://pracownia-konserwacji.blogspot.com/2013/10/zeszyty-uczniow-gimnazjum-elblaskiego.html#more">Zeszyty uczniów z Gimnazjum w Elblągu, Pupil notebook in the fraktur style, 1795, Biblioteka Elbląska</a></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://pracownia-konserwacji.blogspot.com/2013/10/zeszyty-uczniow-gimnazjum-elblaskiego.html#more">Zeszyt ucznia, pupil notebook, 1810, Biblioteka Elbląska</a></td></tr>
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<![endif]--><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="line-height: 115%;">Gdzie jeszcze można odszukać styl fraktury? Otóż
motywy zdobnicze zwłaszcza roślinne pojawiały się także na meblach, co zobaczyć
można w zbiorach Muzeum Szczecińskiego. Oglądając fraktury amerykańskie mam też na uwadze stare domy na Żuławach, które dekorowane były podobnymi motywami roślinnymi. Te "frakturowskie" motywy roślinne przypominają mi także hafty kaszubskie, które kolorystycznie jednak reprezentują barwy monochromatyczne. </span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="mso-bidi-font-style: italic;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="line-height: 115%;">Fraktura także stała się inspiracją dla motywów hafciarskich ale o tym napiszę następnym razem. </span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="mso-bidi-font-style: italic;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="line-height: 115%;"> </span></span></span> </span></div>
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<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">Where else can you</span> <span class="hps">find a</span> <span class="hps">style</span> <span class="hps">invoice</span><span>?</span> <span class="hps">Well,</span> <span class="hps">especially</span> <span class="hps">plant</span> <span class="hps">ornamental motifs</span> <span class="hps">also</span> <span class="hps">appear</span> <span class="hps">on the furniture</span><span>, which</span> <span class="hps">can be seen in</span> <span class="hps">the collections of</span> <span class="hps">the Museum</span> <span class="hps">of Szczecin.</span> <span class="hps">Watching</span> <i><span class="hps">fraktur</span></i> <span class="hps">I also have</span> <span class="hps">in mind the</span> <span class="hps">old houses</span> <span class="hps">in Żuławy</span><span>,</span> <span class="hps">which</span> <span class="hps">were</span> <span class="hps">decorated with</span> <span class="hps">similar</span> <span class="hps">motifs.</span> <span class="hps atn">These </span><span>motives mostly</span> <span class="hps">floral</span> <span class="hps">remind me</span> <span class="hps">Kashubian</span> <span class="hps">embroidery</span><span>,</span> <span class="hps">which</span> <span class="hps">represent the</span> <span class="hps">color</span> <span class="hps">but</span> <span class="hps">the color</span> <span class="hps">monochrome</span><span>.</span><br /> <i><span class="hps">Fraktur</span></i> <span class="hps">also</span> <span class="hps">was the inspiration for</span> <span class="hps">embroidery</span> <span class="hps">motifs</span> <span class="hps">but</span> <span class="hps">write about it</span> <span class="hps">next time.</span></span><br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-67WcZlVfuZg/VjOXx2mngyI/AAAAAAAAFH8/a9pRHuqcgt4/s1600/11206-_Lozko.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="274" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-67WcZlVfuZg/VjOXx2mngyI/AAAAAAAAFH8/a9pRHuqcgt4/s320/11206-_Lozko.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> <a href="http://czasnawnetrze.pl/malarstwo-polskie/wystawy/12938-pomorskie-meble-malowane-ze-zbiorow-muzeum-narodowego-w-szczecinie">Bed from the National Museum collection, Łóżko ze zbiorów Muzeum Narodowego w Szczecinie, 1787</a></td></tr>
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<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps"> </span></span>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wWNsS06qeK4/VjOY63c5kjI/AAAAAAAAFII/OJtx3GYPOqc/s1600/Picnik%2Bcollage2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="230" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wWNsS06qeK4/VjOY63c5kjI/AAAAAAAAFII/OJtx3GYPOqc/s320/Picnik%2Bcollage2.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My reproduction of sampler from 1822, from collection National Museum in Warsaw</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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Powyżej moja replika wzornika, który znajduje się obecnie w Muzeum Narodowym w Warszawie. Nawiązuje ona motywami do stylu amerykańskiej fraktury: motywy są małe, uproszczone w formie jak chociażby klepsydra i czy mały wazon z kwiatami, widać też formę geometryczą przypominającą te wykorzystywane w patchworkach. <br />
Here is my reproduction of sampler from Warsaw National Museum, dated 1822. It is remaind me primitve and folk style as in fraktur motives you can see.
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atelierpolonaisehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12221915032674869681noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8315684709486567201.post-89524698232780857192015-09-30T22:55:00.000+02:002015-09-30T22:55:04.650+02:00Historia teatru miejskiego w Gdańsku w latach 1800 - 1841. History of Statdtheater in old Danzig in early 19th century.<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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Od ostatniej mojej recenzji
książkowej minęło tyle czasu, że nawet jej już nie pamiętam. Dziś zatem kilka
słów o książce, która zawładnęła mną na kilka tygodni. Nie jest to zwykła
książka - to praca naukowa ale czyta się ją jak historyczną gawędę o dawnych
czasach. I takie historie bardzo lubię.<br />
<br />
<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">This time</span> <span class="hps">I write</span> <span class="hps">about</span><span>'ve read</span> <span class="hps">the book</span> <span class="hps">recently</span><span>.</span> <span class="hps">It concerns</span> <span class="hps">the history of</span> <span class="hps">the municipal theater</span> <span class="hps">in Gdansk</span> <span class="hps">in 1800</span> <span class="hps">-</span> <span class="hps">1841.</span> </span></div>
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Autorka - Ewelina Damps przebadała
źródła pisane dotyczące historii teatru w Gdańsku w dość ciężkim czasie dla
Gdańska w latach 1800 - ( to jest od chwili założenia teatru miejskiego) aż do
końca lat 30. XIX wieku. Kopalnią wiedzy okazał się zbiór afiszy teatralnych.
To one prowadziły autorkę po kartach historii miasta, kultury i obyczaju w
Gdańsku.<br />
<br />
<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">The author</span> <span class="hps">-</span> <span class="hps">Ewelina</span> <span class="hps">Damps</span> <span class="hps">examined the</span> <span class="hps">written sources</span> <span class="hps">on the</span> <span class="hps">history of theater</span> <span class="hps">in Gdansk</span> <span class="hps">in a rather</span> <span class="hps">difficult time</span> <span class="hps">for Gdansk</span> <span class="hps">in 1800</span> <span class="hps atn">- (</span><span class="">that is, from</span> <span class="hps">the founding of</span> <span class="hps">the city theater</span><span>) until</span> <span class="hps">the end of the</span> <span class="hps">30s</span><span>.</span> <span class="hps">nineteenth</span> <span class="hps">century.</span><span class="hps"></span></span> </div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2nv1rnKPf5s/VgwJi8PgwWI/AAAAAAAAFEM/4Ss3CuXX6qI/s1600/016078.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="188" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2nv1rnKPf5s/VgwJi8PgwWI/AAAAAAAAFEM/4Ss3CuXX6qI/s320/016078.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.theatre-architecture.eu/pl/db/?theatreId=916">Widok Targu Węglowego z budynkiem teatru w tle, około 1830, grafika, Instytut Teatralny im, Z. Raszewskiego, Warszawa </a></td></tr>
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Wszystko zaczyna się jeszcze w końcu XVIII
wieku, kiedy szkoła fechtunku była rozwalającą się budą bez ogrzewania, bez miejsca
przeznaczonego dla aktorów i garderób. W tym czasie sztuki wystawiało Towarzystwo
Teatralne rodziny Schuch i to ono podjęło się złożenia petycji do Rady Miejskiej
w sprawie wybudowania nowego budynku teatralnego. Teatr powstał z wielkim
wysiłkiem między innymi dzięki <a href="https://pl.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jakob_Kabrun">Jacobowi Kabrunowi</a>. W pierwszych rozdziałach
autorka opisuje w jaki sposób powstawał teatr, kto go projektował i gdzie w
końcu został wybudowany. Uroczyste otwarcie teatru miało miejsce<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>w 1800 roku i wystawiono nań sztukę <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Das Vaterland</i> A. W. Ifflanda. Tak
zaczynają się dzieje teatru w Gdańsku w XIX wieku.<br />
<br />
<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">Everything starts</span> <span class="hps">even</span> <span class="hps">in the late eighteenth</span> <span class="hps">century</span><span>,</span> <span class="hps">when the school</span> <span class="hps">fencing</span> <span class="hps">was</span> <span class="hps">a broken-down</span> <span class="hps">shack</span> <span class="hps">with no heating</span><span>, no</span> <span class="hps">space reserved</span> <span class="hps">for actors</span> <span class="hps">and</span> <span class="hps">wardrobes</span><span>.</span> <span class="hps">At that time the</span> <span class="hps">art</span> <span class="hps">exhibited</span> <span class="hps">Theatrical</span> <span class="hps">Society</span> <span class="hps">Schuch</span> <span class="hps">family</span> <span class="hps">and that</span> <span class="hps">it</span> <span class="hps">has taken</span> <span class="hps">a</span> <span class="hps">petition</span> <span class="hps">to the City Council</span> <span class="hps">regarding</span> <span class="hps">the construction of</span> <span class="hps">a new</span> <span class="hps">theater building</span><span>.</span> <span class="hps">The theater was created</span> <span class="hps">with great effort</span><span>, among other things</span> <span class="hps">thanks to</span> <span class="hps">Jacob</span> <span class="hps">Kabrun (collector and wealthy merchant)</span><span>.</span> <span class="hps">In the first</span> <span class="hps">chapter</span> <span class="hps">the author</span> <span class="hps">describes</span> <span class="hps">how the</span> <span class="hps">theater</span> <span class="hps">was built</span><span>,</span> <span class="hps">who</span> <span class="hps">designed</span> <span class="hps">it</span> <span class="hps">and</span> <span class="hps">where it</span> <span class="hps">was eventually</span> <span class="hps">built</span><span>.</span> <span class="hps">The ceremonial opening of</span> <span class="hps">the theater</span> <span class="hps">took place</span> <span class="hps">in 1800 and</span> <span class="hps">issued</span> <span class="hps">him</span> <span class="hps">a piece</span> <span class="hps">of <i>Das</i></span><i> <span class="hps">Vaterland</span></i> by <span class="hps">A.W.</span> <span class="hps">Iffland</span><span>.</span> <span class="hps">So</span> <span class="hps">they begin to happen</span> <span class="hps">theater in</span> <span class="hps">Gdansk in</span> <span class="hps">the nineteenth</span> <span class="hps">century.</span></span> </div>
