Lost photography

© Costume Colloquium

I found a picture of me during my lecture in Florence in 2010. I'm wearing Peacock costume from Yunnan. I have only one photo after (lecture) you can see here. 


Znalazłam jedyną fotografię podczas wykładu we Florencji, na wykładzie byłam ubrana w strój pawia z Yunnanu, który stanowił temat referatu. Jedyne moje zdjęcie jakiej miałam do tej pory była fotografia wykonana tuż po występie. 

Sleeveless spencer is finished

 

Spencer sewn entirely by hand, made from silk. Pattern made ​​by me on the basis of extant spencer jacket from Met Museum 

I made ​​a few change only in front I want to have a rounded neckline. Originnally spencer was not lined but I decided to add some scraps as a lining. 

 

Inside: lining

Collar lining

Very interesting for research is post from A Frolic trough Time

These garment is very comfortable and I want to make a few other interesting bodices but from Polish museum collection for exaple thise one: 

On the left red bodice from MN in Krakow, dated 1803, picture is from the catalog Za modą przez wieki, authors Beata Biedrońska - Słota & Joanna Kowalska, on the right Sarah Trumbull with a Spaniel (1802) by  American artist John Trumbull. 


Skończyłam stanik - spencerek bez rękawów, szyty w całości ręcznie z jedwabiu w srebrzyste kwiaty. Wykrój modelowałam sama na podstawie zachowanego egzemplarza w Met Museum. Dokonałam tylko nie wielkich zmian w podkroju dekoltu oraz dodałam podszewkę z różnych skrawków materiałów - często stosowany zabieg aby nie wyrzucać resztek materiału. Przy szyciu pomocnym okazał się post ( linki w wersji angielskiej) z A Frolic trough Time, na temat spencerków bez rękawów. 
W kolejce czeka do uszycia kolejny stanik tym razem z Muzeum Narodowego w Krakowie.

Books and sleevless spencer. Książki i spencerki

I was busy and working on my some lectures about Gottfried Taubert and off course sewwing my 18th century silk petticoat and early 19th century sleeveless spencer from navy blue color silk.

Now, a few words about my new books. For me most interesting is Lady Stratagem which included patterns for stays, hats, and others important thing for a Lady. The second book is wrote in Polish - Przewodnik dla Dam czyli rady dla Płci Pięknej, beautifully reprinted. These editon is form 1842 in Warsaw.
Whole book is available online here.
Polish book is almost the same information as the lady Stratagem about the specific as Dentifrice Powder of M. Cadet de Gassicourt. 

The content of the Polish book for a  young lady's  and hausewifes advice regarding health, beauty, economy, are there ways to get rid of stains on her dress, which dress to choose for a dinner or a ball. Here you can find some informations how to made a corset, the author lists the different types of corsets. 

Next after sewing round gown  I decided to make a few costumes from the scraps left over from other sewing costumes. My choose is sleeveless spencer from Met Museum. 

Unfinisched spencer

Moi czytelnicy proszą mnie o to abym znów pisała także po polsku, będę się starać o tym nie zapominać! W tej chwili zajęta jestem czytaniem nowych książek. Jedną z nich jest moja ulubiona jedyna bodajże książka w języku polskim na temat higieny, czystości i mody ( w tym szycia) z czasów epoki Romantyzmu a jak przypuszczam sięgać może czasów wcześniejszych czyli początków XIX wieku. Autor jest anonimowy raz występuje jako mężczyzna a raz jako kobieta. Wiele z porad można spotkać w innych czasopismach z tego okresu zwłaszcza francuskich, wydanych na nowo w zbiorze The Lady Stratagem. Polecam te dwie książki jako pomocne materiały dla badań nad ubiorem tamtych czasów ale też i innych dziedzin życia jak wymienionych wcześniej higieny czy szycia gorsetów. Wzmianka o gorsetach sugeruje ze jednak pisze ja kobieta, gdyż zna się doskonale na rodzajach materiałów z których szyło się gorsety jak również wymienia rożne ich gatunki, po dzienne i tzw. leniuszki, noszone w domu dla wygody. Wszystkie linki podaję w tekście angielskim. 

Po uszyciu muślinowej sukni z Muzeum w Kopenhadze, zabieram się za szycie spencerków ponieważ chcę pozbyć się dużych skrawków materiałów których szkoda mi wyrzucać. Mała ilość materiału co zawsze stanowi problem, w przypadku staników - spencerków sprawdza się. Na wzór wybrałam jeden model z kolekcji Met Museum ale w głowie mam już kilka pomysłów na uszycie spencerka z Muzeum Narodowego w Krakowie oraz z MN z Warszawy.  

