Round gown in Polish art collections

Round gowns in Polish art collection has not been anywhere so far examined. This can be difficult because of the large loss of works of art during the war, but it's what's survived - it can give an interesting view how the outfit was taken when the country which was at one time oppressed political conflicts. Because the costumes from the era survived little help in this can be miniature portraits, which show the outfit with great care. Mainly I inspired for this dress a portrait of a feamous Lady  from Krockow : Louise von Krockow (1749 - 1803).  

Louise, the wife of Joachim Heinrich Reinhold von Krockow, was one of the unconventional characters who for centuries lived Krokow lands. Endowed with extraordinary beauty and brilliant mind countess, in the absence of her husband managed the goods from Krockow. (...) Louise enjoyed considerable fame at the same time, which confirms the fact of receipt of King Frederick the Great claimed the men's grain trade law. (...) Password female emancipation was not foreign to her anyway. Endowed with a strong dose of wit, intelligence and artistic sense, shone in the circles of intellectuals and artists. It is worth mentioning, inter alia, her friendship with Immanuel Kant, the famous philosopher wykładającym at the University of Königsberg.(...) Both were at times philosophical debates and intimate conversation that inspired the philosopher to the hard intellectual work, and Louise motivated to further philosophical inquiry. The result was a book published in Berlin about the education of girls (Pädagogische Ideen, ed. 1793)*

Portrait fo Louise von Krockow by Angelica Kaufmann from Pädagogische Ideen, 1793

In this portrait Lousie wearing (I think) similarly dress (with combine a riding dress with fulness chemisette) as from dress of Tidens Tøj.

Portrait of a young woman by J.Georges  Baltz, c. 1800 © Cyfrowe Muzeum Narodowe

 A young woman wearing white muslin dress with black sash and gray - blue shawl. 

Portrait of young woman by unknown artist, 1799 - 1800, © Cyfrowe Muzeum Narodowe

 A beautiful black hair with turban is a classical example for regency fashion.

Portrait a young woman in white by unknown artist, 1790 © Cyfrowe Muzeum Narodowe

 Portrait is similar to Louise von Krockow but this lady is so young ( it seems) 

Potrait of woman in blue shawl (not fichu as described in web page) by  Edme Quenedey, 1797 © Cyfrowe Muzeum Narodowe 

 She wearing blue turban and white dress (round gown?) 

* My translation of these text are from here but it is only Polish. About the  Krockow residency you can see here and here .

Petticoat for round dress is finish

Tomorrow I finish high waist petticoat. All is hand made. It was very simple to modelled pattren and sewing it. I used some big scraps of cotton and sewing together with new (for me) mixed stitched - running stitch with back stitch. Here helped me post from Kleidung um 1800.  The back of the petticoat is tied to  cotton ribbons. The shoulder straps that are long in power depending on the needs lengthen or shorten them. The skirt has 5 tucks. It is very simple, classic and comfortable undress. 

Running and back stitched

Skirt and tucks

Waist and composition of pleats in back

 

 

Back: open and pleats

Detail of tied cotton ribbon (back)

Petticoat front

Petticoat back

Thank you !

 I am a nice surprise because my blog was annauced by Sabine from Kleidung um 1800 in followed award: 

I never thought that my blog can be rewarded in any way-for me it is more important that motivates the next projects and describe them on the blog. Thank you for all my followers !

Rules for this award:

1. Add the award icon to your blog!

2. Link to your nominater to say „thank you“

3. Nominate 5 blogger with less than 200 follower. 

My nominated blogs are:

1. It's all in the details - her 1812 sheer dress is so beautiful with the green corselet. 

2. Serendipitous Stitchery - her regency creations are beautifull and very inspiring, I like her accuracy in sewing costumes.

3. Muzealne Mody - this blog is a Polish man who writes about the history of fashion and his article are  comparative analyzes between old and contemporary fashion, which is very interesting for people who interested by in art history and fashion. 

4. Before the Automobile - a blog a very talented seemstres, she created  beautiful creations and has very useful instructions for historical sewing. 

5. Food History Jottings - if you like the food and its history this blog is for you, many interesting informations about culture of cooking from recipes to forgotten kitchen utensils.

 

Petitcoat for Round Gown

I never see any extant petitcoat for the chemise dress or round gown dated  late 18th century. Maybe it was sewn directly to the top of the dress? I find the high waist petticoat with shoulder straps and  has decided to sew these fashion after reading interesting post  from blog Two Nerdy History Girls. But I don't know it is extant petticoat or not and which musem is located or maybe is in private collection. 

Petticoat © Oregon Regency Society

Another petticoat from a Warsaw National Museum from the fashion catalog. This petticoat has a bodice and  was made ​​of Indian cotton gauze beautifully embroidered with white work. The petticoat dating from late 18th century or early 19th century. Now is very distroyed but still retained the shape, and it is possible to restore. 

In catalogue we can read about: 

The high - waisted chemise made of white Indian cotton gauze. The bodice is cut in four gored pieces [ I can see 4 gore, for me it is 3 gore two for the sides and one is triangular in the middle front bodice?]; it has a low - cut square neckline and narrow shoulders straps. The gored skir is trimmed at the hem with a pinked ruche of white silk satin. The gores of the bodice and skirt are emphaised with embroiderd floral spays. The front bodice and the skirt along the hem are embroidered with large floral motifs. 