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<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qftu7zSSHH4/VgwMBFo9E0I/AAAAAAAAFEc/3IntfOZPc94/s1600/Jacob_Kabrun_of_Danzig.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qftu7zSSHH4/VgwMBFo9E0I/AAAAAAAAFEc/3IntfOZPc94/s320/Jacob_Kabrun_of_Danzig.jpg" width="238" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://pl.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jakob_Kabrun">Dandysowaty portret J. Kabruna, pocz. XIX wieku.</a></td></tr>
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<div align="center" style="text-align: center;">
Jak autorka sama zaznacza: <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Całość opracowania utrzymana jest</i> <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">– by rzec – w duchu szkoły Zbigniewa
Raszewskiego oraz Jerzego Gota. Płynna, ciągła narracja z dbałością o szczegóły
była świadomym zamierzeniem autorki.*</i></div>
<div align="center" style="text-align: center;">
Ta płynna ciągła narracja powoduje,
że książkę czyta się jak powieść a najciekawsze wydają się te czasy opisujące
historię teatru w czasie oblężenia francuskiego <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>z lat 1807 – 1813. Autorka sięga do wspomnień,
gazet i czasopism niemieckich wydawanych także w ówczesnym Gdańsku,
przedstawiając niezwykle ciekawe perypetie aktorów pracujących w Gdańsku czy
nawet tych, którzy byli zapraszani do Gdańska.<br />
<br />
<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">This</span> <span class="hps">smooth</span> <span class="hps">continuous</span> <span class="hps">narrative</span> <span class="hps">makes the</span> <span class="hps">book</span> <span class="hps">reads like a</span> <span class="hps">novel</span> <span class="hps">and</span> <span class="hps">interesting</span> <span class="hps">these</span> <span class="hps">days</span> <span class="hps">seem to be</span> <span class="hps">describing the history</span> <span class="hps">of the theater</span> <span class="hps">during the siege</span> <span class="hps">of the French</span> <span class="hps">from the years</span> <span class="hps">1807</span> <span class="hps">-</span> <span class="hps">1813.</span> <span class="hps">The author</span> <span class="hps">goes back</span> <span class="hps">to</span> <span class="hps">memories</span> <span class="hps">of German</span> <span class="hps">newspapers and magazines</span> <span class="hps">also</span> <span class="hps">published</span> <span class="hps">in the</span> <span class="hps">Gdansk</span><span>, presenting</span> <span class="hps">an</span> <span class="hps">interesting</span> <span class="hps">adventures</span> <span class="hps">actors</span> <span class="hps">working in</span> <span class="hps">Gdansk or</span> <span class="hps">even those who</span> <span class="hps">were invited</span> <span class="hps">to Gdansk.</span></span><br />
<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps"> </span></span> </div>
<div align="center" style="text-align: center;">
Uwagę zwracają zwłaszcza tłumaczenia
z nienieckiego na polski, które w niczym nie przypominają tych, które można spotkać
w innych publikacjach omawiające historię Gdańska. W czasie kiedy Gdańsk „gościł”
u siebie Francuzów, teatr działał dość prężnie ze względu na to, że francuski gubernator
generał Rapp chciał a nawet żądał aby w teatrze odbywały się przedstawienia teatralne
(oczywiście w guście francuskim wychwalające Napoleona) oraz aby odbywały się
tam również bale i reduty: </div>
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<div align="center" style="text-align: center;">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Nie
wynikało to ze szczerej tęsknoty za sztuką. Gen. Rapp już wcześniej zamienił
część żołdu oficerskiego na bilety teatralne, ratując tym samym teatr od
upadku. (…) Hüray [dyrektor gdańskiego teatru] prosił, aby żołnierze
przychodzili do teatru w mundurach, co ułatwiało pracę bileterom i
automatycznie potwierdzało status żołnierza oraz posiadanie abonamentu. </i></div>
<div align="center" style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
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<span style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"> I teraz najciekawszy fragment tłumaczenia autorki jednego z zamieszczonych afiszy z dnia (kiedy odbywało się przedstawienie i reduta) 14.02. 1809: </span><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Do
wynajętych lóż wstęp bez pozwolenia właściciela, nie należy wchodzić z maskami.
</i></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Palenie
jakiegokolwiek tytoniu jest zabronione. </i></div>
<div align="center" style="text-align: center;">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Drinki
odświeżające wszelkiego rodzaju znajdować się będą w sali i na galerii. </i></div>
<div align="center" style="text-align: center;">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Kto
chciałby zostawić płaszcze, kapelusze, futra itd., należy się udać do pani w
budce, gdzie otrzyma numerek, a przy wychodzeniu należy oddać numerek, by
otrzymać pozostawione rzeczy w zamian za drobna dobrowolna opłatą. Maski
weneckie różnego rodzaju można nabyć u garderobianego Rings(…).</i></div>
<div align="center" style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div align="center" style="text-align: center;">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-02AWoSRvpvU/VgwQbPxi3nI/AAAAAAAAFEw/230Dd0tvoxI/s1600/1820-07%2BParis%2BDancers%2B2.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="219" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-02AWoSRvpvU/VgwQbPxi3nI/AAAAAAAAFEw/230Dd0tvoxI/s320/1820-07%2BParis%2BDancers%2B2.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://twonerdyhistorygirls.blogspot.com/2010/06/dance-sensations-of-1820.html"><i>Kadryl do muzyki L'Horatia, ilustracja z Belle Assamblee, 1820</i></a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Takie
wiadomości podaje nam autorka książki; są to perełki jakie ja rzadko spotykam w
innych książkach zajmujących się historią miasta a przede wszystkim historią
kultury. Widać, że autorce zależało na podaniu nie tylko suchych faktów
historycznych ale także tego jacy to byli ludzie, co lubili a czego nie cenili
a publiczność gdańska bywała bardzo wybredna i potrafiła być też bardzo złośliwa.
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--56DRj-2b40/VgxHD6NqP7I/AAAAAAAAFF8/A73eKRYBBmc/s1600/94299180eac309a5205b1dd349a2e240.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--56DRj-2b40/VgxHD6NqP7I/AAAAAAAAFF8/A73eKRYBBmc/s320/94299180eac309a5205b1dd349a2e240.jpg" width="172" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.pinterest.com/pin/44895327505726322/"><i>Suknia balowa, luty, 1820, Belle Assemblee</i></a></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Na
początku XIX wieku w teatrze na parterze nie było siedzeń pojawiły się one
dopiero później, tam po prostu się stało, komentowało na głos, czasami aktor
prowadził dialog z <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">spektatorami</i> – jak
określa widzów autorka, czasami w aktorów rzucano przedmiotami zwłaszcza jak
mówili słabo, złe albo jak nie znali swoich kwestii i za nich robił to sufler –
w tym czasie jedna z ważniejszych osób w teatrze. W loży także było nie za poważnie,
bywało i jedzenie ja i picie, głośne zachowanie, rozmowy i dyskusje. Teatr XIX
wieczny więcej sobie pozwalał niż jest to dziś dopuszczalne. I trudniej było
być aktorem w tamtych czasach. </span></div>
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<br />
<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">In the early nineteenth</span> <span class="hps">century</span> <span class="hps">in the theater</span> <span class="hps">on the ground floor</span> <span class="hps">there were no</span> <span class="hps">seats</span> <span class="hps">they will appear</span> <span class="hps">later</span><span>,</span> <span class="hps">there</span> <span class="hps">just happened</span><span>,</span> <span class="hps">commented</span> <span class="hps">aloud</span><span>,</span> <span class="hps">sometimes</span> <span class="hps">the actor</span> <span class="hps">led the</span> <span class="hps">dialogue with</span> <span class="hps">spektators</span> <span class="hps">-</span> <span class="hps">as defined</span> <span class="hps">audience</span> <span class="hps">author</span><span>,</span> <span class="hps">sometimes</span> <span class="hps">the</span> <span class="hps">actors</span> <span class="hps">thrown</span> <span class="hps">objects,</span> <span class="hps">especially</span> <span class="hps">as they said</span> <span class="hps">weakly</span><span>,</span> <span class="hps">bad</span> <span class="hps">or how</span> <span class="hps">they did not know</span> <span class="hps">my lines</span> <span class="hps">and</span> <span class="hps">doing it</span> <span class="hps">for them</span> <span class="hps">prompter</span> <span class="hps">-</span> <span class="hps">at that time</span> <span class="hps">one</span> <span class="hps">of the most important</span> <span class="hps">people</span> <span class="hps">in the theater.</span> <span class="hps">The</span> <span class="hps">lodge</span> <span class="hps">also</span> <span class="hps">was</span> <span class="hps">not too</span> <span class="hps">seriously</span> <span class="hps">at times</span> <span class="hps">and</span> <span class="hps">eating</span> <span class="hps">it</span> <span class="hps">and</span> <span class="hps">drinking</span><span>, loud</span> <span class="hps">behavior,</span> <span class="hps">conversations and discussions</span><span>.</span> <span class="hps">Theatre of</span> <span class="hps">the nineteenth</span> <span class="hps">century</span> <span class="hps">more</span> <span class="hps">liberties</span> <span class="hps">than is</span> <span class="hps">now</span> <span class="hps">permitted.</span> <span class="hps">And</span> <span class="hps">it was harder</span> <span class="hps">to be an actor</span> <span class="hps">at the time.</span></span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MA24fLT5jKk/Vgw5Brz8kyI/AAAAAAAAFFA/Ofw2iX3lydU/s1600/Ludwig_Devrient_by_Wilhelm_Christoph_Wohlien.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MA24fLT5jKk/Vgw5Brz8kyI/AAAAAAAAFFA/Ofw2iX3lydU/s320/Ludwig_Devrient_by_Wilhelm_Christoph_Wohlien.jpg" width="274" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ludwig_Devrient">Portret Ludwiga Devrienta pędzla Wilhelma Christopha Wohliena, Berlin, 1830</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SO60TrYHnS8/Vgw5t7FY0YI/AAAAAAAAFFI/ai4uMOot5Kc/s1600/1200px-Wilhelm_Hensel_-_Ludwig_Devrient_-_Franz_Moor.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="186" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SO60TrYHnS8/Vgw5t7FY0YI/AAAAAAAAFFI/ai4uMOot5Kc/s320/1200px-Wilhelm_Hensel_-_Ludwig_Devrient_-_Franz_Moor.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Wilhelm_Hensel_-_Ludwig_Devrient_-_Franz_Moor.jpg">Szkice przedstawiające L. Devrienta w czasie gry w sztuce Zbójcy F. Schillera</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;">Przez