Round gown is finish

 

Two days ago I finish my round gown. It was my first late 18th century (early 19th century). Sewing dress was not very difficult but require skill. Pattern is from Tidens Tøj. Because I have not seen a dress from the inside I used the construction from my research in National Museum in Warsaw. It was very helpful expecially for the seems.  

Dress sewn hand made from cotton batiste. I used the cotton thread.

Construction:

First I made a "base" for the bodice  dress. It sewn from cotton, I used the TT pattern. Then I started modeling back pleats with batiste. I sewed them to the "base" with  a very tiny running stitch. The same is done with the front as the pattern show. Next step was the sleeves. I made a few changes: the first is my sleeves are lined with white cotton, sewing with back stitch and running stitch (very tiny), the second change is I remove side whole for the pocket. The front bodice is was very easy to sewing, I pleated material and sewed with  tiny back stitch and then connect togetcher and sewed to the back of bodice. Skirt of the dress was modelled with some pleats as in pattern and next step was difficult I sewed front bodice to the skirt. Then I made a "tunnel" for a ribbon wchih regulate the waist at front dress. 

Front bodice 

Front

Back

Detail front

Detail back

inside front construction detail

inside construction

sleeve seam

inside detail back

construction of "tunnel" for ribbon waist in front

Round gown in Polish art collections

Round gowns in Polish art collection has not been anywhere so far examined. This can be difficult because of the large loss of works of art during the war, but it's what's survived - it can give an interesting view how the outfit was taken when the country which was at one time oppressed political conflicts. Because the costumes from the era survived little help in this can be miniature portraits, which show the outfit with great care. Mainly I inspired for this dress a portrait of a feamous Lady  from Krockow : Louise von Krockow (1749 - 1803).  

Louise, the wife of Joachim Heinrich Reinhold von Krockow, was one of the unconventional characters who for centuries lived Krokow lands. Endowed with extraordinary beauty and brilliant mind countess, in the absence of her husband managed the goods from Krockow. (...) Louise enjoyed considerable fame at the same time, which confirms the fact of receipt of King Frederick the Great claimed the men's grain trade law. (...) Password female emancipation was not foreign to her anyway. Endowed with a strong dose of wit, intelligence and artistic sense, shone in the circles of intellectuals and artists. It is worth mentioning, inter alia, her friendship with Immanuel Kant, the famous philosopher wykładającym at the University of Königsberg.(...) Both were at times philosophical debates and intimate conversation that inspired the philosopher to the hard intellectual work, and Louise motivated to further philosophical inquiry. The result was a book published in Berlin about the education of girls (Pädagogische Ideen, ed. 1793)*

Portrait fo Louise von Krockow by Angelica Kaufmann from Pädagogische Ideen, 1793

In this portrait Lousie wearing (I think) similarly dress (with combine a riding dress with fulness chemisette) as from dress of Tidens Tøj.

Portrait of a young woman by J.Georges  Baltz, c. 1800 © Cyfrowe Muzeum Narodowe

 A young woman wearing white muslin dress with black sash and gray - blue shawl. 

Portrait of young woman by unknown artist, 1799 - 1800, © Cyfrowe Muzeum Narodowe

 A beautiful black hair with turban is a classical example for regency fashion.

Portrait a young woman in white by unknown artist, 1790 © Cyfrowe Muzeum Narodowe

 Portrait is similar to Louise von Krockow but this lady is so young ( it seems) 

Potrait of woman in blue shawl (not fichu as described in web page) by  Edme Quenedey, 1797 © Cyfrowe Muzeum Narodowe 

 She wearing blue turban and white dress (round gown?) 

* My translation of these text are from here but it is only Polish. About the  Krockow residency you can see here and here .

Petticoat for round dress is finish

Tomorrow I finish high waist petticoat. All is hand made. It was very simple to modelled pattren and sewing it. I used some big scraps of cotton and sewing together with new (for me) mixed stitched - running stitch with back stitch. Here helped me post from Kleidung um 1800.  The back of the petticoat is tied to  cotton ribbons. The shoulder straps that are long in power depending on the needs lengthen or shorten them. The skirt has 5 tucks. It is very simple, classic and comfortable undress. 

Running and back stitched

Skirt and tucks

Waist and composition of pleats in back

 

 

Back: open and pleats

Detail of tied cotton ribbon (back)

Petticoat front

Petticoat back

Thank you !

 I am a nice surprise because my blog was annauced by Sabine from Kleidung um 1800 in followed award: 

I never thought that my blog can be rewarded in any way-for me it is more important that motivates the next projects and describe them on the blog. Thank you for all my followers !