© Fashionable World of the 18th century, Ewa Orlinska - Mianowska, MNW

 Chemise with no alterations and never exhibited.
I decided to sew two petticoats one with the bodice and one without. The bodice of round gown has a lining and I do not need a bodice petticoat but only with the straps.

1790 corset from Jill Salen's book

Yesterday I finished one of the two corset. Here is transitional corset from Jill Salen's book. It is my interpretation of this type of corset from late 18th century and the beginning of the 19th century. Corset was sewn entirely by hand. I have made a few changes here.
The top layer is white linen and next two layers is white cotton and cotton canvas (inside) and the linnins is beige cotton. I wanted to used some scraps. It was completely hand stitched with silk and cotton white thread. For lacing holes I used twisted thread. Bonnig has always been a problem - I used bamboo stick. My alterations is I changed the type of schoulder straples - It was sewing by hand without two lacing holes in front and I wanted corset with binding. I cannot understand how working non bias cutting tape binding on the edge of corset, so I must used bias cut tape. Jill Salen and Linda Baumgarten in her book Costume close -up both mentioned that in 18th century not exsiting yet bias cut. Corset will be wearing with the round gown and I wanted to sewing round gown from Tidens Tøj collection with a petticoat.

Front


Back

15th century bra discovered in Austria

Amazing information about the discovery of 15 century bra in Austria.
I think it changes the stories of the discovery of the same dress and bra stories. Whole story you can read on University of Innsbruck

W Austrii dokonano szczególnego odkrycia, a mianowicie znaleziono 4 staniki, które zostały znalezione w austriackim zamku datowane są na 15 wiek, co oznacza, że ten ubiór pojawił się 500 lat wcześniej niż dotychczas sądzono. Odkrycia dokonała archeolog z Uniwersytetu w Innsbruku - Beatriz Nutz. Więcej

Photo © Institute for Archaeologies and Beatrix Nutz

1790 corset from Norah Waugh Corsets & Crinolines

I have some new costumes plans. A few weeks ago I inspired of one of the best blogs about sewing costumes - Before the Automobile. I started to sew my first 18th century corset. It is my exercise sewing" corset. For me construction and sewing corset is not easy but it will be pleasure when the whole corset I can wearing.
Wakacje sprzyjają szyciu i rysowaniu. Nowe plany śmigają jak szybowce i nie wiadomo za które się wziąć. Na początek jak zwykle bielizna, do której zaliczam też gorsety. Zaczynam od projektu gorsetu 1790 roku z książki Nory Waugh Corsets & Crinolines. Konstrukcja i szycie ręczne bardzo męczące ale za to jest możliwość poznawania technik szycia i konstrukcji.

I' m an author ...

Today, I got my copy of the East Asian Studies of Gdansk University. Appeared in it because my article From Ritual to the scene. Dance in Yunnan - its past and present on the history of dance in Yunnan and related my experience of Chinese dance.

Dziś, dostałam swój egzemplarz autorski Gdańskie Studia Azji Wschodniej (Uniwersytet Gdański). Ukazał się bowiem w nim mój artykuł Od rytuału do sceny. Taniec w Yunnanie – jego przeszłość i współczesność na temat historii tańca w Yunnanie i związanych z tym moich chińskich doświadczeń tanecznych.

Once again come to home

My big break was related to my trip to Warsaw. But as promised I'm coming symposium in Rothenfels. Symposium was a sucessful dance meeting. We had lectures and practical sessions of the dances which were mentioned in the lectures. We have also same performances and for to finish the symposium took place the ball with historical costumes.
For me was very interesting the lecture of Carolyn Marsh about Polonaise - The Elusive Baroque Polonaise. Hubert Hazebroucq and his lecture - French Six Dances in Germany: An instruction by Johann Georg Pasch was very inspirational for me for his research method. For the evening classes (practise) was interesting Budapest, Cairo, Peking - unterwegs mit Dubreil and Delpech.

I'm tired ...

Hello, my Readers. I just come back to home. I was in Rothenfelts Symposium and I was very busy. I spent interesting time with wonderful peoples, which I met during my trip. I will writing yet about my impressions from Rothenfelts, about dancing and costumes off course.

1930

copyright by Museum of Emigration

It 's me as a wolunteer during the Day of Emigrant orginised by Museum of Emigration in Gdynia. Im wearing clothes which I bought in sceond hand in style 1930. City of Gdynia was build after the First World War, it is the newest city and a port. Town is build with the Art Deco and modernist style architecture so my outfit refers to the history of the city.
I like this outfit beacuse this costume even though it was not sewn by me. Only my shoes were bought for the occasion. My hat I made myself and think about the remodeling. Of course I think about to I am thinking of using some clothes from this period - is will be very inspirational for me. For complete Im wearing (but not have on the picture) small hand bag and a gloves. Colors of my outfit is blue, white, gray and brown - colours refer to the see theme. More photos you can see here.