cały całą pierwszą połowę XIX wieku w Gdańsku wystawiano sztuki znanych,
cenionych pisarzy z kręgu kultury niemieckiej ale też wystawiano sztuki
Szekspira. Byli to tacy autorzy sztuk jak A. W. Iffland, znany jako reformator
teatru w Niemczech, był aktorem i autorem znanych w swym czasie sztuk
teatralnych. Wystawiano tutaj też sztuki Goethego i Augusta Kotzebuego, znany
ze swych preferencji prorosyjskich został tragicznie zamordowany przez
studenta, który uważał go za szpiega rosyjskiego. Jego najbardziej znana sztuka
to <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Hrabia Beniowski czy spisek na
Kamczatce. </i>Na scenie gdańskiej wystawiano tez sztuki napisane przez
kobiety. Wyróżniały się dwie: Johanna Franul von Weissenthurn i Charlotte Birch
– Pfeiffer. Obie panie były aktorkami i autorkami sztuk dramatycznych ale także
i komedii. Większą popularność zdobyła <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>pani
Charlotte – ilość wystawianych sztuk powodowała, że krytycy nazywali częste
wystawianie jej sztuk jako „birch – pfeifferowaniem". Cenionymi aktorami byli: <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ludwig_Devrient">Ludwig Devrient</a>, <a href="https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carl_von_La_Roche">Karl Ritter von la Roche</a>, Christph Sigismund Gruner, czy Wojciech Bogusławski. Cenionymi aktorkami były Caroline Bauer i najpiękniejsza z niemieckich aktorek Charlotte von Hagn. </span></span></span></span></div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span title="Przez cały całą pierwszą połowę XIX wieku w Gdańsku wystawiano sztuki znanych, cenionych pisarzy z kręgu kultury niemieckiej ale też wystawiano sztuki Szekspira.">Throughout
the entire first half of the nineteenth century in Gdansk, plays were
staged well-known, highly regarded writers from the circle of German
culture, but also staged Shakespeare's play. </span><span title="Byli to tacy autorzy sztuk jak AW Iffland, znany jako reformator teatru w Niemczech, był aktorem i autorem znanych w swym czasie sztuk teatralnych.">They
were pieces by authors such as A.W. Iffland, known as a reformer of
theater in Germany, he was an actor and author known in his time plays. </span><span title="Wystawiano tutaj też sztuki Goethego i Augusta Kotzebuego, znany ze swych preferencji prorosyjskich został tragicznie zamordowany przez studenta, który uważał go za szpiega rosyjskiego.">They
staged here too the art of Goethe and August Kotzebue, known for his
pro-Russian preferences was tragically murdered by a student who
regarded him as a Russian spy. </span><span title="Jego najbardziej znana sztuka to Hrabia Beniowski czy spisek na Kamczatce.">His most well-known art is <i>Earl Beniowski or conspiracy on Kamchatka.</i> </span><span title="Na scenie gdańskiej wystawiano tez sztuki napisane przez kobiety.">On stage Gdansk also staged art written by women. </span><span title="Wyróżniały się dwie: Johanna Franul von Weissenthurn i Charlotte Birch – Pfeiffer.">Two stand out: Johann von Franul Weissenthurn and Charlotte Birch - Pfeiffer. </span><span title="Obie panie były aktorkami i autorkami sztuk dramatycznych ale także i komedii.">Both ladies were actresses and authors but also the dramatic arts and comedy. </span><span title="Większą popularność zdobyła pani Charlotte – ilość wystawianych sztuk powodowała, że krytycy nazywali częste wystawianie jej sztuk jako „birch – pfeifferowaniem". Cenionymi aktorami byli: Ludwig Devrient, Karl Ritter von la Roche, Christph Sigismund Gruner, czy Wojciech Bogusławski. Cenionymi aktorkami były Caroline">Increasing
popularity won the Mrs. Charlotte - number of issued units meant that
critics have called the frequent issuance of her pieces as " a birch -
pfeiffers art." Esteemed actors were Ludwig Devrient, Karl Ritter von
la Roche, Christph Sigismund Gruner, and Wojciech Bogusławski. Esteemed
actresses were Caroline </span><span title="Bauer i najpiękniejsza z niemieckich aktorek Charlotte von Hagn.">Bauer and most beautiful of German actresses Charlotte von Hagn.</span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7qvzU_B5vAI/Vgw8qj_a0II/AAAAAAAAFFU/u2PiQtgsjYw/s1600/Reichan_Wojciech_Bogus%25C5%2582awski.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7qvzU_B5vAI/Vgw8qj_a0II/AAAAAAAAFFU/u2PiQtgsjYw/s320/Reichan_Wojciech_Bogus%25C5%2582awski.jpg" width="254" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="https://pl.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wojciech_Bogus%C5%82awski">J. Reichan, portret Wojciecha Bogusławskiego, 1798</a></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div align="center" style="text-align: center;">
</div>
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<div align="center" style="text-align: center;">
Pani Ewelina Damps podaje także sporo informacji o strojach w tym o tym jak wyglądała w tym czasie scenografia i jak ja wykonywano
a dla mnie najcenniejsze okazały się informacje o redutach i zwyczajach na nich. Są to cenne informacje dla badacza zajmującego się też historią tańca.<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-r4ogYwutS5c/Vgw95Hx_UUI/AAAAAAAAFFg/GIUV9nYPQ9k/s1600/800px-Charlotte_Birch-Pfeiffer.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-r4ogYwutS5c/Vgw95Hx_UUI/AAAAAAAAFFg/GIUV9nYPQ9k/s320/800px-Charlotte_Birch-Pfeiffer.jpg" width="252" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Charlotte_Birch-Pfeiffer">Portret Charlotte Birch - Pfeiffer, lata30. XIX wieku,litografia</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div align="center" style="text-align: center;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-USBPbVYDdQE/VgxBfUmMSeI/AAAAAAAAFFs/tskQzM8VuCg/s1600/Joseph_Karl_Stieler_-_Charlotte_von_Hagn%252C_1828.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-USBPbVYDdQE/VgxBfUmMSeI/AAAAAAAAFFs/tskQzM8VuCg/s320/Joseph_Karl_Stieler_-_Charlotte_von_Hagn%252C_1828.jpg" width="259" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Charlotte_von_Hagn?uselang=de#/media/File:Joseph_Karl_Stieler_-_Charlotte_von_Hagn,_1828.jpg">J. Steier, Charlotte von Hagn, 1828 w kostiumie Tekli córki tytułowego bohatera sztuki <i>Walleinstein</i> F. Schillera</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div align="center" style="text-align: center;">
<div style="text-align: center;">
Książkę polecam przede wszystkim czytelnikom zainteresowanych historią miasta, teatrem i kulturą obyczaju w początkach XIX wieku. I na koniec taka impresja: na książkę zwróciłam uwagę poprzez okładkę, jest inna, niż w naukowych publikacjach. Po jej przeczytaniu zachciało mi się nowej sukienki z lat 1826 - 1830, przypomniało mi się, że kiedyś na śmietniku znalazłam kupon nowego materiału bawełny w zielono czerwoną kratę, i teraz jest w trakcie jej szycia. Do czego może doprowadzić czytanie książek? </div>
<br />
Ewelina Damps<br />
<a href="http://kiw.ug.edu.pl/pl/historia/788-historia-teatru-miejskiego.html">Historia Teatru Miejskiego w Gdańsku (1801 - 1841)</a><br />
Wydawnictwo Uniwersytetu Gdańskiego, 2015 </div>
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<![endif]-->atelierpolonaisehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12221915032674869681noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8315684709486567201.post-46531019058480547582015-09-20T00:37:00.002+02:002015-09-20T00:42:14.233+02:00Nowe portfele. New embroidery pocketbook<div style="text-align: center;">
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pA5uG0kx2LQ/Vf3cUOSAbfI/AAAAAAAAFCc/ElqPHrgV6hQ/s1600/IMG_2524p.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="305" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pA5uG0kx2LQ/Vf3cUOSAbfI/AAAAAAAAFCc/ElqPHrgV6hQ/s320/IMG_2524p.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Moja kolekcja reprodukcji haftowanych portfeli znów się powiększyła. </div>
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Tym razem na warsztat wzięłam <a href="http://museumcollection.winterthur.org/single-record.php?resultsperpage=20&view=catalog&srchtype=advanced&hasImage=&ObjObjectName=&CreOrigin=&Earliest=&Latest=&CreCreatorLocal_tab=&materialsearch=&ObjObjectID=&ObjCategory=&DesMaterial_tab=&DesTechnique_tab=&AccCreditLineLocal=&CreMarkSignature=&recid=1953.0060&srchfld=&srchtxt=pocketbook&id=6b5a&rownum=1&version=100&src=results-imagelink-only#.Vf3V85e6OaY">porftel z Winthetur Museum</a>. Haftowany w dość rzadkim i niespotykanej technice jako rice stitch. </div>