Rules for this award:

1. Add the award icon to your blog!

2. Link to your nominater to say „thank you“

3. Nominate 5 blogger with less than 200 follower. 

My nominated blogs are:

1. It's all in the details - her 1812 sheer dress is so beautiful with the green corselet. 

2. Serendipitous Stitchery - her regency creations are beautifull and very inspiring, I like her accuracy in sewing costumes.

3. Muzealne Mody - this blog is a Polish man who writes about the history of fashion and his article are  comparative analyzes between old and contemporary fashion, which is very interesting for people who interested by in art history and fashion. 

4. Before the Automobile - a blog a very talented seemstres, she created  beautiful creations and has very useful instructions for historical sewing. 

5. Food History Jottings - if you like the food and its history this blog is for you, many interesting informations about culture of cooking from recipes to forgotten kitchen utensils.

 

Petitcoat for Round Gown

I never see any extant petitcoat for the chemise dress or round gown dated  late 18th century. Maybe it was sewn directly to the top of the dress? I find the high waist petticoat with shoulder straps and  has decided to sew these fashion after reading interesting post  from blog Two Nerdy History Girls. But I don't know it is extant petticoat or not and which musem is located or maybe is in private collection. 

Petticoat © Oregon Regency Society

Another petticoat from a Warsaw National Museum from the fashion catalog. This petticoat has a bodice and  was made ​​of Indian cotton gauze beautifully embroidered with white work. The petticoat dating from late 18th century or early 19th century. Now is very distroyed but still retained the shape, and it is possible to restore. 

In catalogue we can read about: 

The high - waisted chemise made of white Indian cotton gauze. The bodice is cut in four gored pieces [ I can see 4 gore, for me it is 3 gore two for the sides and one is triangular in the middle front bodice?]; it has a low - cut square neckline and narrow shoulders straps. The gored skir is trimmed at the hem with a pinked ruche of white silk satin. The gores of the bodice and skirt are emphaised with embroiderd floral spays. The front bodice and the skirt along the hem are embroidered with large floral motifs. 

© Fashionable World of the 18th century, Ewa Orlinska - Mianowska, MNW

 Chemise with no alterations and never exhibited.
I decided to sew two petticoats one with the bodice and one without. The bodice of round gown has a lining and I do not need a bodice petticoat but only with the straps.

1790 corset from Jill Salen's book

Yesterday I finished one of the two corset. Here is transitional corset from Jill Salen's book. It is my interpretation of this type of corset from late 18th century and the beginning of the 19th century. Corset was sewn entirely by hand. I have made a few changes here.
The top layer is white linen and next two layers is white cotton and cotton canvas (inside) and the linnins is beige cotton. I wanted to used some scraps. It was completely hand stitched with silk and cotton white thread. For lacing holes I used twisted thread. Bonnig has always been a problem - I used bamboo stick. My alterations is I changed the type of schoulder straples - It was sewing by hand without two lacing holes in front and I wanted corset with binding. I cannot understand how working non bias cutting tape binding on the edge of corset, so I must used bias cut tape. Jill Salen and Linda Baumgarten in her book Costume close -up both mentioned that in 18th century not exsiting yet bias cut. Corset will be wearing with the round gown and I wanted to sewing round gown from Tidens Tøj collection with a petticoat.

Front


Back

15th century bra discovered in Austria

Amazing information about the discovery of 15 century bra in Austria.
I think it changes the stories of the discovery of the same dress and bra stories. Whole story you can read on University of Innsbruck

W Austrii dokonano szczególnego odkrycia, a mianowicie znaleziono 4 staniki, które zostały znalezione w austriackim zamku datowane są na 15 wiek, co oznacza, że ten ubiór pojawił się 500 lat wcześniej niż dotychczas sądzono. Odkrycia dokonała archeolog z Uniwersytetu w Innsbruku - Beatriz Nutz. Więcej

Photo © Institute for Archaeologies and Beatrix Nutz

1790 corset from Norah Waugh Corsets & Crinolines

I have some new costumes plans. A few weeks ago I inspired of one of the best blogs about sewing costumes - Before the Automobile. I started to sew my first 18th century corset. It is my exercise sewing" corset. For me construction and sewing corset is not easy but it will be pleasure when the whole corset I can wearing.
Wakacje sprzyjają szyciu i rysowaniu. Nowe plany śmigają jak szybowce i nie wiadomo za które się wziąć. Na początek jak zwykle bielizna, do której zaliczam też gorsety. Zaczynam od projektu gorsetu 1790 roku z książki Nory Waugh Corsets & Crinolines. Konstrukcja i szycie ręczne bardzo męczące ale za to jest możliwość poznawania technik szycia i konstrukcji.