Corset from the Chopin time or regency corset. Part 1.

My new project is about XIX th century. I inspired by the Chopin times and his music. I choose the beautiful embroidery corset from the Metropolitan Museum of Art. My dress is from Hermitage collection from Sankt - Petersburg but now I must to complete undergarment for this time.

Some reflections about the corset. I decided that I will to sew some corset's. 19th century was very creative for the shape and method building for corstery than the 18 th century or 17th century. It is very interesting how the shape changes during the 19th century.

My sketches with the shape, helped to form a pattern.

Choosing material and color for embroidery.

My pattern. I based on from the article in the Costume about maternity corsets.

First step - embroidering bust gusset.

Bargello sweet bag not fished yet. Step by step.

I finished bargello bag but I could not to finish yet. Here is my step by step about these bag.

Linen Canvas
Embroidery floss : DMC 989, 3722, 581; Italian silk floss FILO FLOSSE ( Milano)
Emroidery technics: bargello stitch, brick stitch with 3 floss, needle for embroidery.
Measure: 15 cm x 15 cm.

Here is right side and wrong side.

The lining of the bag - I choose silk linning. Remeber: you must put down by right side!

I used back stitch for sewing lining and bag.

Turn the bag and press with the iron and modelled it.

For this a used excellent tutorial about "embroidered braids" from Mediewal Silkwork

Finishes touches: hand made braids as finger loop, silver pomanders I find on the big jewellery fair. Shells (Cypraeidae Rafinesque) are from small boutique from Sopot. I can't to get the beozar*. It is difficult and rare stone from animal, now to get only in China.

* Illustration of beozar is from Conrad Gesner Conradi Gesner's Historia Animalium 1557 - 1558
I have problems with the finishing bag, I don't know how to make a whole for braids - how technic I must use for this?

Some my costume drawings, part 3

Here is my next part of my costume drawings but on the black paper and very heavy colours. I inspired by chinese fashion illustration and the paintings works by Ting Shao Kuang*. I took about him during my lectures in Costume Qolloquium II 2010

* Ting Shao Kuang (Ding Shaoguang). Born in 1939 in Chengdu, he studied in the Central Academy of Fine Arts in Peking ( 1955 – 1957) and then entered the Central Institute of Fine Arts, graduating in 1962. Being sent to Yunnan, he became fascinated with the beautiful views of its Xishuanbanna region with the unique ethnic costumes of women and of the folk traditions and he started to combine in his paintings the old art of mural painting (frescoes) and sculpture, which he learned travelling to the Mogao Grottoes in Dunhuang, with the modern Western technics. For some years Ting Shao Kuang taught the Chinese painting, print- making and Western and Chinese Fine Art History in Yunnan Art Institute and from 1980 he setlled in the United States. He taught zhongcai and traditional Chinese painting in United States, Asia and Europe. In 1993 on the order of United Nations he painted two famous paintings The Light of the Human Rights and the Mother’s Love, which are known from the reproductions spread by UNESCO.