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<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">My collection of</span> <span class="hps">reproductions</span> <span class="hps">of embroidered</span> <span class="hps">wallets</span> <span class="hps">again</span> <span class="hps">increased</span>.<span class="hps"> </span><span class="hps">It is </span>a pocketbook from <span class="hps"></span><span class="hps"></span> <span class="hps"></span> <span class="hps">Winthetur</span> <span class="hps">Museum collection.</span> <span class="hps">Embroidered with</span> <span class="hps">a rare</span> <span class="hps">and</span> <span class="hps">unprecedented</span> <span class="hps">technique</span> <span class="hps">as</span> <span class="hps">rice</span> <span class="hps">stitch</span><span class="">.</span></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qQQBBM88wpI/Vf3clYSd5TI/AAAAAAAAFCs/QhN_B17i9E8/s1600/1953.0060%2BPocketbook%252C%2BInside.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qQQBBM88wpI/Vf3clYSd5TI/AAAAAAAAFCs/QhN_B17i9E8/s320/1953.0060%2BPocketbook%252C%2BInside.jpg" width="284" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://museumcollection.winterthur.org/single-record.php?resultsperpage=20&view=catalog&srchtype=advanced&hasImage=&ObjObjectName=&CreOrigin=&Earliest=&Latest=&CreCreatorLocal_tab=&materialsearch=&ObjObjectID=&ObjCategory=&DesMaterial_tab=&DesTechnique_tab=&AccCreditLineLocal=&CreMarkSignature=&recid=1953.0060&srchfld=&srchtxt=pocketbook&id=6b5a&rownum=1&version=100&src=results-imagelink-only#.Vf3V85e6OaY">Portfel, rice stitch, 1725 - 1800, Winthertur Museum </a></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vxD4QU2b2JY/Vf3dW2x3x5I/AAAAAAAAFC4/4EeZdnzUNg4/s1600/1932-45-135a%252Cb.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vxD4QU2b2JY/Vf3dW2x3x5I/AAAAAAAAFC4/4EeZdnzUNg4/s320/1932-45-135a%252Cb.jpg" width="311" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.philamuseum.org/collections/permanent/44560.html?mulR=5824">Haftowana okładka na Biblię, rice stitch, 1814, Philadelphia Museum of Art</a></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Vc-S94MXsj0/Vf3fG-KMBUI/AAAAAAAAFDE/SGur-jFtyMY/s1600/SC14156.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Vc-S94MXsj0/Vf3fG-KMBUI/AAAAAAAAFDE/SGur-jFtyMY/s320/SC14156.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.mfa.org/collections/object/pair-of-womans-tie-shoes-123560">Damskie buty haftowane, rice stitch, 1720 - 1730, Museum of Fine Arts, Boston</a></td></tr>
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Niestety nic nie wiem o historii tego typu haftu. Wiadomo tylko, że popularny był (chyba) w XVIII wieku ale mało zabytków tego haftu jest reprezentowanych. Mój datowany jest na lata 1725 - 1800. O innych obiektach haftowanych w tym stylu - wiem tylko o portfelu i okładce na książkę oraz jednej parze butów damskich haftowanych właśnie tym samym stylem.<br />
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<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">Unfortunately,</span> <span class="hps">I know nothing about</span> <span class="hps">the history of</span> <span class="hps">this type of</span> <span class="hps">embroidery.</span> <span class="hps">It is only known</span> <span class="hps">that</span> <span class="hps">he was</span> <span class="hps">popular</span> <span class="hps">(I think)</span> <span class="hps">in the eighteenth</span> <span class="hps">century,</span> <span class="hps">but few</span> <span class="hps">monuments of this</span> <span class="hps">embroidery is</span> <span class="hps">represented.</span> <span class="hps">My pocketbook</span> <span class="hps">dates back to the</span> <span class="hps">years</span> <span class="hps">1725</span> <span class="hps">-</span> <span class="hps">1800.</span> <span class="hps">The</span> <span class="hps">other facilities</span> <span class="hps">embroidered</span> <span class="hps">in this style</span> <span class="hps">-</span> <span class="hps">I only know</span> <span class="hps">about</span> <span class="hps">some obcject</span>: <span class="hps">the cover</span> <span class="hps">for the book</span>, <span class="hps">one pair of</span> <span class="hps">dress shoes </span> <span class="hps">embroidered</span> <span class="hps">exactly</span> <span class="hps">the same</span> <span class="hps">style.</span></span> <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOD6KAw0EawTA1a9z3Ib0SZzhpJdqzPB96H1cey_gbBGVimLU-oa3kw2nP2q43eFV9ErU_Xe_EuJLhBSrn1mrQ3XIKX4of8wpZD5W6XDksV4Boleut4NCCCzGn0PpzzTz8PUKkr8hm14mp/s1600/IMG_2497p.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOD6KAw0EawTA1a9z3Ib0SZzhpJdqzPB96H1cey_gbBGVimLU-oa3kw2nP2q43eFV9ErU_Xe_EuJLhBSrn1mrQ3XIKX4of8wpZD5W6XDksV4Boleut4NCCCzGn0PpzzTz8PUKkr8hm14mp/s320/IMG_2497p.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-w7f8f6RCpAs/Vf3cfmv5YwI/AAAAAAAAFCo/Zvw-qjTVj_I/s1600/5a8a49cd13c2161059762049973ce8e5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="216" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-w7f8f6RCpAs/Vf3cfmv5YwI/AAAAAAAAFCo/Zvw-qjTVj_I/s320/5a8a49cd13c2161059762049973ce8e5.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://museumcollection.winterthur.org/single-record.php?resultsperpage=20&view=catalog&srchtype=advanced&hasImage=&ObjObjectName=&CreOrigin=&Earliest=&Latest=&CreCreatorLocal_tab=&materialsearch=&ObjObjectID=&ObjCategory=&DesMaterial_tab=&DesTechnique_tab=&AccCreditLineLocal=&CreMarkSignature=&recid=1953.0060&srchfld=&srchtxt=pocketbook&id=5c8b&rownum=1&version=100&src=results-imagelink-only#.Vf3kYpe6OaY">Pocketbook, 1725 - 1800, Winthertur Museum Collection</a></td></tr>
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Haft dość prosty - krzyżyk "zahaftowywuje" się na każdym rogu także powstają dodatkowe mniejsze cztery krzyżyki. Niestety jeśli chce się wyhaftować duży obszar to zajmuje on trochę czasu. Ja dość długo pracowałam nad nim ale efekt jest taki sam. Haft ten powoduje sztywność, nie rozchodzi sie nie jest delikatny i być może był stosowany przy obiciach mebli co był popularne w XVIII wieku (tak się stało z haftem bargello). Haft na białej kanwie jedno nitkowejw gamie barw czerwieni i granatu z zielenią, kontur stanowi kolor czarny. Użyłam nici Ariadna. Wymiary portfela to szerokość 13 cm a wysokość - 25cm. Niestety jego małe wymiary nie pozwoliły na zrobienie dwustronnego jak w oryginale tylko jednostronny, dodałam tylko jeszcze jedną kieszonkę. Używam go do dokumentów i ochrony telefonu.<br />
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<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">Embroidery</span> <span class="hps">quite</span> <span class="hps">simple</span> <span class="hps">-</span> <span class="hps">cross</span> <span class="hps atn"></span> <span class="hps">on every</span> <span class="hps">corner</span> <span class="hps">on a big cross stitch as</span> <span class="hps">there are additional</span> <span class="hps">smaller</span> <span class="hps">four</span> <span class="hps">crosses.</span> <span class="hps">Unfortunately,</span> <span class="hps">if you want to</span> <span class="hps">embroider</span> <span class="hps">a large area</span> <span class="hps">it takes</span> <span class="hps">a</span> <span class="hps">little time.</span> <span class="hps">I</span> <span class="hps">worked</span> <span class="hps">a long time</span> <span class="hps">on it</span> <span class="hps">but the effect</span> <span class="hps">is the same.</span> My work <span class="hps">causes</span> <span class="hps">stiffness,</span> <span class="hps">does not propagate</span> <span class="hps">is not a</span> <span class="hps">delicate</span> <span class="hps">and</span> <span class="hps">perhaps</span> <span class="hps">was</span> <span class="hps">used for</span> <span class="hps">the upholstery</span> <span class="hps">of furniture</span> <span class="hps">that</span> <span class="hps">was</span> <span class="hps">popular in</span> <span class="hps">the eighteenth</span> <span class="hps atn">century (</span>this happened <span class="hps">with embroidery</span> <span class="hps">Bargello</span>).My <span class="hps">embroidery on</span> <span class="hps">white</span> <span class="hps">canvas</span> <span class="hps"></span> <span class="hps">range of colors</span> <span class="hps">of red</span> <span class="hps">and navy blue</span> <span class="hps">with green</span>, <span class="hps">outline</span> <span class="hps">is</span> <span class="hps">black.</span> <span class="hps">I used the Polish thread -</span> <span class="hps">Ariadne</span><span class="hps"></span>. <span class="hps">The dimensions</span> <span class="hps">of the portfolio</span> <span class="hps">is</span> <span class="hps">13 cm</span> <span class="hps">width</span> <span class="hps">and</span> <span class="hps">height -</span> <span class="hps">25cm</span>. <span class="hps">Unfortunately,</span> <span class="hps">small size</span> <span class="hps">did not allow me for</span> <span class="hps">making</span> <span class="hps">two-sided</span> <span class="hps">as the original but</span> <span class="hps">only</span> <span class="hps">one-sided</span>, <span class="hps">I added</span> <span class="hps">only</span> <span class="hps">one more</span> <span class="hps">pocket</span>. <span class="hps">I use it</span> <span class="hps">to</span> <span class="hps">document</span> <span class="hps">and</span> <span class="hps">protect phone</span><span class="">.</span></span><br />
<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class=""> </span></span> <br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XQhX2PyfQZk/Vf3hCfOXhxI/AAAAAAAAFDw/9Wvk645_mgs/s1600/b0c8b4a821245fd9798e3ccf1dff541f.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XQhX2PyfQZk/Vf3hCfOXhxI/AAAAAAAAFDw/9Wvk645_mgs/s1600/b0c8b4a821245fd9798e3ccf1dff541f.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.skinnerinc.com/auctions/2195/lots/1082">Portfel, 1818, Skinner Auction</a></td></tr>
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<a href="https://www.skinnerinc.com/auctions/2195/lots/1082">Drugi portfelik</a> to geometryczny haft w stylu bargello z 1818 roku. Kolory zmieniłam na bardziej żywe. Wykonany na kanwie lnianej i ma wymiary: szerokość: 11,4 cm, wysokość: 15, 4 cm (tylko bok).<br />
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<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">The second</span> <span class="hps">wallet</span> <span class="hps">is a</span> <span class="hps">geometric</span> <span class="hps">embroidery</span> <span class="hps">in the style of</span> <span class="hps">the Bargello</span> - zig - zag, dated <span class="hps">from </span><span class="hps">1818</span>. <span class="hps">I changed</span> <span class="hps">the colors</span> <span class="hps">more vivid</span>. <span class="hps">Made</span> <span class="hps">on a canvas</span> <span class="hps">of flax and</span> <span class="hps">has dimensions</span>: <span class="hps">width</span> <span class="hps">11.4</span> <span class="hps">cm, height</span>: 15, <span class="hps">4 cm</span> <span class="hps atn">(</span><span class="">one side</span> <span class="hps">only</span>).</span> </div>
atelierpolonaisehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12221915032674869681noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8315684709486567201.post-20161808331725958482015-09-16T16:54:00.005+02:002015-09-16T16:54:59.228+02:00Nadszedł czas zmian. Time to change<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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Od jakiegoś czasu zauważyłam,
że potrzebuję przewietrzyć okna na blogu, było zbyt duszno. Ten rok jakoś mnie
zniechęcił do pisania postów i w ogóle <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>o
dbanie o bloga. </div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
Nie miałam ani inwencji o czym pisać ( bo ile można pisać o strojach?)
ani jak pisać aby się nie powtarzać. Po za tym odniosłam tez wrażenie, że
młodsi zajmują głos więc może lepiej „zwinąć manatki” i udać się na emeryturę
blogową. Większą część pisania zajmuje mi doktorat i praca naukowa, w tym także
cyklicznie ukazują się moje artykuły dotyczące kostiumologii.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">For some time</span> <span class="hps">I noticed</span> <span class="hps">that I needed</span> <span class="hps">to ventilate</span> <span class="hps">the windows</span> <span class="hps">on the blog</span><span>, it was too</span> <span class="hps">stuffy.</span> <span class="hps">This</span> <span class="hps">year</span> <span class="hps">somehow</span> <span class="hps">discouraged</span> <span class="hps">me</span> <span class="hps">to write</span> <span class="hps">posts</span> <span class="hps">and all</span> <span class="hps">about</span> <span class="hps">taking care of</span> <span class="hps">my blog.</span><br /><br /> <span class="hps">I had no</span> <span class="hps">or</span> <span class="hps">creativity</span> <span class="hps">to write</span> <span class="hps atn">(</span><span>as</span> <span class="hps">long as</span> <span class="hps">you can write about</span> <span class="hps">clothes</span><span>?</span><span>)</span> <span class="hps">Or</span> <span class="hps">how to write</span> <span class="hps">that it does not</span> <span class="hps">repeat</span><span>.</span> <span></span><span class="hps">The greater part of</span> <span class="hps">writing</span> <span class="hps">takes me a</span> <span class="hps">doctorate</span> <span class="hps">and</span> <span class="hps">scientific work</span><span>, including</span> <span class="hps">periodically</span> <span class="hps">appear in</span> <span class="hps">my</span> <span class="hps">articles about</span> <span class="hps">costumes</span><span class="">.</span></span> </div>
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<br /></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
Z bloga nie
zrezygnuję, doszłam do wniosku, że jeszcze mam czytelników z którymi nie chcę tracić kontaktu i to jedyne miejsce gdzie mogę uczyć się nowych rzeczy związanych z blogowaniem. </div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
Powoli zaczęłam od zmian zewnętrznych. Nadal będę pisać o szytych
przez ze mnie strojach i innych projektach ale dodam do tego recenzje książek
związanych z modą i z Gdańskiem. Mój drugi blog poświęcony tańcom także będę aktualizować w miarę możliwości. </div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">From the</span> <span class="hps">blog</span> <span class="hps">does not</span> <span class="hps">give up</span><span>,</span> <span class="hps">I came to</span> <span class="hps">the conclusion that</span> <span class="hps">even</span> <span class="hps">readers</span> <span class="hps">with whom</span> <span class="hps">I</span> <span class="hps">do not want to</span> <span class="hps">lose contact</span> <span class="hps">and</span> <span class="hps">is the only place</span> <span class="hps">where I can</span> <span class="hps">learn new</span> <span class="hps">things related to</span> <span class="hps">blogging</span><span>.</span><br /><br /> <span class="hps">Slowly</span> <span class="hps">I started</span> <span class="hps">from</span> <span class="hps">external changes</span><span>.</span> <span class="hps">I will continue</span> <span class="hps">to write about</span> <span class="hps">sewn</span> <span class="hps">by</span> <span class="hps">me</span> <span class="hps">clothes</span> <span class="hps">and</span> <span class="hps">other projects</span> <span class="hps">but</span> <span class="hps">I will add</span> <span class="hps">to this</span> <span class="hps">book reviews</span> <span class="hps">related to fashion</span> <span class="hps">and</span> <span class="hps">Gdansk</span><span class="">.</span> <span class="hps">My second</span> <span class="hps">blog dedicated to</span> <span class="hps">dances</span> <span class="hps">as</span> <span class="hps">I will</span> <span class="hps">update</span> <span class="hps">as much as possible</span></span> </div>
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W tym roku przez jakiś czas byłam na fc jako Floria Gentileski ale niestety moje konto zostało zablokowane bo nie podałam swoich danych (czego robić nie chcę nadal). Niestety nie rozumiem dlaczego z momentem kiedy piszę czy wstawiam cokolwiek na fc staje się to nagle własnością tej platformy? Moje zdjęcia i moja praca jest moją własnością a jeszcze podawanie danych osobistych jak numery konta bankowego i skany dowodów osobistych to chyba już za wiele i nie są zgodne z prawem. Oczywiście z konta zrezygnowałam, szkoda tylko, że z tym straciłam kilka ciekawych kontaktów. Być może "umoszczę się" na instagramie - szkoda tylko, że program nie działa w Windowsie. </div>
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<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
A na początek jako zapowiedź - mój nowy gorset z końca XVIII wieku tym razem w całości usztywniany. Szyję także teraz dwie sukienki plus dwie torebki. </div>
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<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">And</span> <span class="hps">at the beginning of</span> <span class="hps">the</span> <span class="hps">announcement</span> <span class="hps">- my</span> <span class="hps">new</span> <span class="hps">corset</span> full boned <span class="hps">from the late eighteenth</span> <span class="hps">century</span><span class="hps">.</span> <span class="hps">I also</span> sew <span class="hps">now</span> <span class="hps">two regency dresses</span><span>, plus two</span> reticules<span class="">.</span></span> </div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hRtvTugOoSU/VfmA8heAGWI/AAAAAAAAFCE/iUVKm8t9-Wg/s1600/1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hRtvTugOoSU/VfmA8heAGWI/AAAAAAAAFCE/iUVKm8t9-Wg/s320/1.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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atelierpolonaisehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12221915032674869681noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8315684709486567201.post-9321937694634187452015-08-12T13:27:00.000+02:002015-08-12T13:27:41.374+02:00Artykuł o haftach. My new article about embroidery<div style="text-align: center;">
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oPC8HpjAbiM/Vcss_1gw2YI/AAAAAAAAFBE/S4QCAeF3l8E/s1600/IMG_2195.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oPC8HpjAbiM/Vcss_1gw2YI/AAAAAAAAFBE/S4QCAeF3l8E/s320/IMG_2195.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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Na początku lipca ukazał się mój kolejny artykuł <a href="http://www.ejournals.eu/GSAW/2015/Zeszyt-7-2015/art/4937/"><i>Dzieje haftu na Jedwabnym Szlaku</i></a> , który jest przedwstępną zapowiedzią wznowienia mojej książki poświęconej Jedwabnemu Szlakowi. Artykuł poświęcony jest historii haftu na Jedwabnym Szlaku i jak jego techniki rozwinęły się w Europie a przede wszystkim w XVIII wieku, gdzie techniki i styl chińskiego hafciarstwa został skopiowany na potrzeby rynku europejskiego.</div>
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Artykuł ukazał się w czasopiśmie <a href="http://gdańskie studia azji wschodniej">Gdańskie Studia Azji Wschodniej, zeszyt 7, 2015 </a></div>
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<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">At the</span> <span class="hps">beginning of July</span> <span class="hps">appeared</span> <span class="hps">my next</span> <span class="hps">article</span> <a href="http://www.ejournals.eu/GSAW/2015/Zeszyt-7-2015/art/4937/"><i><span class="hps">History of</span> <span class="hps">embroidery</span> <span class="hps">on the Silk Road</span></i></a><span>,</span> <span class="hps">which is</span> <span class="hps">a preliminary</span> <span class="hps">announcement of</span> <span class="hps">the resumption</span> <span class="hps">of my book</span> <span class="hps">dedicated to</span> <span class="hps">the Silk</span> <span class="hps">Road</span><span>.</span> <span class="hps">The article is devoted</span> <span class="hps">to the history of</span> <span class="hps">embroidery</span> <span class="hps">on the Silk Road</span> <span class="hps">and how</span> <span class="hps">its techniques</span> <span class="hps">developed</span> <span class="hps">during</span> <span class="hps">the Middle Ages</span> <span class="hps">and above all</span> <span class="hps">in the eighteenth century</span><span>,</span> <span class="hps">where</span> <span class="hps">technology and</span> <span class="hps">style</span> <span class="hps">of Chinese</span> <span class="hps">embroidery</span> <span class="hps">has been copied</span> <span class="hps">for the European market</span><span>. </span></span></div>
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<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span><span class="short_text" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">This article was published</span> <span class="hps">in the journal<a href="http://www.ejournals.eu/GSAW/2015/Zeszyt-7-2015/"> Gdańskie Studia Azji Wschodniej, zeszyt 7, 2015</a></span></span><a href="http://www.ejournals.eu/GSAW/2015/Zeszyt-7-2015/"> </a></span></span> </div>
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atelierpolonaisehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12221915032674869681noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8315684709486567201.post-52193603791927372342015-08-05T22:18:00.001+02:002015-08-05T22:25:00.394+02:00My old new regency dress. Suknia, którą lubię. <div style="text-align: center;">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A to moje ulubione zdjęcie. Here is my loved photo. </td></tr>
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Bal w Krakowie podczas warsztatów tańców dworskich Cracovia Danza (o warsztatach piszę na moim drugim blogu -<a href="http://chiaranzana.blogspot.com/2015/08/co-sie-wydarzyo-w-krakowie.html"> taneczne notatki z przeszłości</a>) był okazją do pokazania się w sukience, którą miałam na balu Arsenału ze spencerem bez rękawów. Tym razem sukienka była bohaterką. Była to jedyna impreza w której wzięłam udział w stroju. O samej sukience nie będę się rozpisywać bo co było można to zostało opisane. Jedyne co nowego pojawiło się w mojej kombinacji to nowy wachlarz w kolorze granatowym z białymi malowanymi ornamentami - ale jak to bywa zapomniałam zrobić sobie z nim zdjęcie. </div>
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Sukienka jeszcze raz okazała się bardzo wygodna (nie trzeba prosić o wiązanie). </div>
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<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">Ball in</span> <span class="hps">Krakow during</span> <span class="hps">the workshop</span> <span class="hps">Cracovia</span> <span class="hps">Danza</span> <span class="hps">Court Dance</span> <span class="hps">was an opportunity to</span> <span class="hps">show off</span> <span class="hps">the</span> <span class="hps">dress</span> <span class="hps">that I had</span> <span class="hps">a Arsenal ball</span> <span class="hps">in January with spencer</span><span class="hps"></span> <span class="hps">sleeveless</span>. <span class="hps">This time the</span> <span class="hps">dress</span> <span class="hps">was a "hero"</span>. <span class="hps">It was the</span> <span class="hps">only event</span> <span class="hps">in which</span> <span class="hps">I took part</span> <span class="hps">in the costume</span>. <span class="hps">The only thing</span> <span class="hps">new in</span> <span class="hps">my</span> <span class="hps">combination of</span> <span class="hps">this</span> <span class="hps">new</span> <span class="hps">fan</span> <span class="hps">in dark blue</span> <span class="hps">with white</span> <span class="hps">painted ornaments</span> <span class="hps">-</span> <span class="hps">but</span> <span class="hps">as it happens</span> <span class="hps">I forgot</span> <span class="hps">to take a</span> <span class="hps">picture with him</span>.<br /><br /> </span></div>
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atelierpolonaisehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12221915032674869681noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8315684709486567201.post-79607903600800844722015-07-14T23:04:00.002+02:002015-07-14T23:04:33.732+02:00Jeszcze jeden gorset Bernhardta i pół gorset z Utrechtu. More regency corsets.<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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Ostatnio udało mi się zakończyć
dwa gorsety. </div>
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Kolejny gorset Bernhardta z małymi modyfikacjami oraz pół gorset z
Utrechtu. Pierwszy gorset uszyty został z mojej ulubionej bawełny w grochy,
modyfikacje w nim to obniżona linia pleców, plastikowe fiszbiny na plecach
ponieważ bambusowe wbijały mi się w kość ogonową oraz miejsce na biust, które
zrobiłam wg. regencyjnego gorsetu z ksiązki Jill Salen. </div>
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<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">Recently</span> <span class="hps">I was able to</span> <span class="hps">complete</span> <span class="hps">two</span> <span class="hps">corsets</span><span>.</span><br /> <span class="hps">Another</span> <span class="hps">corset</span> <span class="hps">Bernhardt</span> <span class="hps">with small</span> <span class="hps">modifications</span> <span class="hps">and</span> <span class="hps">short stays</span> <span class="hps">from</span> <span class="hps">Utrecht.</span> <span class="hps">The first</span> <span class="hps">corset</span> <span class="hps">was</span> <span class="hps">sewn</span> <span class="hps">with</span> <span class="hps">my favorite</span> <span class="hps">dotted cotton</span><span class="hps"></span><span>, modifications</span> <span class="hps">in it</span> <span class="hps">lowered</span> <span class="hps">back</span> <span class="hps">line</span><span>,</span> <span class="hps">plastic</span><span class="hps"> bonning </span> <span class="hps">on the back</span> <span class="hps"></span> <span class="hps">and space for</span> <span class="hps">the bust,</span> <span class="hps">which</span> <span class="hps">I did</span> <span class="hps">by</span><span>,</span> <span class="hps">the Regency</span> <span class="hps">corset</span> pattern from<span class="hps"></span> <span class="hps">Jill</span> <span class="hps">Salen</span><span class=""> book. </span></span></div>
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<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class=""> </span></span> </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTw0QDvKY11kzwz3l3xqL2d3SapTPYC96zpTBaBuUv37sBkRFG-SQbnPJme5Igt1TxaPfYNpGYZfKlIYFme1GMUXXKFmW-CyeFau9fgLS0FDkcZQrBkvmuHkeA5EVmn-qPZkGXeL-FWGmt/s1600/IMG_0817.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTw0QDvKY11kzwz3l3xqL2d3SapTPYC96zpTBaBuUv37sBkRFG-SQbnPJme5Igt1TxaPfYNpGYZfKlIYFme1GMUXXKFmW-CyeFau9fgLS0FDkcZQrBkvmuHkeA5EVmn-qPZkGXeL-FWGmt/s320/IMG_0817.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Wstawkę ściągnęłam aby
lepiej leżał dekolt ze względu na mój mały biust czuje się w takim gorsecie
bardziej komfortowo. Powiększyłam także trochę kliny biodrowe gdzie górna
część dokładnie zaczyna się tam gdzie jest talia. Z przodu szeroka brykla przypięta jest bawełnianą tasiemką tym razem na dole. Cały gorset szyłam ręcznie.</div>
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<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">The insert was</span> <span class="hps">pulled</span> <span class="hps">to better</span> <span class="hps">lay</span> <span class="hps">neck</span> <span class="hps">because of my</span> <span class="hps">small</span> <span class="hps">breasts</span> <span class="hps">feel</span> <span class="hps">in such a</span> <span class="hps">corset</span> <span class="hps">more comfortable</span><span>.</span> <span class="hps">Also</span> <span class="hps">I zoomed in</span> <span class="hps">a little</span> <span class="hps">wedges</span> <span class="hps">hip</span> <span class="hps">where the upper</span> <span class="hps">part</span> <span class="hps">begins</span> <span class="hps">exactly</span> <span class="hps">where it is</span> <span class="hps">waist</span><span>.</span> <span class="hps">The front</span> <span class="hps">busk</span> <span class="hps">wide</span> <span class="hps">cotton</span> <span class="hps">ribbon</span> <span class="hps">is</span> <span class="hps">pinned</span> <span class="hps">this time on</span> <span class="hps">the bottom.</span> <span class="hps">The whole</span> <span class="hps">corset</span> <span class="hps">sewed</span> <span class="hps">by hand. </span></span></div>
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<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps"> </span></span> </div>
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Drugi pół gorsecik, który w <i>Przewodniku
dla Dam</i> z 1842 roku, <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>tak określa go
autorka: <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"></i><span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">The other</span> <span class="hps">half</span> <span class="hps">stays</span><span>,</span> <span class="hps">which</span> <span class="hps">in the </span></span><span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps"><i>Manuel des demoiselles</i></span><i><span class="hps"></span></i> <span class="hps">from</span> <span class="hps">1842,</span> <span class="hps">as</span> <span class="hps">the author</span> <span class="hps">describes it ( I think that is Polish translation of E. Celnart book)</span><span class="">: </span></span></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Wiedzieliśmy jaki użytek jest
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ugóry, nie zostawiwszy jak na półtora palca od kliników; trzeba ukroić dwie
listwy, na łokieć długie, a na pól stopy szerokie, z zwężając jest stopniowo,
będą miały na końcu cal szerokości, te listwy nazywają się patki i zastępują
dziurki do sznurowania, patki krzyżują się z tyłu i ściągają gorset , te
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rąbek by uciskał ciało. Brykla nie używa się do takiego gorsetu, tylko kilka
rogów mocnych na jej miejsce. </i></div>
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Pół gorsecik z muzeum w Utrechcie
może pełnił podobną opisaną funkcję, tym bardziej, że ma te same patki
zachodzące na plecach i krzyżujące się i zapinane z przodu. Bardzo długo
męczyłam się zwłaszcza przy wykroju patek bo za każdym razem trzeba było coś
poprawiać zdarzało się że patki za bardzo rozchylały mi się na plecach ale w
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<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">Half</span> <span class="hps">stays</span> <span class="hps">from the museum</span> <span class="hps">in Utrecht</span> <span class="hps">can</span> <span class="hps">fulfill a similar</span> <span class="hps">function as described</span><span>,</span> <span class="hps">the more that</span> <span class="hps">has the same</span> <span class="hps">"tabs</span>" <span class="hps">that occur</span> <span class="hps">on the back and</span> <span class="hps">crossing</span> <span class="hps">and</span> <span class="hps">buttoned at the front</span><span>.</span> <span class="hps">Very</span> <span class="hps">long</span> <span class="hps">I struggled</span> <span class="hps">with</span> <span class="hps">the blank</span> <span class="hps">flaps,</span> <span class="hps">especially</span> <span class="hps">because every time</span> <span class="hps">we had to</span> <span class="hps">fix</span> <span class="hps">something</span> <span class="hps">that</span> <span class="hps">happened</span> <span class="hps">very</span> <span class="hps">parted</span> <span class="hps">strap</span> <span class="hps">me</span> <span class="hps">on the back</span> <span class="hps">but</span> <span class="hps">in the end</span> <span class="hps">it worked. </span></span> </div>
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Pół gorset uszyłam z delikatnej bawełny z malinowe kropeczki
usztywniłam go jedną warstwą cienkiej bawełny, także gorset ma 3 warstwy. Z przodu
są dwie wąskie listewki i to one tylko usztywniają korpus. Dwa kliniki na biust
nie ściągane jak w poprzednim gorsecie (pewnie w następnym egzemplarzu już
będą kliniki ściągane). Ramiączka są przyszyte a nie sznurowane jak w oryginalnym gorsecie. Cały szyty ręcznie i wykonany wg instrukcji <a href="http://kleidungum1800.blogspot.de/2014/05/short-stays-studies-schnurleib-studien.html">Sabine z Kleidung um 1800</a>. Na dniach pozostało mi tylko przyszyć haftki jako zapięcie.</div>
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<span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">Short stays</span><span class="hps"></span> <span class="hps">sewn</span> <span class="hps">from soft cotton</span> <span class="hps">with</span> <span class="hps">raspberry</span> <span class="hps">dots</span> <span class="hps">stiffened</span> <span class="hps">it with one</span> <span class="hps">layer of</span> <span class="hps">thin</span> <span class="hps">cotton</span><span>,</span> <span class="hps">also</span> <span class="hps">bodice</span> <span class="hps">has 3</span> <span class="hps">layers</span><span>.</span> <span class="hps">On the front</span> <span class="hps">are</span> <span class="hps">two narrow</span> <span class="hps">slats</span><span>, and they</span> <span class="hps">only</span> <span class="hps">stiffen the</span> <span class="hps">body</span><span>.</span> <span class="hps">Two</span> <span class="hps">gussets</span> <span class="hps">to</span> <span class="hps">bust</span> <span class="hps">not</span> <span class="hps">tightened</span> <span class="hps">as in the previous</span> <span class="hps">corset</span> <span class="hps atn">(</span><span>probably</span> <span class="hps">in the next</span> <span class="hps">copy</span> <span class="hps">will be</span> <span class="hps"></span> <span class="hps">already</span><span class="hps"></span><span>)</span><span>.</span> <span class="hps">Straps</span> <span class="hps">are sewn on</span> <span class="hps">and</span> <span class="hps">not</span> <span class="hps">laced</span> <span class="hps">corset</span> <span class="hps">as</span> <span class="hps">in the original</span><span>.</span> <span class="hps">All</span> <span class="hps">hand made</span> <span class="hps">and manufactured</span> <span class="hps">according to instructions</span> <span class="hps">from</span> <span class="hps">Sabine great article in her <a href="http://kleidungum1800.blogspot.de/2014/05/short-stays-studies-schnurleib-studien.html">Kleidung</a></span><a href="http://kleidungum1800.blogspot.de/2014/05/short-stays-studies-schnurleib-studien.html"><span class="hps"></span> <span class="hps">um</span> </a><span class="hps"><a href="http://kleidungum1800.blogspot.de/2014/05/short-stays-studies-schnurleib-studien.html">1800</a>.</span> <span class="hps">On the</span> <span class="hps">days</span> <span class="hps">I will finish stays with</span> <span class="hps">only</span> <span class="hps">sew</span> <span class="hps">as</span> <span class="hps">fastening</span> <span class="hps">hooks</span><span class="">. </span></span></div>
<br /><br />
atelierpolonaisehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12221915032674869681noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8315684709486567201.post-55459717200346935562015-06-02T17:58:00.000+02:002015-06-02T18:00:10.005+02:00Śladami Luizy - wystawa w Muzeum w Krokowie. Exhibition in palace in Krokowa - Luisa Footsteps<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<![endif]--><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="line-height: 115%;">Nareszcie
doczekałam się minimalnego wskrzeszenia działalności Luizy von Krockov. W pałacu
krokowskim a dokładnie w jego muzeum trwa wystawa Śladami Luizy. </span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="line-height: 115%;"> </span></span><span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">Finally</span> <span class="hps">I've reached</span> <span class="hps">the minimum</span> <span class="hps">revive the</span> <span class="hps">activities of</span> <span class="hps">Louisa von</span> <span class="hps">Krockow</span>. <span class="hps">The palace</span> <span class="hps">and</span> <span class="hps">exactly</span> <span class="hps">in</span> <span class="hps">his museum</span> <span class="hps">exhibition</span> <span class="hps">takes</span> <span class="hps">the footsteps of</span> <span class="hps">Louise</span><span class="">.</span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5XEfaCoLfLw/VW2z_MfsnMI/AAAAAAAAE2M/d_XsToMNjNQ/s1600/Luiza%2Bvon%2BKrockow%2BAngelica%2Bkaufmann.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5XEfaCoLfLw/VW2z_MfsnMI/AAAAAAAAE2M/d_XsToMNjNQ/s320/Luiza%2Bvon%2BKrockow%2BAngelica%2Bkaufmann.jpg" width="217" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://bbf.dipf.de/cgi-opac/bil.pl?t_direct=x&fullsize=yes&f_IDN=b0015588berl">A. Kaufmann, Portret L. von Krockow, 1793</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: PL; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"> <span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;">Pałac w Krokowej to jeden z najpiękniejszych obecnie zabytków jakie
widziałam – pałac jest po prostu śliczny, ma też zachowany klimat epoki.
Pięknie odrestaurowane ogrody i fosa są ozdobą tego małego pałacyku Luizy. </span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; line-height: 115%;"> </span><span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">Krokowa</span> <span class="hps">Palace</span> <span class="hps">is</span> <span class="hps">currently</span> <span class="hps">one</span> <span class="hps">of the most beautiful</span> <span class="hps">sights</span> <span class="hps">I've ever seen</span> <span class="hps">-</span> <span class="hps">the palace is</span> <span class="hps">simply</span> <span class="hps">beautiful</span>, it also has <span class="hps">preserved the atmosphere of</span> <span class="hps">the era.</span> <span class="hps">Beautifully restored</span> <span class="hps">gardens and</span> <span class="hps">moat</span> <span class="hps">are the pride</span> <span class="hps">of this small</span> <span class="hps">place of</span> <span class="hps">Luisa</span>.</span></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mmpRYAogdZ0/VW22ZomFCPI/AAAAAAAAE2Y/mtPeonAZ8iU/s1600/IMG_1352.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mmpRYAogdZ0/VW22ZomFCPI/AAAAAAAAE2Y/mtPeonAZ8iU/s320/IMG_1352.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Widok na pałac, view the palace from a gardens</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: PL; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eHQC5emnf3o/VW27gF86xsI/AAAAAAAAE2o/iAEeApcMaK0/s1600/IMG_1214.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eHQC5emnf3o/VW27gF86xsI/AAAAAAAAE2o/iAEeApcMaK0/s320/IMG_1214.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;">Część ogrodu, part of gardens</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SCg6hY6FDtw/VW27nNoOs7I/AAAAAAAAE2w/O1IYLD8M5h8/s1600/IMG_1350.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SCg6hY6FDtw/VW27nNoOs7I/AAAAAAAAE2w/O1IYLD8M5h8/s320/IMG_1350.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZpnDle3B5rk/VW27t1zgerI/AAAAAAAAE24/r98ohprEvqU/s1600/IMG_1342.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZpnDle3B5rk/VW27t1zgerI/AAAAAAAAE24/r98ohprEvqU/s320/IMG_1342.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;">W
samym pałacu mieści się hotel, który mimo współczesnych mebli zachował klimat
dawnych czasów. Zachowały się też niektóre zabytki zdobiące niegdyś ten
pałac<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>- przede wszystkim gdański piec
kaflowy oraz pokój gdzie można częściowo prześledzić losy właścicieli pałacu. </span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;"><span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">In the</span> <span class="hps">palace</span> <span class="hps">houses the hotel</span>, <span class="hps">which despite</span> <span class="hps">contemporary (replica) furniture</span> <span class="hps">climate</span> <span class="hps">has preserved</span> <span class="hps">the old days.</span> <span class="hps">There are also</span> <span class="hps">some</span> <span class="hps">monuments</span> <span class="hps">adorn</span> <span class="hps">this palace</span> <span class="hps">once</span> <span class="hps">-</span> <span class="hps">especially</span> <span class="hps">Gdansk</span> <span class="hps">tiled stove</span> <span class="hps">and a room</span> <span class="hps">where you</span> <span class="hps">can be partly</span> <span class="hps">traced</span> <span class="hps">the fate of</span> <span class="hps">the palace owners</span>.</span> </span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: PL; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"></span><span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps"><br /></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-evDNGT0WJBU/VW28EYsrMYI/AAAAAAAAE3I/-oj4CmouDKs/s1600/IMG_1218.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-evDNGT0WJBU/VW28EYsrMYI/AAAAAAAAE3I/-oj4CmouDKs/s320/IMG_1218.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8w2LmtCSNO8/VW28I1_C2tI/AAAAAAAAE3Q/GFCUm2zjQvM/s1600/IMG_1223.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8w2LmtCSNO8/VW28I1_C2tI/AAAAAAAAE3Q/GFCUm2zjQvM/s320/IMG_1223.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kawiarnia, cafe room</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: PL; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cOa93g45Qb4/VW28WWDYmoI/AAAAAAAAE3Y/vAY4ECT0Az0/s1600/IMG_1241.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cOa93g45Qb4/VW28WWDYmoI/AAAAAAAAE3Y/vAY4ECT0Az0/s320/IMG_1241.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;">Gdański piec kaflowy w kawiarni, an old tiled stove</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BpW8r0Ue_Xc/VW28dzWu6OI/AAAAAAAAE3g/hZJrnj71HS4/s1600/IMG_1244.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BpW8r0Ue_Xc/VW28dzWu6OI/AAAAAAAAE3g/hZJrnj71HS4/s320/IMG_1244.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Portret i fragmenty listu J.G. Fichtego, portrait and <span class="short_text" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">excerpt from a letter of J. G Fichte</span></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CCXWD1agHv0/VW28kT2mySI/AAAAAAAAE3o/CQVeIhDsk58/s1600/IMG_1225.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CCXWD1agHv0/VW28kT2mySI/AAAAAAAAE3o/CQVeIhDsk58/s320/IMG_1225.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dama z XVIII wieku wskazuje kierunek zwiedzania, unknown Lady invites to visit another room</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hahZ3BFZNQo/VW28onH6YKI/AAAAAAAAE3w/MG1mEVF6RGw/s1600/IMG_1233.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hahZ3BFZNQo/VW28onH6YKI/AAAAAAAAE3w/MG1mEVF6RGw/s320/IMG_1233.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Luiza von Krockow</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GhcjS9agwQM/VW28sGd4JgI/AAAAAAAAE34/5q_Qeajx3ZI/s1600/IMG_1231.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GhcjS9agwQM/VW28sGd4JgI/AAAAAAAAE34/5q_Qeajx3ZI/s320/IMG_1231.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Następne pokolenia rodziny von Krokow doświadczyły tragedii II wojny światowej; <span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">Next</span> <span class="hps">generation of</span> <span class="hps">the family von</span> <span class="hps">steps</span> <span class="hps">have experienced</span> <span class="hps">the tragedy of</span> <span class="hps">World War II</span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;">O
samej Luizie niestety zachowało się mało zabytków oprócz jej prac literackich i
niektórych dokumentów jak chociażby udział w licytacji, kiedy Luiza zastępowała
swojego męża. Wystawa o Luizie mieści się w budynku obok pałacu. Tam też
odbywał się wernisaż. Na wernisażu zobaczymy przede wszystkim dokumenty świadczące o działalności samej Luizy, jej miniaturowe portrety jeden Angeliki
Kaufmann i jeden anonimowy, przedstawiającą Luizę w starszym wieku w wieńcu laurowym. </span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;"><span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">About the</span> <span class="hps">same</span> <span class="hps">Luisa</span>, unfortunately, <span class="hps">little</span> <span class="hps">monuments</span> <span class="hps">have been preserved</span> <span class="hps">in addition to</span> <span class="hps">her</span> <span class="hps">literary works</span> <span class="hps">and</span> <span class="hps">certain documents</span> <span class="hps">as</span> <span class="hps">even</span> <span class="hps">participated</span> <span class="hps">in the bidding</span>, <span class="hps">when</span> <span class="hps">Luiza</span> <span class="hps">substitute for</span> <span class="hps">her husband.</span> <span class="hps">Exhibition</span> <span class="hps">about Luisa</span> <span class="hps">is located in a</span> <span class="hps">building next to</span> <span class="hps">the palace.</span> <span class="hps">There he</span> <span class="hps">held</span> <span class="hps">a vernissage</span>. <span class="hps">At the opening</span> <span class="hps">we see</span> <span class="hps">first of all</span> <span class="hps">documentary evidence of the</span> <span class="hps">activity</span> <span class="hps">itself</span> <span class="hps">Luisa</span>, <span class="hps">her</span> <span class="hps">miniature</span> <span class="hps">portraits of</span> <span class="hps">one</span> <span class="hps">of Angelica</span> <span class="hps">Kaufmann,</span> <span class="hps">and</span> <span class="hps">one</span> <span class="hps">anonymous</span>, <span class="hps">showing</span> <span class="hps">Luiza</span> <span class="hps">elderly</span> <span class="hps">in</span> <span class="hps">a laurel wreath with her first husband</span><span class="">.</span></span> </span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="line-height: 115%;">Widoki pałacu
i ogrodu, który tworzyła Luiza i był słynny na całą ówczesną Europę. Znajdziemy
także przedruki jej prac literackich – Luiza jest autorką kilku publikacji w
tym podręcznika o edukacji dziewcząt, co w pisuje się w ówczesny kanon edukacji
oświeceniowej: <i>Padagogishen Ideen</i> (Idee
Pedagogiczne) wydane w 1793, <a href="http://digitale.bibliothek.uni-halle.de/vd18/content/titleinfo/8435268"><i>Briefe einerVaterlandsfreundinn an ihre Lieblinge</i></a> (Listy przyjaciółki ojczyzny), 1794, <a href="http://digitale.bibliothek.uni-halle.de/vd18/content/pageview/2319372"><i>Wohlthätige Vorschläge zur Erzierhung hülfloserMädchens alle Stände </i></a>(Dobroczynne rady ku wychowaniu bezradnych panien wszelkiego
stanu) 1797, <a href="http://gdz.sub.uni-goettingen.de/dms/load/img/?PPN=PPN718560876&DMDID=DMDLOG_0000">Rath und That zu einem gutemWerke: Ein Toilettengeschenk für Damen </a>(Rada i czyn ku dobremu uczynkowi –
podarek dla Dam), 1800.</span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="line-height: 115%;"><span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">The views</span> <span class="hps">of the palace</span> <span class="hps">and</span> <span class="hps">garden that</span> <span class="hps">formed</span> <span class="hps">Luiza</span> <span class="hps">and</span> <span class="hps">was</span> <span class="hps">famous throughout the entire</span> <span class="hps">Europe at this time</span>. <span class="hps">We also find</span> <span class="hps">reprints of</span> <span class="hps">her</span> <span class="hps">literary works</span> <span class="hps">-</span> <span class="hps">Luiza</span> <span class="hps">is the author</span> <span class="hps">of several publications</span> <span class="hps">including</span> <span class="hps">a manual on</span> <span class="hps">the education of girls</span>, which <span class="hps">then</span> <span class="hps">writes</span> <span class="hps">the</span> <span class="hps">education</span> <span class="hps">canon</span> <span class="hps">of the Enlightenment</span>: <span class="hps">Padagogishen</span> <span class="hps">Ideen</span> <span class="hps atn">(</span>Ideas <span class="hps">Pedagogical</span>) issued <span class="hps">in</span> <span class="hps">1793</span> <span class="hps">einerVaterlandsfreundinn</span> <span class="hps">Briefe</span> <span class="hps">an</span> <span class="hps">ihre</span> <span class="hps">Lieblinge</span> <span class="hps">(Letters</span> <span class="hps">friend</span> <span class="hps">homeland</span>) <span class="hps">1794</span> <span class="hps">Wohlthätige</span> <span class="hps">Vorschläge</span> <span class="hps">zur</span> <span class="hps">Erzierhung</span> <span class="hps">hülfloserMädchens</span> <span class="hps">alle</span> <span class="hps">Stände</span> <span class="hps atn">(</span>Charitable <span class="hps">council</span> <span class="hps">to</span> <span class="hps">the education of</span> <span class="hps">helpless</span> <span class="hps">maidens</span> <span class="hps">of any</span> <span class="hps">state</span>) <span class="hps">1797</span> <span class="hps">Rath</span> <span class="hps">und</span> <span class="hps">zu</span> <span class="hps">einem</span> <span class="hps">That</span> <span class="hps">gutemWerke</span>: <span class="hps">Ein</span> <span class="hps">Toilettengeschenk</span> <span class="hps">für</span> <span class="hps">Damen</span> <span class="hps">(Council and</span> <span class="hps">act</span> <span class="hps">together for good</span> <span class="hps">uczynkowi</span> <span class="hps">-</span> <span class="hps">a gift</span> <span class="hps">for</span> <span class="hps">Dam</span>) <span class="hps">1800</span><span class="">.</span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;"><span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class=""> </span></span> </span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="line-height: 115%;">Z Luizą związanych było kilka czołowych postaci </span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; line-height: 115%;"></span><span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;">końca XVIII wieku związane z kulturą: ilustracje do książek
krokowskiej autorki wykonywał sam Daniel Chodowiecki i jego prace także możemy
tam zobaczyć w tym portrety jego córki Suzette Henry jak i nauczyciela dzieci
Luizy znanego filozofa Johanna Gotlieba Fichtego i Augusta von Lehndorfa,
sąsiada i przyjaciela Luizy, właściciela innego znanego majątku, którym
zachwycał się Ignacy Krasicki – <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sztynort">Sztynortu</a>. W gablotkach można zobaczyć jak
wyglądały przedmioty do nauki w tym są też ławki i stoliki do pisania.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">With</span> <span class="hps">Louise</span> <span class="hps">was linked to</span> <span class="hps">several</span> <span class="hps">leading figures</span><span class="hps"> the late eighteenth century</span> <span class="hps">related to culture</span>: <span class="hps">illustrations for Luisa's books</span> <span class="hps"></span> <span class="hps">doing</span> <span class="hps">the same</span> <span class="hps">author</span> <span class="hps">Daniel</span> <span class="hps">Chodowiecki</span> <span class="hps">and</span> <span class="hps">his</span> <span class="hps">work</span> <span class="hps">there</span> <span class="hps">also</span> <span class="hps">can</span> <span class="hps">be seen in</span> <span class="hps">the</span> <span class="hps">portraits of his</span> <span class="hps">daughter</span> <span class="hps">Suzette</span> <span class="hps">Henry</span> <span class="hps">and</span> <span class="hps">Luisa</span> <span class="hps">children's teacher</span> <span class="hps">well-known</span> <span class="hps">philosopher</span> <span class="hps">Johann</span> <span class="hps">Gotlieb</span> <span class="hps">Fichte</span> <span class="hps">and</span> <span class="hps">August von</span> <span class="hps">Lehndorf</span>, <span class="hps">a neighbor</span> <span class="hps">and friend of</span> <span class="hps">Luisa</span>, <span class="hps">owner of the other</span> <span class="hps">known</span> <span class="hps">assets that they</span> <span class="hps">admired</span> <span class="hps">Ignacy Krasicki</span> <span class="hps">-</span> <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sztynort"><span class="hps">Sztynort (Steinort)</span></a>. <span class="hps">In</span> <span class="hps">the showcases</span> <span class="hps">you can see</span> <span class="hps">objects</span> <span class="hps">as they looked</span> <span class="hps">to</span> <span class="hps">science</span> <span class="hps">in this are</span> <span class="hps">also</span> <span class="hps">benches and</span> <span class="hps">tables</span> <span class="hps">for writing</span><span class="">.</span></span> </span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RCMfPz5gOPs/VW3D2BEdvjI/AAAAAAAAE4Q/vO9OYyK5LH8/s1600/blog1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="256" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RCMfPz5gOPs/VW3D2BEdvjI/AAAAAAAAE4Q/vO9OYyK5LH8/s320/blog1.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;"><a href="http://digitale.bibliothek.uni-halle.de/vd18/content/titleinfo/1654493">Ilustracje D. Chodowieckiego do </a></span><span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;"><a href="http://digitale.bibliothek.uni-halle.de/vd18/content/titleinfo/1654493"><i>Wohlthätige Vorschläge ..., 1797</i></a></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;">Drugą
część wystawy z kolei stanowią prace i kolekcja Anny Nurzyńskiej, która także
wykonała "rekonstrukcję” stroju Luizy z jej drugiego „starszego" portretu. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">The second</span> <span class="hps">part of the exhibition</span>, in turn, <span class="hps">represent</span> <span class="hps">the work</span> <span class="hps">and the collection</span> <span class="hps">of Anna</span> <span class="hps">Nurzyńska</span><span class="">,</span> <span class="hps">who also</span> <span class="hps">performed</span> <span class="hps">the "reconstruction</span>" <span class="hps">Luisa</span> <span class="hps">dress</span> <span class="hps">with</span> <span class="hps">her</span> <span class="hps atn">other "</span><span class="">senior"</span> <span class="hps">portrait.</span></span> </span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5bpK-xzqaho/VW3FqPzhf9I/AAAAAAAAE4c/QwKHUCVEI7g/s1600/IMG_1270.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5bpK-xzqaho/VW3FqPzhf9I/AAAAAAAAE4c/QwKHUCVEI7g/s320/IMG_1270.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;">Autorka stroju Pani Anna Nurzyńska i kurator wystawy Pani Grażyna Patryn obok suknia Luizy</span></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Pjntdm9xOZY/VW3GMs2OUEI/AAAAAAAAE4k/PZfBklge4a8/s1600/IMG_1330.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Pjntdm9xOZY/VW3GMs2OUEI/AAAAAAAAE4k/PZfBklge4a8/s320/IMG_1330.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;">Tył sukni</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;">Niestety nie rozumiem merytoryczności tej części wystawy. Jak ma się kolekcja
fragmentów tkanin do działalności Luizy? Jeśli organizatorom chciało się pokazać
jak Luiza się ubierała i jaki był kanon ówczesnej mody można było oprzeć się o <a href="http://digital.ub.uni-duesseldorf.de/urn/urn:nbn:de:hbz:061:1-29000"><i>Journal des Luxus und der Moden</i></a>, którego oryginały znajdują się w gdańskiej
bibliotece PAN i gdzie doczepione są fragmenty ówczesnych tkanin. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">Unfortunately,</span> <span class="hps">I do not understand</span> <span class="hps">of</span> <span class="hps">this part of the</span> <span class="hps">exhibition.</span> <span class="hps">How does</span> <span class="hps">a collection of</span> <span class="hps">pieces of</span> <span class="hps">fabric</span> <span class="hps">to connect with the activities of</span> <span class="hps">Luisa</span>? <span class="hps">If</span> <span class="hps">the organizers</span> <span class="hps">wanted to</span> <span class="hps">show</span> <span class="hps">how</span> <span class="hps">Luiza</span> <span class="hps"> dressed</span> <span class="hps">and what was</span> <span class="hps">canon of</span> <span class="hps">contemporary</span> <span class="hps">fashion</span> <span class="hps">they could</span> <span class="hps">lean on the</span> <span class="hps">Journal des</span> <span class="hps">Luxus</span> <span class="hps">und</span> <span class="hps">der</span> <span class="hps">Moden</span>, whose <span class="hps">originals</span> <span class="hps">are in</span> <span class="hps">the Gdansk</span> <span class="hps">Academy of Sciences</span> <span class="hps">and</span> <span class="hps">a library</span> <span class="hps">where</span> <span class="hps">fragments are</span> <span class="hps">attached</span> <span class="hps">contemporary</span> <span class="hps">fabrics.</span></span> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;">Tkaniny z
kolekcji pochodzą z połowy XVIII wieku i raczej nawiązują do patrycjuszowskich
wzorców niż do post rewolucyjnego widzenia świata zwłaszcza jeśli bierze się pod
uwagę prawa antyzbytkowe, które były powszechnie obowiązujące, nie mówiąc już o
modzie pruskiej tego okresu. Nie przemawia do mnie także rekonstrukcja stroju –
autorka przedstawiła strój Luizy jako <i>robe a la Turque</i> inaczej nazywaną jako
<i>lewitkę</i>. Jedynymi trafnymi wydają się szkice postaci dzieci Luizy w strojach. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">Textiles</span> <span class="hps">from the collection</span> <span class="hps atn">from the mid-</span>eighteenth century <span class="hps">and rather</span> <span class="hps">refer to the</span> <span class="hps">patrician</span> <span class="hps">patterns</span> <span class="hps">than</span> <span class="hps">to</span> <span class="hps">post</span> <span class="hps">a revolutionary</span> <span class="hps">view of the world</span> <span class="hps">especially if you</span> <span class="hps">take into</span> <span class="hps">account the sumtuary rights</span> <span class="hps">that were</span> <span class="hps">universally applicable</span>, <span class="hps">not to mention</span> <span class="hps">the Prussian</span> <span class="hps">fashion</span> <span class="hps">of the period.</span> <span class="hps">It does not appeal to</span> <span class="hps">me</span> <span class="hps">as</span> <span class="hps">reconstruction</span> <span class="hps">dress</span> <span class="hps">-</span> <span class="hps">she presents</span> <span class="hps">dress</span> <span class="hps"></span></span></span><span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps"><span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">Luisa</span> <span class="hps">as </span></span></span><i>robe</i></span><i> <span class="hps"></span> <span class="hps">a la</span> <span class="hps">Turque</span></i> <span class="hps">or Levite dress</span>. <span class="hps">The only</span> <span class="hps">'relevant</span> <span class="hps">form of</span> <span class="hps">sketches</span> <span class="hps">seem</span> <span class="hps">Luisa</span> <span class="hps">children</span> <span class="hps">in costumes.</span></span> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;">Wystawa jest ciekawie zrobiona i zamierzam jeszcze raz się na nią wybrać także dla samego pałacu. Więcej o rodzinie von Krockow przeczytać można <a href="http://leszek-moje-reflesje-blog-onet.blogspot.com/2012/10/dziadkowie-z-wehrmactu-2.html">tu</a> lub sięgnąć do książki Krzysztofa Wójcickiego <a href="http://antykwariat.tezeusz.pl/240352,wojcicki-krzysztof-rozmowy-z-grafem-albrechtem-von-krockow.html"><i>Rozmowy z Grafem Alberchtem von Krockow</i></a><a href="http://antykwariat.tezeusz.pl/240352,wojcicki-krzysztof-rozmowy-z-grafem-albrechtem-von-krockow.html"> <i>- Serce ponad wszytsko</i></a>. Tak przy okazji podziwiania ogrodu i robienia zdjęć stanął za mną pewien Pan, który nie chcąc przeszkadzać w robieni zdjęć zaczął się mi przypatrywać - okazało się po tym jak się przedstawił, że jest pra pra ..itd wnukiem Luizy. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times,"Times New Roman",serif;"><span class="" id="result_box" lang="en"><span class="hps">The exhibition is</span> <span class="hps">interestingly</span> <span class="hps">done</span> <span class="hps">and I'm going</span> <span class="hps">again</span> <span class="hps">at her</span> <span class="hps">also be chosen for</span> <span class="hps">the</span> <span class="hps">palace.</span> <span class="hps">More</span> <span class="hps">about</span> <span class="hps">the family</span> <span class="hps">von</span> <span class="hps">Krockow</span> <span class="hps">can be read</span> <a href="http://leszek-moje-reflesje-blog-onet.blogspot.com/2012/10/dziadkowie-z-wehrmactu-2.html"><span class="hps">here</span></a> (only in Polish) <span class="hps">or</span> <span class="hps">go back to the</span> <span class="hps">book</span><a href="http://antykwariat.tezeusz.pl/240352,wojcicki-krzysztof-rozmowy-z-grafem-albrechtem-von-krockow.html"> <span class="hps">Conversations with</span> <span class="hps">Krzysztof</span> <span class="hps">Wojcicki</span> <span class="hps">Alberchtem</span> <span class="hps">Graf</span> <span class="hps">von</span> <span class="hps">Krockow</span> <span class="hps">- Heart</span> <span class="hps">over</span> <span class="hps">all</span></a>. <span class="hps">By the way,</span> <span class="hps">enjoy the</span> <span class="hps">garden and</span> <span class="hps">taking pictures</span> <span class="hps">stood</span> <span class="hps">behind me</span> <span class="hps">a</span> <span class="hps">man who</span> <span class="hps">did not want to</span> <span class="hps">interfere with</span> <span class="hps">taking pictures</span> <span class="hps">began to</span> <span class="hps">eye of</span> <span class="hps">me</span> <span class="hps">- it turned out</span> <span class="hps">after he</span> <span class="hps">submitted that</span> <span class="hps">..itd</span> <span class="hps">is the</span> <span class="hps">great-great</span> <span class="hps">grandson of</span> <span class="hps">Louise</span><span class="">.</span></span> </span></div>
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